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PocketWizard, Cactus, radio poppers, just about any will work with it.
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[Body] Nikon d3100 | [Glass] Nikon 18-55mmVR | Nikon AF-S 55-200 | Nikon 35mm 1.8 AF-S [Flash] Nikon SB600 | [Other] Sears 28mm f2.8 | Nikon 50mm f1.8 E | Tokina 80-200 f/4 | |
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Of the RF eTTL triggers, RadioPopper PXs are right out. They require that the flash actually does the CLS thing, which the LP160 doesn't. The PocketWizard TTLs probably will work, but you'd probably be better off with Plus IIs. Of the IR triggers...well, I'm not sure I'd recommend using the LP160 in a mixed manual/iTTL type setup where you're trying to trigger with IR and RF simultaneously, nor in one where you're trying to mix CLS and "dumb" optical triggering. (Then again, I am a Canon shooter, and have no experience with mixing this kind of gear together.) The LP160 is supposed to be able to ignore pre-flashes from a CLS/iTTL setup, but reports are mixed on success with this function. You're probably better off going all "dumb" optical triggers (i.e., su-4 mode in the SB-800/SB-900, "S" mode on a SB-26, etc. or an optical slave on the sync port), or all CLS. Just don't expect it to be as straightforward as picking a slave mode on the LP160. You may have to do a little jiggering about with settings to find what works. Also, whether or not the LP160 is going to contribute to the pre-flash burst for the metering is also in doubt. Using CLS with all the flashes in Manual mode seems a cleaner way of doing things. The trick I use when I'm using an eTTL setup (the Canon equivalent to CLS), with my SB-26 in "dumb" optical slave mode, is to set the power on the SB-26 to 1/2 or lower. It then recycles quickly enough to recover from the preflash pulse to contribute to the main flash burst. But I have no idea if this will work with the LP160.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Thanks inkista. Being a stroob (strobe noob)
a lot of that jargon was over my head. I got the basic idea on which triggers would work for me. The Pocket Wizards are out of the question. Too much $$. My budget is under $100. My ultimate goal is to simply have a flash fire remotely when I press the shutter button...baby steps. I like the freedom the wireless offers an don't want to be limited by cord length.
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If that's the case, my first recommendation to you would be to not get triggers just yet, but simply see if the LP160's optical slave will do what you need. For indoors setups, it should be awesome, as long as you remember to maintain line of sight (i.e., make sure the slave sensor can "see" your pop-up flash), and set your pop-up flash to Manual.
While most Strobist shooters eventually move to radio triggers, you can do a lot and learn a lot with simple optical slaves. And bonus--you can do this with cameras that don't have hotshoes (i.e., P&S cameras). When/if the optical slave starts to be too limiting (you want to hide the flash behind objects, or set them up behind the camera, then I'd say consider getting Cactus V5s. Stroob. I like stroob.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 05-10-2011 at 10:08 PM. |
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