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Nikon is apparently working on a new version of the 50mm f/1.2
It will most likely auto-focus on your D80 as it will probably be AF-S. The current version will also probably drop in price. So you may want to wait a bit
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Life is simple: do it, then live the consequenses. My Flickr Nikon D300, 35mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8, 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6 VR, 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR, SB600 |
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I've used one on my Canon. But mine was pre-AI.
As I understand it, you want to avoid a pre-AI version, and try and find an AI one. A pre-AI lens can damage the minimum aperture detection switch. ![]() Simply, if the two prongs on the side of the lens are solid, it's a pre-AI lens. If they have holes in them, it's AI. A pre-AI lens may have been converted to AI somewhere down the line, but it's unlikely. Basically, you're looking for this: not this: .
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 02-16-2011 at 10:14 PM. Reason: fixing AI -> pre-AI (see posts below) |
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I got a pre-AI (scalloped) 55/1.2 for a little less than $200, but I got all health-OCD about the fact that I thought it probably had thorium (radioactive) glass in it. A lot of the '50s-'60s vintage stuff, particularly the really fast lenses, have thorium elements. For most lens collectors who are rational and understand that eating a banana gives you a higher dose of radiation than a lens does, the only concern this causes is that the lens can discolor with a brown/orange tint from the decay. Simply dosing the lens with enough UV (i.e., leaving it out in sunlight, taking care not to heat the lens (condensation, melting adhesive, etc.), or using an artificial UV source) to reverse the decay removes the tint.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 02-16-2011 at 07:23 PM. |
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With that extremely helpful breakdown, I'm guessing that this bad boy (or girl...not really sure what gender lenses are): ![]() Is of the AI mount variety, and would therefore not interfere with the mechanical goosebumps on my D80. Correct? If so, then according to the sometimes-amusing-but-usually-technically-accurate Mr. Rockwell, it'll work on a D80, but I'll lose metering. Is this a simple technicality, an added but manageable challenge, or does it make the lens a white elephant? |
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You can also check the serial number here to be doubly sure of what you're getting. For reviews on older lenses I like Bjorn Rorslett's site. Looks like he's only got an entry for the pre-AI Nikkor-SC version, though.
Edit: Yeah, that look's like an AI lens. Regarding loss of metering, that's the easy part. The hard part is going to be figuring out what's in focus at f1.2 looking through the autofocus...uh...focused viewfinder of the D80.
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flickr Why I Like Photographs "It's more expensive, but it lets me adjust really specific settings that most people don't notice or think about." - Abed Last edited by vandergus; 02-16-2011 at 07:32 PM. |
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Thanks for catching that. Now you know why so many of my posts have been edited.Quote:
Of course, you could also swap for a Canon dSLR and an adapter ring, or a D200/D300 if you wanted to get metering back. The bigger issue, as vandergus said, is going to be accurately placing your DoF if you plan to shoot with it wide open (and who doesn't get an f/1.2 lens to shoot with it wide open?) where the DoF may not only be millimeters thin, but could also be inaccurately rendered by your focus screen. On my XT with the stock matte focus screen, I felt like I was focusing by braille: a lot of hit'n'miss wiht my Olympus OM 50mm f/1.2. When I got the Katzeye split-circle focus screen for my 50D, it got simpler. And when I moved to my 5D Mark II, just swapping for the Canon EE-s ('super precision") focus screen made using the 50/1.2 wide open a positive joy.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 02-16-2011 at 10:15 PM. |
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Camera bodies are female, lenses male. Regarding both metering and focussing, your D80 is digital. Chimp to see if you have exposure where it should be, and try your best to check focussing too. (Be sure to use your histogram as your LCD will lie to you.) Checking focussing won't be as easy, though. Still, it'll be nice being able to wash away everything but your subject's left-most eyelash with f/1.2. |
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Hey all,
Thanks so much for the awesome information, inkista especially showed up displaying some of her impressive knowledge. Unfortunately the seller was totally unwilling to separate the lens from the F3 body, so I won't be getting this particular lens after all. Still, with everything I've learned here, I feel much more comfortable navigating the internet in search of older glass now. Quote:
Inkista, I went to the katzeye website...what are those things and how do they work? EDIT: Nevermind, finally found the installation instructions and it makes perfect sense now. What makes it easier to focus with that screen, though? Last edited by Cold; 02-18-2011 at 12:26 PM. |
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