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Zoom lenses for DSLRs do not focus as close as a "macro" on a P&S camera.
For that you need a macro lens. The 18-135 is fine for night shots (in cities and using high ISO), and ok for everywhere else if you are shooting on a tripod. However if you are shooting hand held in low light then you will need a fast lens of an aperture of around F2 preferably - that means a prime. The focal length will depend on your subject. What were you wanting to shoot at night?. Good bokeh (depending on the background and light) may cost $$$. What sort of budget do you have.
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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Thank you for such a fast reply.
By night shots it's mostly the city, buildings/street lights, fireworks, lightning, moon, etc. I'm okay with an average bokeh. I was testing out I think the 18 - 55mm kit lens and I was happy with the bokeh. Can the 18 - 135mm do a similar bokeh or better? I'm just a beginner and I'll probably take time before I buy more/better lenses. Right now more than primes, I'd prefer to invest in a zoom lens of upto at least 200mm range. Well, my budget isn't all that much. I think I can spare about 2000$ for camera + 2 lenses. I can aim for slightly more if required but preferably I'd like to stay in this range or under. I'm sure I saw a zoom lens with macro settings. But it might have been a sigma lens. Any ideas? |
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With your budget I think you should chose cityscapes or macro, one or the other, for the time being until you can afford a good second lens (or third counting the 18-135). For cityscapes I'd go something wide like the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 (which would keep you in your budget). If you decided you wanted to use your kit lens, the 18-135, for cityscapes and wanted to go the macro route, I'd get the EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens which will again keep you within your budget.
On a side note, with your mention of night photography, you'll want to make sure you have a good tripod and possibly look into getting a remote trigger as well. Hope this helps. Tyler |
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On the macro zooms. The word "macro" is used very loosely as a marketing term.
See this DPS rgread. 'Macro' = 1:1 ?? What does this really mean
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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If you get the EF-S 18-135 IS or the EF 18-200 IS, you probably don't need to get the EF-S 55-250 IS. The 55-250 is generally for folks who get the 18-55 and then need more reach, don't want to spend much, and don't mind changing lenses. If you really do need more telephoto reach, you'd probably be better off saving for an EF 70-300 IS USM or EF 70-200 f/4L USM. The superzooms like the 18-135 and 18-200 are more convenient, but the 18-55/55-250 combo has more reach, costs less if you get the 18-55 kitted with the camera, and has slightly better image quality, because the smaller zoom ranges on the lenses makes it easier to design lenses with fewer image quality compromises in terms of distortion and chromatic aberration (no such thing as a free lunch).
If you need an all-in-one lens solution (e.g., for travel), then a superzoom is a great solution. But SLR lenses are typically best as special-purpose tools, and being able to change lenses is one of the biggest advantages of the system. As everyone else is saying, for macros, you'll need a macro lens. And a true macro lens that magnifies 1:1 will always be a prime (fixed focal length), not a zoom; most typically they're 100mm f/2.8 lenses. Wait on this one, use your P&S in the meantime, and consider a few of the poor man's macro tricks like extension tubes or lens reversal after you get an EF 50mm f/1.8 II. For "good bokeh" (cheap), well, that's generally why folks buy the EF 50mm f/1.8 II. The 18-135 IS is a great kit lens and pretty much does what the 18-55 does, but with a longer range. However, it is a slow consumer-grade lens. Its maximum aperture is relatively small. While you can use it for nightshots of cityscapes, trying to get clear pics of moving subjects in low light is going to be tougher.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 08-18-2011 at 06:19 PM. |
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I guess macro isn't that important but I'll definitely look into your suggestion. If I had to choose I'd probably go for a macro lens over a wide lens. Perhaps it's because I am not so much into architecture and I don't know what I'm missing with a wide lens? lol. By the way, do these lenses have autofocus? Thank you so much for responding. ![]() Quote:
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Not sure if it sounds silly to get the 18 - 135mm. I had borrowed a nikon dslr for a bit and I felt quite happy with the 18 - 135mm kit lens in terms of being able to take portrait as well and zoom shots. I liked the wide range and not having to change lenses very often which is why I am seriously interested in this specific lens for canon as well. Occasionally, I do need more reach. I was looking into the 70 - 200mm lens. There are more than 1 kind so it makes it hard to choose. I would prefer the IS one but they all seem pricey. What do you think of the sharpness of the 70 - 300mm lens vs the 70-200mm ones? You also mentioned the 18 - 200mm lens. How would it compare to getting the 18 - 135mm and then the 70 - 200mm apart from saving money? Pros/cons? For the bokeh, I can not get a decent one with my P&S. My "dream" is to shoot a bokeh of lights with those beautiful circles. It's silly perhaps which is why any lens that can get a decent affect, I'll probably be happy with. lol. I'm actually seriously confused over the choices vs budget. Regarding getting clear shots in low light of fast moving objects, how would the 70 - 200mm fair? Know of any website that does good lens reviews for beginners? |
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Assuming you're looking at the lowest-cost f/4 non-IS version, it's going to do better than the 70-300 IS USM, and it's going to smoke the EF-S IS lenses (18-135, 18-200, 55-250), none of which have USM. Quote:
I'd also highly HIGHLY recommend reading this basic guide to lenses. It describes the basic features of lenses and what they mean in practical shooting terms. Maximum aperture in particular is worth learning about. Quote:
A lens hood shades the front of the lens, which can eliminate glare and increase contrast. It also provides physical protection to the front of the lens, as most lenses are clip/screw-on types made of rigid plastic. The little add-on rubber shades you see where you screw them onto the filter threads at the end of the lens don't protect much, and only give a small amount of shade. Generally, the longer the lens is, the more useful a hood becomes. The wider the lens is, the shallower the lens has to be not to impinge on the frame, so it shades and protects the lens's front element less. Also, bumping? NOT really going to make anybody answer who wasn't going to before. Give it at least 24 hours before nudging a thread. Everybody else has stuff to do, too. If you're that impatient, google it yourself.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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