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I sell doll clothes online and am looking for a lens that would give me crisp clear product photos. A party suggested the 85mm telephoto f/1.8, or a 50mm f/1.8
Does anyone have an idea what they would use? |
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50mm f/1.8 on a tripod, set to f/5.6, lowest possible ISO.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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IMHO, what you probably want is the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 USM Macro or EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro (the non-L). Both are in the $400-$500 range.
Doll clothes are small, and even if you're doing Dollfie stuff, you're going to want to show detail shots. The 85/1.8 USM is a good lens, but its minimum focus distance is 2'8". The 50/1.8 won't let you get particularly close, either. You're also probably going to want to think about lighting gear, and at least a DIY light tent.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 02-17-2011 at 07:10 PM. |
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Osmosis: thanks for the reply. I have another question since I am new to all of this. Would I use AV or TV settings? Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I really would like to get this worked out, and understand a bit better.
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Are you sure that RRM has a crop sensored body?
My personal recommendation would be an EF50/2.5 compact macro. It'll get you close enough and capture all the detail. I'd use AV at around f/8 if your clothes are on model dolls (ie, 3 dimensional) but you could get away with f/4 if you intend to shoot them flat. Sorry to add to the confusion. Bob |
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Well, that's why I also said "... or the EF 100mm f/2.8 USM".
![]() Quote:
I may be overthinking this, given how often my Takara Jenny collector friend makes me admire tiny little plastic shoes and purses and doll jewelry and...
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Ah: Doll clothes. then yes, something in the macro range would be best.
As far as AV or TV: use AV, set to f/5.6. The camera will choose the shutterspeed it needs. For best results, use a 2s timer as well.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Since we're talking Canon, a tripod, cable release, and mirror lock-up wouldn't go amiss either. You can turn on mirror lock-up in the camera's custom functions. Don't forget to turn it off when you're done, though, otherwise you'll be wondering why you have to keep pressing the shutter twice to take any shot and why your viewfinder keeps going black.
![]() The tripod lets you use slower shutter speeds without introducing camera shake. Make sure you get a good sturdy one. You should expect to pay three figures for a good tripod. Cheaper ones might work, though. A cable release and mirror lock-up are to eliminate tiny amounts of shake that can be caused by pushing the shutter button and the mirror box "slap" when you take the shot. This is more important with macro photography because when you shoot at a smaller scale the shake can get exaggerated and affect your image more than with non-macro shots.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Quote:
In short the closer you go the steadier you need to be. PS. has anybody mentioned a focus rail yet? Very handy for shooting macro on a tripod.
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Andrew - My pics on Flickr Canon 7D, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, MP-E 65mm macro, TS-E 90mm, 100mm macro |
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I'd use my 90mm tilt/shift lens and some extension tubes but that's a lot more expensive than a regular macro lens like the 100mm. It's also a lot more complicated to use. It is very, very good though
![]() PS for the benefit of those that would point out that the it only does quarter lifesize and isn't a macro lens it gets pretty close to 1:1 with a full set of Kenko tubes on and the quality still surprises me, especially well stopped down.
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Andrew - My pics on Flickr Canon 7D, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, MP-E 65mm macro, TS-E 90mm, 100mm macro |
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