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Dan, all lenses have sweet spots both in their aperture settings and their focal range. Very often lenses will fall off at, or near their extremes on both ends. And usually the sweet spot for the aperture is usually around two or three stops closed down from full open. As far as the noise...do you have your camera set for continuous focus, or one shot? If on continuous, it will constantly be focusing and re-focusing as you, your camera, or your subject is moving. So, it may not be you afterall...
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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Can you show us some examples, preferably at 100%, to see this "fuzziness"?
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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I may be overstretching myself on this one, but at longer distances isn't the atmosferic refraction and amount of particles in the atmosphere supposed to make everything more difuse? Take a pair of binoculars, for instance. Maintaing the same magnification, a distant object will be diffuse and soft-looking, because the light has travelled through a lot of vapour and suspended particles. For this same reason, colours in the distance look much more faded than at close range, an effect most canvas arists are familiar with, and use this de-saturation to emphasize distance.
No wonder that all telezoom lenses loose sharpness at long ranges. This probably has got nothing to do with the focal distance, just the observer's range to the subject. Just my two (euro) cents.
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Nikon D3000; 18-105 VR; 35 f1.8; Lightroom 3 |
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Quote:
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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The noise is the VR working. The active VR is for when you are in a car, train, plane, etc... a moving platform, otherwise you want active off. VR is for handholding, turn it off when you use a tripod. Please post some images so we can see if you problem is due to camera motion or something else. Include the exif data. Remember that at 300mm hand-held you really need to be shooting at something like 1/250th or faster, even with VR to eliminate camera motion as the cause of the lack of sharpness.
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Nikon D700, D300, D5000, NIKON GLASS 85mm F/1.8 D, 105mm f/2.8 Micro AF-S VR, 70-200 AF-S VR f/2.8, 28-300 AF-S VRII,10.5mm Fisheye, 24-70 AF-S f/2.8, TC-20E II AF-S, Sigma 12-24 HSM, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM, Sigma 150-500 OS, 2 SB-600 Speedlights, Manfrotto 190MF3 tripod & 322RC2 ball grip head. - NJ, USA Flickr Photobucket Ok to edit and repost my shots on DPS forums |
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