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I'm trying to put together a studio lighting setup for home use. Currently, this is what I'm looking at: A Possible Studio Light Setup @ brandonmartinez.com.
I’d like to use them for a small home-studio setup, primarily for portraits; I’d like it somewhat portable, since I don’t have a lot of room in my house (I’d have to accommodate, then teardown), and on occasion I’d like to take the setup elsewhere. Eventually, I’d also like to use them outdoors (using a power-pack or really long extension cord) for outdoor portraits. Any suggestions on what I've put together would be great. Thank you! |
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I use AlienBees regularly and would recommend them highly.
Suggestions: I would consider getting one B400 and one B800. IME, in a small studio the minimum output of the B800 can sometimes be more light than I would prefer. A B400 allows you one extra stop of flexibility. (And I rarely want two lights at full power and the same power). I'd consider getting a set of wireless triggers like the Cactus V5 or Yongnuo. Optical triggers usually work, but "usually" drives me crazy. You can go corded, but then you have to manage a cord while moving around the studio. That drives me crazier. Those general purpose light stands look a bit light-duty for a huge modifier like the big PLM. I'd strongly recommend that you add either a heavy-duty stand or some sandbags for stability. When you decide to expand your lighting suite, the Paul Buff softboxes are very nice. (Just in case you want an unsolicited testimonial. )
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If the B400 puts out an adequate amount of light, is there a reason to not get two (opposed to the one and a B800)? Any examples? Last edited by brandonmartinez; 01-05-2012 at 03:14 AM. Reason: Forgot to quote |
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I use Alienbees as well, and highly recommend them.
I find the reflective umbrella to be a bit harsh...great for fill, but not what I like to use for a main. Take a look at the Softlighter II. I have the 60", and it works great. At full power on my Alienbees B400, I get f5.6, ISO100, at about 5 feet. A B800 would get you about f8 at the same distance. And the best part is, it only costs about $80. Agree with the above with the wireless triggers. The only downside is they take batteries, so it's nice to have the hotshoe adapter as a backup. |
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![]() I was looking into the Softlighter II as you suggested, and it looks really slick. Should I drop the two umbrellas here and go with that one? As for the wireless system, I think I'll go wired for now and wait until I have some extra cash to pickup the wireless system; does this require transceivers/receivers on each flash? Thanks again for everyone's help! Last edited by brandonmartinez; 01-05-2012 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Added note about wireless |
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I used shoot-through for a while, but wasn't a fan of the spill (i.e. light going where you don't want it to). For instance, if you are shooting a subject with a black background in a tight room, you're going to have a lot of uncontrolled light. I also typically have the light close to the subject, and was having a little problem with flare (especially when I would forget my lens hood).
That's kind of why I like the other modifiers...light only goes one direction. But to each his own...there's really not a right or wrong answer when it comes to light modifiers. Each has their good and bad, and use will depend a lot on the situation. As for the flash units, it doesn't matter if you have different ones. I only have one Alienbees right now (getting a second one soon), and usually use a Canon 580exII for the fill light (and sometimes a 430exII for a hairlight or backdrop light). Any flash will work...I like the Alienbees because of the modelling light, fast recycle times, and no batteries. The hard part with different flash units and modifiers is getting the ratio right on the subject, especially if you don't have a light meter. Last edited by Photoboothguy; 01-05-2012 at 02:06 PM. |
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Also, do you have any examples you could share? |
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For the work I do, I could get away with B400s for almost everything (we have two B800s and two B400s). But that's mostly product work, and the lights are normally quite close to the subject. I'm hardly ever above 1/4 power on any of my lights and I normally shoot in the 1/32-1/8 power range for key lights using the B800s. Having one of each gives you an extra stop of flexibility, but it's your call whether you need it.
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