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Equipment: Canon EOS Rebel XS, 18-55mm, 50mm prime, 55-250mm. Software used for PP: Photoshop CS5 Join Dropbox and get 2GB free online storage space to share files between computers, tablets, smart phones, etc. http://db.tt/X4pirer |
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Are you saying you went from cr2>Jpg, then opened and worked on the jpg in PS, then saved the jpg again.?
Why not open the cr2 in DPP, then click send to Photoshop, work on the tiff, then save jpg when it's done. The more you open, manipulate, and save jpgs, the worse they get.
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----------------------------------------- Canon T1i 18-35mm, 50mm, 28mm, 100-500mm and some other stuff. Please don't read my blog! |
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No, actually. I didn't reprocess the JPG image. "And don't try that at home kids!"
The original CR2 (straight from the Canon) was brought into DPP converted to monochrome and saved as JPG (Exif-JPEG (the only jpeg option), image quality 10 (max), 350 dpi, no resize) and saved as a the JPG you see. The same original CR2 (straight from the Canon) was brought into PSD, desaturated into monochrome via ACR 6.4.1 and saved as JPG image quality 10 (max), no resize. I've tried this on several images and it is pretty consistent. DPP's JPG conversion pretty much sucks. Can anyone try this?
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Canon 60D, G12, Leica V-LUX 20, Canon 10-22mm EF-S f/3.5-4.5, 18-135mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS, 100mm EF f/2.8 Macro, 15-85mm EF-S f3.5-5.6 IS, 50mm EF f1.4, 70-200mm EF f2.8L IS II, Kenko tubes, Satechi WR-C100 Wireless Remote, B+W Filters, Gitzo monopod, Sunpak 623px tripod, Sunbounce mini micro reflector, Colormunki Photo, DPP, PSD, Pixma Pro9000 Mark II, MAC, WIN. |
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Sorry I don't have an answer to your question, but why are you going from CR2 to jpeg? You would be better off going to TIFF or PSD and only converting to jpeg when uploading to the web.
I would also recommend sticking with ACR if you do have it. |
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download a trial of lightroom and run it through the noise reduction slider. Get rid of the noise in the RAW file, do your contrast, and BW conversion in LR, then do the rest as a TIFF file.
Just a thought. You have a tight crop on what likes like a obscure corner stage rig. Are you being relistic in trying to get everything perfect. |
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Don't know about being realistic. But, the observation startled me. IMO, artifacts are artifacts and are on some level perceptible to the eye - even with a full size image. I would think it is an issue for some photographers. For those who don't use a medium format camera and have to eek out as much quality as possible from a little ASP-C sensor to be competitive. (I am not a Pro, BTW).
I did not think to manually change the DPP Jpeg value from 10 to 12 - I'll try that. Personally, I liked DPP for all it's features. But, that engine made me think twice. I've had PSD since the original version (and now CS5 with the latest ACR) and know it well. However, for my workflow process, DPP could become my mainstay program (if this issue can be resolved). Thanks guys.
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Canon 60D, G12, Leica V-LUX 20, Canon 10-22mm EF-S f/3.5-4.5, 18-135mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS, 100mm EF f/2.8 Macro, 15-85mm EF-S f3.5-5.6 IS, 50mm EF f1.4, 70-200mm EF f2.8L IS II, Kenko tubes, Satechi WR-C100 Wireless Remote, B+W Filters, Gitzo monopod, Sunpak 623px tripod, Sunbounce mini micro reflector, Colormunki Photo, DPP, PSD, Pixma Pro9000 Mark II, MAC, WIN. |
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What a shame. DPP does not allow you to choose the level of compression when saving as a jpeg. 10 is the max.
I'm using the lastest upgrade of DPP - version 3.10.20 So, the rule is: "never save as a jpeg in DPP"
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Canon 60D, G12, Leica V-LUX 20, Canon 10-22mm EF-S f/3.5-4.5, 18-135mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS, 100mm EF f/2.8 Macro, 15-85mm EF-S f3.5-5.6 IS, 50mm EF f1.4, 70-200mm EF f2.8L IS II, Kenko tubes, Satechi WR-C100 Wireless Remote, B+W Filters, Gitzo monopod, Sunpak 623px tripod, Sunbounce mini micro reflector, Colormunki Photo, DPP, PSD, Pixma Pro9000 Mark II, MAC, WIN. |
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