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Active D-Lighting should be doing the opposite of what you describe: it's meant to get detail in both the light and dark areas. Maybe the camera didn't see enough of an issue and set it to a LOW setting, but you can manually adjust it. That being said, if you're shooting RAW too, you can essentially fine-tune it to your liking when you process.
The reason there's a difference between the two is simple: a JPG is processed by the camera, a RAW is just data. The RAW file gets none of the processing (saturation boosts, sharpening, white balance, etc) that the JPG gets: the RAW file just gets the basic data from the sensor: you fiddle with the rest. In most RAW processors you can adjust things like "Recovery" (getting detail in highlights) and "Fill" (getting detail in shadows). So you can just shoot RAW and not worry about D-Lighting. When it comes to choosing, the trick is to limit your shooting. Just because your memory card holds several hundred files doesn't mean you have to use them all on the same thing. Do it in stages: first eliminate all the real duds, then go with a finer and finer selection process until youre down to your "keepers". Keep in mind, though, that in certain circumstances you can get two very similar shots look completely different depending on how you edit them.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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So you mentioned saturation boosts and sharpening. Are you talking about the settings like vivid and landscape? Or does the camera boost saturation in JPEGs every time? One thing I noticed with RAW images is that they're slightly less saturated.
You also mentioned white balance. Are you saying that whether you have WB on auto, a preset, or custom, makes no difference at all with RAW images? And does Active D-Lighting affect RAW images or not? Thanks |
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WB setting doesn't make any difference because you can tweak it later on... Don't worry about this one if you're shooting on RAW. Active D-Lighting as far as I know affect the RAW images... But you can also change your D-Lighting setting later on in the RAW converter Hope this will help
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Nikon D90 - Nikkor AF-S 17-55 F/2.8 DX - Nikkor 50 AF-1.4D Tokina 11-16 F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 70-200 F/2.8 VR2 & Nikkor 18-200 F/3.5-5.6 Portfolio: www.radityopradipto.zenfolio.com |
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I'm not 100% sure. Does anyone know if you can do it in Lightroom ? Never saw that feature.
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Life is simple: do it, then live the consequenses. My Flickr Nikon D300, 35mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8, 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6 VR, 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR, SB600 |
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But it's true that Active D-Lighting is only available to be tweaked using Capture NX2 ![]() Sorry about that
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Nikon D90 - Nikkor AF-S 17-55 F/2.8 DX - Nikkor 50 AF-1.4D Tokina 11-16 F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 70-200 F/2.8 VR2 & Nikkor 18-200 F/3.5-5.6 Portfolio: www.radityopradipto.zenfolio.com |
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Are you certain about that? I thought that "Active" delighting actually impacted the way the sensor captured light and DOES impact RAW as well as jpeg, wherease de-lighting only impacts jpegs.
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Nikon D700, D300, D5000, NIKON GLASS 85mm F/1.8 D, 105mm f/2.8 Micro AF-S VR, 70-200 AF-S VR f/2.8, 28-300 AF-S VRII,10.5mm Fisheye, 24-70 AF-S f/2.8, TC-20E II AF-S, Sigma 12-24 HSM, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM, Sigma 150-500 OS, 2 SB-600 Speedlights, Manfrotto 190MF3 tripod & 322RC2 ball grip head. - NJ, USA Flickr Photobucket Ok to edit and repost my shots on DPS forums |
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So I just took a bunch of test shots to find out what could be different between my RAW and JPG images. Active D-Lighting definitely affects RAW images. The White Balance setting also affects RAW images. I then tried setting the color profile to Adobe instead of sRGB and I still saw major differences between the RAW and JPG images.
I think I'll just shoot in RAW only from now on. It will save me the time of comparing the two. If anyone thinks this is a bad idea please chime in. Does anyone else shoot in RAW only? |
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i used it once to see what it does (not ACTIVE D-Light.. just the D-lighting)
never used it again as i always retouch in post and cant be bothered with all the in-camera wasting of time at 2.5" ...each to their own tho'
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http://www.flashpointphotography.co.nz/ |
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You mentioned earlier that you were using iPhoto. I would not recommend shooting RAW if that is your only editor. I use iPhoto for organization and sending to flickr, things like that. But it's lousy at handling RAW files. Technically, it can do it. It's just lousy. Invest in Photoshop Elements or Capture NX2 if you're going to be shooting RAW extensively. And just another thought. Don't shoot RAW with the goal of trying to make your RAW files look like SOC jpgs. Shoot jpg if you want that. Shoot RAW so you can make the photos look how you want them to look. Good luck.
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flickr Why I Like Photographs "It's more expensive, but it lets me adjust really specific settings that most people don't notice or think about." - Abed |
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