how to use a infrared filter??

[twistedclocks]

Deleted by user.

[OsmosisStudios]

IR filters on standard dSLRs are VERY dark, and for a simple reason: the purpose of an IR filter is to block the visible spectrum of light and only allow the IR portion of light to hit the sensor. So, effectively, it's blocking almost all light. Yours is particularly strong at 950nm, most are 720: that means you get even less light.

Without modifying the camera to be IR-only, you're going to be looking at some very very long exposures. Think 15+ seconds.

As for setting up a shot: set your composition without the filter on, focus (though IR focuses differently: read up on that) and THEN put the filter on. Use a low ISO and set the shutterspeed to something long. You can also set the aperture if you want: shallow or deep, depending on what you're shooting. Generally IR is used on landscapes because of the long exposures necessary, so f/8 to f/11 is the norm.

[LeeR]

I have an advanced point and shoot that I was about ready to give away when I realized it had a wonderful feature; the LCD would show me an image even with the IR filter on. (Prior to this all my IR shots were done as explained above; compose the image, then put the filter on.) Your sensor can 'see' the IR image even though you can't so you can do it either way, but having the IR image visible on the LCD screen was a huge help. How can you tell if your LCD will see IR? Have someone aim your TV remote at the camera while you watch the LCD. If you see the little light flashing, you're good to go.

[RLucas]

You may want to check it with a TV remote first before you waste your time with it. Have someone point the tv remote at the camera and push a button while you take a picture. If you see a red light emitted from the remote, your camera is good for IR. The newer cameras like the D3000, and the D5000, have a better filter on the CCD, which does a better job of blocking out IR frequencies, so you may not get the results you are looking for.
I have an IR modified D70, and far as metering goes, it still works, but you do have to use a little compensation.
Also as OS stated, the focusing is completly different. There are no IR marks or distance scales on newer lenses, so you may have to trial and error that situation by taking photos using the hyperfocal technique, and tweak it from there.

Good luck with it!

[OsmosisStudios]

Originally Posted by twistedclocks

thankyou everyone for your replies

i should probably try the 720 seeing as i'm not even sure how well my camera will operate with the filter as i tried the remote trick and didnt get much and i thought i got some light coming through expect it was greenish ?? so that doesnt sound too good for me

anyone with a Nikon D3000 ever tried infrared photography?

The 720 wont be noticeably any "lighter". It just allows a wider gamut of IR light in.

Also keep in mind that the colours you see in IR images are all fake: you cant actually see IR light so it'll always look wrong. There's more PP involved with IR than anything else.

[aprillove20]

Well, set your composition without the filter on..

[Ennor]

i have a Fuiji S5500 that i use for IR images, i basically use the same procedure as outlined by OsmosisStudios at the start of this thread. The trick is setting up the shot and focusing then screwing the filter on while keeping the image focused. Exposure is trial and error

[OsmosisStudios]

Originally Posted by twistedclocks

im so shattered... cant believe i cant get the filter to produce anything besides a black photo, naw was looking forward to creating an infrared photo

Do me a favour: Go out, take a shot of your backyard (or off your balcony or something). Camera on a tripod, IR filter on, f/8, 100iso, at 10, 20 and 30 seconds. then show us.

[RLucas]

Ok, you have to focus, turn off the autofocus, and if the 30 second exposure doesn't work, go for a minute, or longer. It's trial and error. You will get some crap shots until you figure out what combination works the best, You are doing this during the day aren't you? This isn't thermal imaging. These filters don't go that deep into the infrared spectrum.

[LeeR]

Keep in mind the fact that your CMOS is very sensitive to IR light. So much so that our images would not look right if IR wasn't controlled somehow in the camera. The solution the manufacturers have come up with is placing what is called a "cut filter" immemdiately in front of the CMOS sensor. That means your cut filter and your IR filter are at odds; one is only allowing IR light to pass while the other is trying to eliminate IR light. Fortunately, a little light gets through and this is what we use for these images. Companies that convert cameras do so by removing the cut filter and replacing it with clear glass. Cameras set up this way can do some amazing things; Coca Cola looks clear, sunglasses look like reading glasses and thin cotton fabrics become transparent (the source of the "X-ray vision rumors.) My camera allows enough IR through at 720 nm that I can shoot a scene at an ISO of 1600, wide open aperture, at about a half second. The shot turns out pretty grainy, but a good noiseware program will solve that problem. (I paid for mine through Imagenomics, but I understand there are some good free alternaitves available.) I would love to eventually get a camera set up specifically for IR where exposure times would be more reasonalble, but until then I muddle through with what I've got.