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Trying to build a DIY reliable waterproof cover that will protect the cam even if it falls in water - without effecting the clarity of photos taken using the cover ( I do a lot of rafting & kayaking) and if there is one thing that scares me that is the fear of damaging my Sony DSC H2 ![]() Its my life
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Nikon D80 , Nikkor AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR ; Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED : Believe in everything but Trust no One My Travelog |
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I tried doing something similar. I started by gluing a ring adapter to a piece of glass then gluing the remains of a rain coat around it.
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Canon 20D W/ 430EX Flash, 50mm F1.8 and 17-40mm F4L Lens Bail on Flickr, Deviant Art (Friend me!) |
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Here's a link to a DIY beauty dish:
http://www.imageguy.com/make-your-own-beauty-dish/ I found it via strobist: http://davidtejada.blogspot.com/2008...or-sb-800.html Also: http://www.diyphotography.net/studio...iy-beauty-dish
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inaGoodLight.com |
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I recently modified my Vivitar 2800 flash to have variable power output by adding a 100k potentiometer to it. The details are described below (please check my flickr page for any future changes to the description and any additional photos).
![]() Part One: 1. Use a fine blade or screwdriver to remove the plastic "cap" (black cirle with blue ring- not shown) that was originally where the red cap now is. Remove the screw and white plastic grommet that are under this. 2. Remove the top part of the flash- you may need to remove the two screws circled in red. 3. Remove the four screws in the hotshoe and remove it. 4. Gently separate the front and rear sections of the flash. 5. Go to Part Two. ![]() Part Two: 6. The disassembled flash unit is shown in "ONE", together will the newly soldered cable to the photo diode. You will need to use thin wire, no thicker than the existing wire in the flash. I replaced the white cable shown with thinner wire at a later stage. 7. Gently pull out the bottom PCB as far as you can. 8. Solder a cable to left and right connections of the photo diode as shown in "TWO". These wires should be about 15cm in length- they need to be long enough to feed up the side of the flash as indicated by the red dotted line in "ONE". 9. The other side of this PCB is shown in THREE. 10. Now comes the messy part. Using a soldering iron or the tool of your choice, make a ) shaped hole in the top side of the upper flash unit. The outer part is shown in photo "FOUR"- you will need to make a similar hole in the inner part (not shown). This hole needs to be long enough to allow the cables to move freely when the upper part of the flash is angled when using the flash. (The following part may be amended later). 11. Feed the newly soldered wires alongside the existing wires, feeding it through the holes in the PCBs and refit the lower PCB. 12. Feed the wires through the new hole in the upper inner part of the flash head and reassemble the flash unit. 13. Take a 100k miniature potentiometer (mine is linear; I may try a log one later; a 250k potentiometer may be better but I don't have one) and snip off the prongs. 14. Solder the new wires to the centre and right terminals of the potentiometer (the underside of the potentiometer). 15. Push the wires back into the flash head and glue the potentiometer to the centre of the part shown in photo "FOUR". 16. Dtrill a 6mm hole in the centre of a cap that fits over the circular moulding shown in photo FOUR (I used the lid from a milk carton- the red cap shown in the other photo). Push it over the spindle of the potentiometer (cut the spindle to length prior to soldering the wires to it) and tighten up the washer/ nut. 17. Attach a knob to the spindle. 18. Test it. You have a 50% chance of turning the knob clockwise will increase the power output. If it reduces the power output, unsolder and reverse the wires on the back of the potentiometer (you did leave enough slack to do this didn't you?). I think that covers it- please correct me if I've made mistakes, missed out a step or if it's unclear (I need to upload a missing photo). I will also be trying out a smaller sub-miniature potentiometer at a later date. Total cost of this flash and mod was £4.85: Flash: £3.21 (fleabay) Knob: 94p Potentiometer: 70p Plastic cap and wire: free.
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inaGoodLight.com |
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I don't know if any of you have heard of this before, but someone just told me about a DIY Macro Lens
I haven't tried it yet, but this is what he said: Quote:
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Gear: Nikon D80, Nikon D300s, Sony Cybershot W7, Canon G12 | Nikkor 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 AF, Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AF, 50mm f1.8 MF, Nikkor 70-300mm f4.5-5.6 AF VR, Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 AF, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 AF, Nikkor 35mm f1.8 | SB-600 Speedlight Online Galleries: Website | Facebook | Picasa |
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I got tired of using saran wrap, plastic bags, and the AW cover from my Lowepro camera bag which I cut off the bag, to try to keep my camera dry during those on and off rain days we get so much of here, and free of beach scum.
I kept looking for something that would work better, and be easier to keep handy for wet situation. Then I thought about a shower curtain. I had an old one laying around, and poured water in it. It never leaked a drop. My parents came up for Thanksgiving, and my Mom brought her sewing machine. The one she made me is all one piece of cloth, and velcro. She sewed velcro around the end of the lens area, so it can be adjusted for different size lens hoods. Along the bottom of the lens is a full strip of velcro, so I can close it all the way or leave a section open for a tri/monopod, and to get my hand in if I'm using a variable focal length lens. The area where it meets the camera body is closed up with velcro too. I had her leave it long around the camera body, so it would be loose enough to get my hands in. It's actually long enough to cover your head when looking thru the view finder. I'm still thinking about cutting a hole in it, and adding a heavy piece of clear plastic, so I can see the view finder with out lifting it up. It's not very pleasing to look at, but I'd feel safe shooting in a light rain. Plus it will fit in my pocket.
Last edited by WooD; 11-28-2008 at 09:24 AM. |
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this is a great design, or looks like it is. Can you share any photos of what it looks like off the camera? Maybe completely opened and laying flat? I do quite a bit of sewing, and would like to see the basic shape of this one. How is it working out for you?
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flickr |
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I think my wife might have got it at Bed Bath and Beyond, but I'm not sure. I was going to try the clear vinyl type, but like you said it was too stiff. This material isn't even as thick as a cotton t-shirt, and about as soft. If you hold it up to a light you can see thru it. All it is is some kind of light weight cloth with a silicon type coating on one side. I havn't had a chance to try it out yet. Figures I'd make it, and we would have perfect weather.
Last edited by WooD; 12-06-2008 at 12:13 AM. |
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