I use a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX100 Point and Shoot camera and I'm determined to show that P&S cameras aren't just happy snappy cameras. So if your interested in the work u see above head on over to flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonvandermeijden/
![]()
Still not working? Here are a few other things you can try:
Hold your index finger out, and place it against your nose. While looking at it, move it back to halfway between you and the image. Keep your eyes focused on this point and remove your finger. Let the blurry image slowly come into focus, don't force it or your eyes will un-cross.
Try pressing your nose up against the image until you can see it go blurry and your vision doubles. Slowly move back without trying to focus your eyes and it should converge
Focus on an object about 30cm away. Place the 3D image you want to see halfway between you and the object you're looking at and let it slowly un-blur and focus.
I use a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX100 Point and Shoot camera and I'm determined to show that P&S cameras aren't just happy snappy cameras. So if your interested in the work u see above head on over to flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonvandermeijden/
Wow that's pretty neat!!!! I just focused on the bottom of may page ( on my iPhone) and let the background unfocused then slowly looked at the photos. Really neat idea!!! I would like to know how you take photos for 3D pairs tho?
Last edited by Gallamist; 12-29-2012 at 04:23 PM.
I take them separately. I take 1 photo, move about 1cm to the right and take another (depending on how close the subject is, you'll have to experiment with that) and then I put the 2 images together in GIMP. Haha It's a bit of trial and error, but the results are definitely worth the trouble.
If you have a fast shutter speed, you can do what I do. Set the camera to burst mode, focus the image correctly, then as you are taking the shots, slowly move right, doing it this way allows you more freedom when your putting the pics together, because you have lots of picture to choose from with varying distance between the first shot and the shot you select.
Sorry I'm not all that good at explaining. If there is anything you don'n understand just ask me![]()
I use a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX100 Point and Shoot camera and I'm determined to show that P&S cameras aren't just happy snappy cameras. So if your interested in the work u see above head on over to flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonvandermeijden/
I have to say- that's pretty cool. It's sort of like looking at one of those magic eye pictures. TFS
http://500px.com/tiffanyboman82
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tboman/
Nikon D7000, infrared converted D200, 18-105mm kit lens, Samyang 85mm 1.4, nikon 50mm 1.8, nikkor 60mm 2.8 macro, lensbaby composer pro, lensbaby fisheye, SB-700
Its Amassing, for me my favorite part about 3D is how sharp the picture becomes as well as the extra pop of colors you get, It almost feels like your there inn real life.
I'm looking forward to seeing more posts like this![]()
I use a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX100 Point and Shoot camera and I'm determined to show that P&S cameras aren't just happy snappy cameras. So if your interested in the work u see above head on over to flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonvandermeijden/
The definition of frustration: Finally getting the image and realizing it and then losing it because you realize that you got it. lol but it was cool for a second![]()
I use a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX100 Point and Shoot camera and I'm determined to show that P&S cameras aren't just happy snappy cameras. So if your interested in the work u see above head on over to flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonvandermeijden/
Those are really cool. The one with the bee is the best - it seems to have more depth to it.
Oddly enough, the image in your tutorial is the hardest for me to see in 3D. It doesn't have as much separation of foreground and background.
Anyway, very well done. TFS.
Ian
idb
Pentax K200D, 50/1.4, 35/2.8 macro, 18-55 kit zoom, 50-200 zoom, Sigma 30/1.4, Tamron 90/2.8 macro, Sony DSCH-1 P&S with 12x zoom, plus a lot of 35mm Minolta gear.
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