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I bought a Canon T2i with the 18-55mm f/3.5 kit lens several months ago, and have absolutely fallen in love with photography. I will be using this camera to take pictures of anything and everything, but want to focus more on portrait photography with the goal of hopefully someday making a side business out of it (I have a lot to learn before that will happen!)
I've read a lot of great things about the 50mm lenses and was originally planning on buying the 50mm 1.4. But since my camera has a crop factor of 1.6, this would be like using a 80mm lens, which to me, is totally different. Most of these reviews I've been reading come from photographers you use full frame cameras, so I'm thinking that this is totally different when your camera has a crop factor. So instead I've been thinking about a 35mm since it would act as a 56mm on my camera (with the 1.6 crop factor), but Canon only offers the 35mm f/2 ($319) or 35mm f/1.4L (about $1400) . There is a huge price difference between these 2 lenses, and I was leaning more towards the L series lens. It seems a little over the top to spend more on one lens though than I currently have in my entire camera. I feel like I have a pretty critical eye, but maybe I am too new to photography to even notice the difference between an awesome lens and just a good lens? I know that awesome lenses are expensive, and 35mm 1.4 seems like a lens that I still could use if I were to ever upgrade to a full frame camera... What are your opinions? I really want those large apertures so I can get those creamy, shallow depth of field pictures so I'm leaning more towards the prime lenses. Would the 35mm be a good choice of lens for my next lens (this is actually classified as a wide-angle lens) ? Then there is a totally different scenario...should I purchase a cheaper lens and invest in Photoshop or Lightroom? I currently only have iPhoto. I really want to focus on getting the exposure correct in camera so that I don't have to edit a lot. But with that said, Photoshop can definitely add that extra pop to an image...so would it be better to go ahead and purchase this and learn how to use it correctly? Sorry this is probably all over the place...just wanting to get some good advice and some other opinions. Thanks in advance! |
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However portraiture is not my goal and (effective) 80mm is not in my "needs" for a fast lens. Although it's going to cost me (a lot) more up front, I've decided on the move to full frame first. I already own an "L" lens (24-105) and like you, will probably spring for the 50 f/1.4 eventually. It has a stellar reputation as a sharp lens. FF offers much more than just MP and FL advantages. You'll get shallower DoF, sharper images, better color, more contrast, brighter viewing, etc.
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Chuck Canon 50D / 17-85 f4-5.6 / 24-105 f/4L (many more on the wish list), Nikon Coolpix L3 (always in my pocket), many other film cameras of various sizes ••flickr! |
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I am also in similar situation.
I have the 50mm lens 1.8 which is awesome value especially for shooting people. You will get the pop (bokeh) you are looking for. It is not good to walkaround because like you said it is 80mm. I still try to use that lens by walking back (people are wondering why I am shooting from 10 feet away, lol). So I am also looking for better lens. I started another thread asking for good walk around lens. I think you should first try the 50mm 1.8 first. Some like the 50mm 1.4 but the money saved here could go toward L series...
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Canon 550D Rebel T2i 18-55m Kit lens 55-200mm 50mm f/1.8 Nikon D5100 18-55mm kit lens 35mm F1.8 |
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@megdh525
Re the software; Photoshop can be a huge investment (I own CS4). Why not go midway and purchase Lightroom (I own LR3) or Photoshop Elements. You will probably use Light Room for a very long time and then latter on down the track add Photoshop for those occasional extra editing tasks (if you need to). Re 35mm lens. I own the Canon 35 F2 and use it mostly on a 5D and 40D for hand held low light shooting. If you want smooth creamy bokeh, especially the highlights, do not get this lens. See this review. Canon EF 35mm f/2.0 Lens Review From personal experience (I do own 4 L lenses), if you will be using 35mm a lot then go with the Canon 35mm F1.,4L (I don't own it) - You will never look back. 35mm on a full frame camera is a wide angle - on a 1.6 camera it is not.
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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Traditionally 80mm is called the portrait range for film and 50mm is a 'normal' lens. With APS-C the 50mm is a portrait and the 35mm is a normal. You are just starting out and the 50mm f/1.8 for any system is cheap. Just buy one and see if you like it. I think the Canon is around $100. Later when making money is on the horizon or you know execlty what it is you want then consider the crazy expensive lens. I am a very value conscious person so my tendancy is towards getting the best for your money.
You are likely going to want some sort of zoom and maybe an upgrade to your kit lens as well. If you blow your whole budget on one great lens you may find that it is not what you want and you'll be unable to buy anything more. For the $1400 that the 35mmL costs you should be able to get a fast 17-50 ish zoom (Tamron or Sigma), a slow 75-300 zoom with IS, a 50mm 1.4 and maybe even a flash. Some good lenses, an off camera strobe and a whole world of options for the same price. As for software, Canon includes a decent RAW converter, you can get several free and decent ones (look into open source) and Gimp. All will do the job well for free but if you want the standard get something Adobe. Again, you will likely not need full blown Photoshop. Just one of the lesser versions like was suggested above. Just my thoughts. If I had an unlimited budget I would buy a full compliment of Ziess lenses for my brand new full frame camera.
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Sony A100, Sony 18-70, Minolta 28-105xi, Sigma 70-210 APO. Kata 3N1-20 Canon Powershot SX20is Lots more to buy, no money to spend. Last edited by jml79; 01-10-2011 at 05:41 PM. |
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@cleamon
I'm not a student, so I can't get the student discount on Photoshop...And unfourtunately, I don't have the money now to make the jump to full frame camera. Maybe someday, but I think I'd rather invest in a good lens now instead of a different camera. @buzzrk I think I'd prefer the 50mm 1.4 over the 50mm 1.8, but I have a friend who has the 50mm 1.8 and I'm just not sold on the closeness with the 1.6 crop factor. I haven't played with it too much, but we did go out on a practice session together and I noticed that she had to back up a lot further than I did! Not sure I like that... @RichardTaylor Thanks for the link to that review. Definitely helpful. I think I can cross the 35mm f/2 off my list! I really wanted a larger aperture than f/2 anyways. I have thought about investing in Lightroom first instead of Photoshop. Does anybody know if it is possible to purchase an older version of Photoshop at a discounted rate? I thought I saw somewhere that you could, but looked at Adobe's website and couldn't find it. Maybe I missed it. Thanks everyone for your help! |
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@jml79
Definitely some good points about the value for the money. I'm having a hard time with the idea of spending that much on just 1 lens... but I've also heard that a lot of photographers say they can shoot with a 50mm lens all day. It does kind of stink to blow all my money on one thing though. Too bad photography is so expensive! |
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In the end I chose the 50mm 1.8 over the 50mm 1.4 because the IQ is very close to the same. With the 50mm 1.4 you are paying for build quality and better AF.
The 50mm lens is extremely useful and if you enjoy photography then the 50mm 1.4 is a great investment. I still do not regret buying the 50mm 1.8 as I used the extra money to save for a Canon EFS 10-22 ultra wide lens (which I am really enjoying now). |
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Read some of the articles on perspective. The 50mm is about perfect for portrait work. Many fashion photographers will use much longer. If you are too close to your subject, you can start to really distort things like the nose etc. A 35 mm should be long enough for full length shots and maybe half body shots but as soon as you want to get close and fill the frame with the head 35mm will start to distort and make things look off. A longer lens also has other advantages such as catching less of the background (the longer the lens the narrower the field of view) and helping blur the background. Bokeh is a function of both aperture and focal length. I have taken some beautiful bokeh shots using a long focal length (400mm eq in my P&S) at a relatively slow aperture like 5.6 just because the subject was well separated from the background.
I borrow an old Minolta 50mm right now and when I can't get it I use either my 70-210 @ 70mm & f/3.5 or my 28-105 @ 105 & f/4.5 and I still get usable bokeh because of the focal length. Try setting your kit lens to 35mm and taking some head shots. You should see what I mean about the distortion and you will be on top of your model. Zoom to 50mm and try the same. Ignore the amount of blur because your kit lens if just to slow to do this well. Spend a day walking around with your lens at each setting (don't adjust it at all) and see which lens will fit your daily needs better. Or maybe you will find that you want a normal zoom or a telephoto zoom as a walking lens. Here's some advice that a wise photog once gave me. If you want to do portrait work and studio work then lighting will be the best money you will ever spend. All of a sudden your slow lens doesn't matter and you are in control of the photography instead of the available light controlling you. I think there is a similar tidbit on the strobist blog as well.
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Sony A100, Sony 18-70, Minolta 28-105xi, Sigma 70-210 APO. Kata 3N1-20 Canon Powershot SX20is Lots more to buy, no money to spend. |
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