Go Back   Digital Photography School - Photography Forums > Critique > Other - Critique


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2009, 03:17 PM
wulf's Avatar
Ninja Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 9,830
Default

Start with the calculator.

First, select your camera (Canon 450D). Next put in your focal length and aperture (20mm and f/4 from your example, if I'm reading your settings correctly). Finally add in the distance from you to the subject (you can choose to do this in feet or meters). Watch how the figures change for different distances.

An important factor is that, the further away your subject is, the wider the depth of field. At 1m it would be about 0.4m deep. Move the subject to 2m and it increases not to 0.8m but up to 1.75m. At 4m, the depth of field would be about 14m. In your picture, you look to be focused on the building which is at least 100m away. The sharp area becomes very large BUT your foreground subject needs to be at least 5m away.

That is where the hyperfocal distance could be used - focus about 5.3m away and everything from about 2.6m on should be sharp.

The best way to grasp this is probably to play with the calculator, explore various combinations and then try them out in real life.

Wulf
__________________
Wulf Forrester-Barker << Sites: blog / flickr >>
Gear: Nikon D40, Nikon AFS 18-55mm f/3.5 - 5.6G, Nikon Series E 50mm f/1.8, Nikon AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6G, Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 macro, Raynox DCR-250, Lensbaby 2.0k, SB600
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2009, 12:20 PM
I'm new here!
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wulf View Post
Start with the calculator.

First, select your camera (Canon 450D). Next put in your focal length and aperture (20mm and f/4 from your example, if I'm reading your settings correctly). Finally add in the distance from you to the subject (you can choose to do this in feet or meters). Watch how the figures change for different distances.

An important factor is that, the further away your subject is, the wider the depth of field. At 1m it would be about 0.4m deep. Move the subject to 2m and it increases not to 0.8m but up to 1.75m. At 4m, the depth of field would be about 14m. In your picture, you look to be focused on the building which is at least 100m away. The sharp area becomes very large BUT your foreground subject needs to be at least 5m away.

That is where the hyperfocal distance could be used - focus about 5.3m away and everything from about 2.6m on should be sharp.

The best way to grasp this is probably to play with the calculator, explore various combinations and then try them out in real life.

Wulf
About the hyperfocal distance, that means i gonna focus something which is about 5.3m away from me? Then come back again to take the photo? Will this affect the sharpness of my subject which is >100m away? If compare to not using the hyperfocal distance technique. My english isn't that good but hope you will understand what i asked. BUT really thank you about those infos you gave me, it's very useful!

One more question, i like to walking around the streets and find something to shoot, so which Mode is better for this kind of shooting? P-mode or Av-mode? Especially when i see someone interesting for me, and i hope to well focus his face with blurr background, how to make it? I found that isn't easy, coz i tried some but failed. It always focus the wrong things, what should i do? Should i zoom into his/her face and shutter half way pressed, then zoom out to compose my photo and shoot? And how about the shutter speed? Since he/her and me are moving, i got most of my photos blurr, cant get what i want. Any idea? Once more, hope you understand my question. CHeerrss~

Photo Information:
Date taken = 06.08.2009 ; 1900
Shooting mode = AE
Shutter speed = 1/25
AV = F/5.6
ISO = 100
Focal = 50mm
WB = Auto

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/...96d35bfd_b.jpg

In this photo, i hope to focus the girl on the left bottom. But i focused the red t-shirt boy~

Photo information:
Date taken = 06.08.2009 ; 1900
Shooting mode = AE
Shutter speed = 1/50
AV = F/5.6
ISO = 100
Focal = 29mm
WB = Auto

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/...67100bcf_b.jpg

In this photo, i cant well focused the girl with bicycle.

Last edited by TerencePang; 08-07-2009 at 12:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2009, 01:17 PM
autofocus's Avatar
Live Life, Take Pictures
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 4,522
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TerencePang View Post
About the hyperfocal distance, that means i gonna focus something which is about 5.3m away from me? Then come back again to take the photo? Will this affect the sharpness of my subject which is >100m away? If compare to not using the hyper focal distance technique. My English isn't that good but hope you will understand what i asked. BUT really thank you about those infos you gave me, it's very useful!

One more question, i like to walking around the streets and find something to shoot, so which Mode is better for this kind of shooting? P-mode or Av-mode? Especially when i see someone interesting for me, and i hope to well focus his face with blurr background, how to make it? I found that isn't easy, coz i tried some but failed. It always focus the wrong things, what should i do? Should i zoom into his/her face and shutter half way pressed, then zoom out to compose my photo and shoot? And how about the shutter speed? Since he/her and me are moving, i got most of my photos blurr, cant get what i want. Any idea? Once more, hope you understand my question. CHeerrss~

Photo Information:
Date taken = 06.08.2009 ; 1900
Shooting mode = AE
Shutter speed = 1/25
AV = F/5.6
ISO = 100
Focal = 50mm
WB = Auto

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/...96d35bfd_b.jpg

In this photo, i hope to focus the girl on the left bottom. But i focused the red t-shirt boy~

Photo information:
Date taken = 06.08.2009 ; 1900
Shooting mode = AE
Shutter speed = 1/50
AV = F/5.6
ISO = 100
Focal = 29mm
WB = Auto

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/...67100bcf_b.jpg

In this photo, i cant well focused the girl with bicycle.
Terrence, you're contributing to your focus problem by trying to stop action of people moving on bikes or just walking towards you at too slow shutter speeds. At the shutter speeds you're using (1/25, and 1/50th) you are not going to stop action..therefore, the subjects look blurry. In order to do this, you will need a shutter speed of not slower than 1/200th second. So, you will want to shoot in the "S" mode to do that. One more very important thing to look at is how do you have your camera's focus mechanism set...if it's set on one shot, your camera will lock the focus as you press the shutter, and that's fine providing your subject is not moving. However, in what you are trying to do, you want your camera to continue to focus and change while your subject is moving. To do that, you will need to move the focus on your camera's settings to A1 Focus, or A1 Servo. Hope this helps a little.
__________________
Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph"
Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/
www.montalbanophotography.com
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2009, 01:22 PM
wulf's Avatar
Ninja Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 9,830
Default

If your camera isn't doing a good job for you, you are better off with manual focusing... and manual focusing is much easier using a lens designed for it. The focus ring on the kit lens for my D40 is narrow and slightly wobbly (at least, that's how it feels) so it was a pleasant revelation when I got my 50mm lens and found it to have a wide, stable ring complete with distance markings.

To be honest, I don't make a lot of use of hyperfocal distance focusing but I can imagine it would be very hard to combine that with autofocus mode.

Wulf
__________________
Wulf Forrester-Barker << Sites: blog / flickr >>
Gear: Nikon D40, Nikon AFS 18-55mm f/3.5 - 5.6G, Nikon Series E 50mm f/1.8, Nikon AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6G, Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 macro, Raynox DCR-250, Lensbaby 2.0k, SB600
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2009, 02:03 PM
autofocus's Avatar
Live Life, Take Pictures
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 4,522
Default

Terrence, as a complete newbie, let me make a few suggestions to you.
Number 1, read your manual.
Number 2, read your manual again.
Number 3, don't try to do too many things with your new camera at once. The camera is like a Swiss Army knife with many settings and many functions. The combination of all these different settings will yield very different results in your photos. Start by learning what all these functions will do, but do it one at a time. Then go out and practice that until you understand it before you move onto the next thing you want to try. Try re-shooting the same shot after you make some change in your original settings and see what happens...like shoot your first shot at F/3.5, and then do it again at F/11, and look at the different results.
Number 4, read your manual again, and be sure to take it with you as you go around practicing your shots. Do you get my point about reading your manual??

Vinnie
__________________
Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph"
Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/
www.montalbanophotography.com
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2009, 05:27 PM
I'm new here!
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Default

Okayss~ Thank you for all your replies.. Thx so much!!
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2009, 09:14 AM
dPS Forum Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 143
Default

I'm not one to often suggest using a camera in any auto mode. But I will point out that your 450d has an excellent auto depth of field mode (a-DEP). it'll calculate the difference between the 9 auto focus points and pick an aperture that'll best capture the entire frame in focus. that and shooting at 400iso would likely have resulted in a sharp, nice shot.

I haven't every line of the comments to you but there are some good suggestions here. I would add the following.

were I to tell someone how to take a good basic photo here I would have suggested the following assuming they know their camera's menus and buttons & making a couple of assumptions about the location, I might see the place and totally change my suggestions. with camera in a-dep mode make sure at least one focus point is on the person. I'd expect the camera would have picked somewhere around f6.3 to f8. you should have shot at 400iso. (were the shutter speed as metered over a few seconds you could use put the flash in "second curtain" mode. It'd result in a sharper foreground on a long exposure image) I would have also suggested setting the flash compensation to -1/3 to get a more natural looking blend of foreground (flash) and background (ambient). Then bump up the overall exposure by +1/3.
__________________
Zeb Palmer
Photographer - I.T. Consultant
Find me on Twitter | Flickr | Facebook
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

What’s Your Preference?

Daily Digest

Each day we send out a quick email to thousands of DPS readers to notify them of updates. This email is just short excerpt of the first few lines of our latest post with a link if you want to read it all. You can unsubscribe from this this service at any time.

This service is provided by a third party (Feedburner) and you can subscribe to it by leaving your email address in the following field and confirming your subscription when you get an email asking you to do so.

Enter your email address for
Daily Updates:

Weekly Summary

For those wanting a weekly summary of what happens on this site this free email newsletter is probably your best option. It includes a summary of the tips posted to the site each week. This newsletter is subscribed to by over 25000 readers (many who also subscribe to the other options above) - come join the community!

To subscribe to this weekly newsletter simply add your email address to the following field and then follow the confirmation prompts. You will be able to unsubscribe at any time.

Enter your email address for
Free Weekly Newsletter:

 
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.0