Filters?

[Andreas - 16th Ave]

I have been looking at ND filters and polarizing filters lately, and I understand somewhat what they do, but I don't really know what to get though. Something that I don't really understand is the 'stops' and it seems like the cheapest filters are something like 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9?

Let's say, if I wanted to take a picture with a long exposure (couple of seconds) of a waterfall should I go for the 0.3 or 0.6 or 0.9? - Again, I am a beginner and I just want to try it out and not spend too much money on it yet. - and I know it depends on what time of the day it is too,

I don't have any experience with PP so I wouldn't be able to just 'fix' it in photoshop (yet).

Do you have any suggestions on what to get and what not to get? - Have you ever heard of Bower? They're really cheap and maybe they'd be worth starting out with?

Here's a link to a cheap little set:
Amazon.com: Bower 58MM Digital Hi Resolution UV Cpl ND4 Filter Set f/ Digital and Video Cameras - Bower VFK58C: Electronics

Oh, by the way, I only have a kit lens (Canon EF-S 18-55mm - ring size 58mm) because I bought my very first DSLR in December 2010, so would it even be worth buying filter yet until I get another and better lens (which might have a bigger or smaller ring size too?)

Just a little opinion or thought would be awesome! Thank you!

[corvus2606]

I would suggest getting a really good grasp of all of the manual functions of your camera before looking into light modifiers, they just add complexity to the process and could potentially turn you off photography.

learning about exposure in full will give you an understanding of what stops mean, and you will learn to judge which filter is best for your needs in each image. Specifically learning about the exposure triangle will help you on your way, see here

here is another lesson on exposure, and covers the basics of stops

alternately, if you just want to get into it, I use a 0.5 stop nd filter which can yield some good results, the darker you go, the longer your exposure will be and the more ghostly your waterfall will look. I like to use a 2-3 second exposure.

[Andreas - 16th Ave]

@ corvus2606

Thank you very much! You're probably right, and it sounds like it would be a good idea to just learn about exposure completely - but as I was reading your post I think I realized something.

I know that when we're talking about f-stops it's about the apertue. Full f-stops etc. and so when we're talking about stops regarding filters it's the exact same thing just "skipping" a few because the filter makes the exposure darker right? If that's the case, how do you know how many stops one 'skips'? .. Does a 0.3 filter skip three full? Three 1/4s? How does this work? (and how about 0.6? Just doubled or?)

Thank you! You're probably right, and I will read more about exposure and maybe finish this book that I bought on that too.

I actually started 'shooting' in manual and TV and AV modes a week after I got my camera because that was the reason I bought my DSLR - because I knew it would give me a much greater understanding of exposure.

And I'd say I shoot more in TV and AV, but when I'm 'playing around' I shoot manual the majority of the time. - But something that would be a good idea would probably be to start paying attention to what the camera set's either the shutter speed or aperture to so I can get a greater understanding of their relation.

Thank you very much for your post, I'll probably just read and learn more about exposure before making it more complicated.

[Krusty79]

I paid $90 for a Lee graduated neutral density filter. I don't know why all the manufacturers don't just call their filters a 2 stop or 3 stop filter. For Lee, .6 means a two stop filter. .9 is a 3 stop filter. Go figure. So, it reduces the light at the top of my image by two f stops. The pros on this site say you get what you pay for, so I paid the $90. Cheaper filters can degrade your image quality.

I am using a cheap polarizer on my kit lens now also because I am hesitant to spend over $100 for a good B+H multicoated polarizer on this lens. I use my ND grad way more than my polarizer now that I try to shoot a lot more in the golden hours.

I have never heard of Bower and I heard you should avoid Cokin ND filters because they are actually grey, not neutral.

[LeeR]

Filters are an interesting topic these days. For one thing, PP has eliminated the need for a lot of them. Many of the things we used to do with filters can now be done with much greater flexibility in post. That means that, at least in the beginning, we should concentrate on filters that cannot be duplicated with software after the fact. ND filters can be very handy, especially the graduated type. Split image filters have their place, as do star cross filters. But there is one I think everyone should have (at least everyone shooting outdoors) and that's a polarizing filter. It takes a bit of practice to learn where they will be most effective but they have the power to turn a dull and uninspiring sky into a work of art; well worth the bucks to get a good one. Just be careful, some digital metering systems will not work properly when using a standard polarizer and you may be required to get a circular polarizer. A little research could save you some money.

[nemesis256]

I would suggest getting a circular polarizer and a 0.9 neutral density filter. The polarizer is very useful for reducing reflections of wet rocks, which are common around waterfalls. They also have the positive side effect of increasing your shutter speed by about two stops. On an overcast day, or if the sun is blocked by thick foliage, the polarizer might be all you need. If you do need to increase your shutter speed some more, you can then put a neutral density filter on top of the polarizer. Do be aware though that this may cause vignetting on some wide angle lenses.

[Krusty79]

The one thing you have to be careful about using a polarizer is that on wide angle shots, it can produce a gradient in the sky. Also, I've learned that you don't always have to dial it in for maximum effect. You'll see the effect as you rotate the front element.