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What is the best lens to use?
A lot of people on flickr use short focal lengths with wide apertures (seems obvious enough). See example here. So, knowing that, any recommendations for a good Nikon lens to shoot the milky way? I've got a D5000 body which seems to handle the low, natural light fairly well (sure, it's no D3...). Thanks for the tips! -Andrew |
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Ahh, I do not have a tracking mount. I've attempted the shot a few times and would always get star trails with the longer exposures. Shorter exposures wouldn't show the galaxy at all. I thought it was a problem with not using the right lens.
Image stacking is an option, but it looks like people get better results with the tracking mount. I'm researching that now. Any recos? |
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you can take shorter exposures and then stack them say take 10 x 30 seconds then that would almost be equal to 5 minutes of exposures...you may need to do more...you also need to be in a dark sky with little ambient light.
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Cheers. Tony Canon 5D MKII & Rebel xsi: 24-105 L IS;100-400 L IS; 18-55 IS; 75-300; Nifty Fifty F1.8, 85mm F1.8: 430EXII |
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I have a little trouble figuring this out. If every shot has the exact same exposure settings, is it any different than just taking 1 photo and then duplicating the background layer and set the blending to screen?
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Yes. The iso noise will move around from shot to shot to shot, so stacking will also decrease noise.
Andrew: suggest you google "barn door tracker astrophotography".
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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one of the reasons for using wider lenses - is that the angular change of the earth rotation is smaller. Think about it the same way as the 1/focal length shutter speed rule.
If you have an area of 90 degrees in your finder, and things move half a degree - it`s much less noticable than if you have 2 degrees in your viewfinder. This is why alot are with short focal length lenses. The moment you head towards telephoto astrophotography - you need a clock drive as above. As for stacking shots - that`s something I haven`T done. I suspect there are a few ways to do it - one of which would be to put them into layers, and use an overlay type of blend mode (as per photoshop) I`d be interested in hearing about other methods (otherwise I`ll have to go off and do my own research ;D ) |
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Quote:
You want to do dark frames because with longer exposures, an additional form of noise appears, due to heat across the sensor. "Hot pixels", unlike iso noise, do NOT move about from shot to shot. Taking a dark frame (i.e., an exposure of the same length/aperture/iso but with the lens cap on) will pinpoint hot pixels, and allow for their removal in the final image. That's why when you use the setting in-camera, you're doubling your exposure time. Understand, please I only know about all this stuff theoretically from reading too many webpages. I've never actually done any of this.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 09-07-2010 at 11:39 PM. |
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The other pre-requisite is of course really dark skies. Stacking images won't reduce skylight from light pollution!
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/54311838@N00/ Feel free to edit and re-post my images to DPS only Nikon D90, Nikon V1, and a variable bunch of lenses. |
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