|
|||
|
Neutral density filters are usually marked with stop values (but not always)
For example, you could by a 2 stop or a 4 stop neutral density filter - that tells you how much you have to compensate the exposure for. So if you needed to make an exposure that would normally be 1/15th of a second, a 1 second exposure, you would need a 2 stop neutral density filter. The darker the filter - the longer you can make a given exposure. --- There are also graduated neutral density filters - these are a bit different, and only make part of the scene darker - they are used for balancing the sky with a landscape most often. (will take a bright sky and make it darker so it is easier to expose for the whole image. as for which you should buy - depends on what you want to do, sometimes you can stack ND filters as well. so a 1 and a 2 stop filter could give you 3 stops if you stack them.You can even buy a 10 stop filter if you need multiple hour long exposures. Last edited by ravncat; 12-13-2010 at 03:49 AM. |
|
|||
|
Well, it's somewhat obvious to say, but it depends on how bright a place is and how slow you want to make the shutter speed as to what ND filter is good.
But, that being said, in somewhat darker conditions you often dont really need an nd filter, just a small aperture will do it. In brighter conditions there are two common and useful filters (for me anyway) that I often use - an ND8 and an ND400 The 8 darkens things enough to allow slower shutter speeds of say 1 1/10th of a second in relatively bright light (which is slow enough to give running water enough of a blur to give it movement without it coming out like silky cloud) and the ND400 really darkens things down to allow for 30 second or more exposures in bright daylight. Which is great for removing people from the scene or for really interesting water/cloud effects. my 2c. |
|
||||
|
I have 2 ND filters: ND8 (3 stop) and ND1000 (10 stops).
I use the 3-stop fairly often to use larger apertures outdoors during the day (particularly with film), but the 10-stop is a special use filter for sure. It gives me 30s exposures at f/11, 100ISO in the middle of a bright sunny day. So it's sweet.
__________________
I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
|
|||
|
I almost opened a new thread asking the same question.... gotta love the search button.
![]() I was looking to find out what good choice for a first ND filter would be, and now I'm thinking that the ND-8 will be enough to get me a start. Thanks for the help.
__________________
Rick Canon 60D; EF-S 10-22 f3.5-f4.5 USM; EF-S 17-55 f2.8 USM; EF-S 60mm f2.8 Macro; EF100mm f2.8 L IS Macro USM; EF 70-200 f4 L IS USM |
|
||||
|
You can also get vari-ND filters that work sort of like circular polarizers. They have two elements, and you twist to adjust the darkness.
__________________
JamieDePould.com + OneYearPhoto.com Nikon D300, D700, Sony NEX5n Zeiss 2/25; 1.4/50; 1.4/85 Please read the rules before posting a critique thread. Rules here. |
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
Information's pretty thin stuff unless mixed with experience. Clarence Day |
|
||||
|
If you want a ND filter to do long exposures, it sounds like you do not want the graduated type, which is used to decrease the brightness of the sky relative to the ground. If you do not have a circular polarizer yet, you could use that to reduce the light by 1-3 stops. If you wants those really long shutter speeds, you'll need a ND filter.
Here is another related thread - Screw-on filters or rectangular filter system?
__________________
GREG - Canon XS with 18-55 kit flickr flickriver My 500px "You can't be young forever, but you can always be immature." - Larry Andersen. |
|
|||
|
A lot of people will get a set- usually a 1, 2 and 4 stop ND filter set - as that lets you combine them to get 1-7 stops... but I must confess- I only have an nd 4 and a grad nd 2 - I've found I can get away with alot that way... my polarizer filter factor can add to that if needed...
I don't use them nearly as much as I should - I must be getting lazy |
|
||||
|
I have a 10 stop that I love. Its great for long exposures of moving water on a bright day. It is also wonderful for taking long shots of tourist attractions and making the people vanish.
__________________
Nikon D700, D300, D5000, NIKON GLASS 85mm F/1.8 D, 105mm f/2.8 Micro AF-S VR, 70-200 AF-S VR f/2.8, 28-300 AF-S VRII,10.5mm Fisheye, 24-70 AF-S f/2.8, TC-20E II AF-S, Sigma 12-24 HSM, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM, Sigma 150-500 OS, 2 SB-600 Speedlights, Manfrotto 190MF3 tripod & 322RC2 ball grip head. - NJ, USA Flickr Photobucket Ok to edit and repost my shots on DPS forums |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Each day we send out a quick email to thousands of DPS readers to notify them of updates. This email is just short excerpt of the first few lines of our latest post with a link if you want to read it all. You can unsubscribe from this this service at any time.
This service is provided by a third party (Feedburner) and you can subscribe to it by leaving your email address in the following field and confirming your subscription when you get an email asking you to do so.
Enter your email address for
Daily Updates:
For those wanting a weekly summary of what happens on this site this free email newsletter is probably your best option. It includes a summary of the tips posted to the site each week. This newsletter is subscribed to by over 25000 readers (many who also subscribe to the other options above) - come join the community!
To subscribe to this weekly newsletter simply add your email address to the following field and then follow the confirmation prompts. You will be able to unsubscribe at any time.
Enter your email address for
Free Weekly Newsletter: