|
|||
|
These were taken with my 18-200 mm Nikkor zoom mounted onto my D80, handheld. I simply used the programmed Macro mode on the camera. I am thinking that I might get improved sharpness and detail and better depth of field if I bought the Nikkor 105 mm f/2.8, but HOW much better do you think would it be? I am showing the crop of the center of the flower so you get a sense of detail and DoF. Except for a little crop on the bee picture (and the center of the flower), these are right out of the camera. Thanks in advance.
(P.S.--I'll admit to being quite the novice photographer (I'm sure it shows) --just learning to pull it off of autofocus! LOL) Exif data: Shutter: 1/125 f/5.6 Focal length: 170mm WB auto ISO 250 No flash ![]() Same as above, except ISO at 280. ![]()
Last edited by Quicklabs; 07-06-2008 at 01:40 PM. |
|
||||
|
Nice composition in the first.....bee is nicely placed and I like that you've included all of the flower it was on
![]() At the same magnification you'll get the same DoF on the macro lens as you do now but with much better detail and sharpness etc. A macro lens will also allow you to shoot at higher magnifications so the subject appear bigger but as you increase magnification (go closer) you'll get less DoF for any given aperture.
__________________
Andrew - My pics on Flickr Canon 7D, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, MP-E 65mm macro, TS-E 90mm, 100mm macro |
|
||||
|
There are things you can do to improve besides buying a new lens. Use a tripod and stop down to f8 or so. You will notice that your photos will be sharper. Good job too. I love the colors!
__________________
Canon 300D; Canon 18-55 IS; Canon 28-80 f/3.5-5.6 USM; Canon 100-300 USM; Canon 50 f/1.8 Nature and Wildlife Gallery |
|
||||
|
No one can say a true prime macro lens will not be better than a closefocus general purpose zoom. The question is will you use it enough to justify the cost? There are some much cheaper alternatives that provide excellent results.
In the examples given I believe some other issues exist as the shots generally lack crispness. As mentioned a tripod might help. Your shutter speed was much too long for the focal length used. Hand held macros require even higher than normal shutter speeds to reduce camera movement. For bugs and such I generally use flash to freeze the action. Another issue is: Is it possible you were closer to subject than the minimum focus distance for your lens? I like to focus on manual and move the camera to get thing in focus. The down side a slight breeze and they are out of focus. next use the smallest lens opening (Biggest number) to get DOF needed. AS one get closer the DOF for a specific gets smaller. So small that he DOF is down to small fractions of an inch. |
|
|||
|
Very helpful answers and information. Thank you all. I will be looking at the Nikkor 105the Tamron 90 and the Sigma 105 mms.
Elmo, what do you think a more reasonable shutter would have been? Could I use the on-board flash, rather than a separate speedlight? Again, thanks. |
|
||||
|
On board flash is generally a problem as it often cas a shadow from the longer lens extension at close range. You might want to try it to see what happens. If you do put a white handkerchief over the flash for a diffuser to soften the light.
I use a regular flash on a bracket with a 4 x 6 inch diffuser for most of my flash shots. The front of the diffuser is positioned right beside the lens and flosh with the front of the lens. It is aimed at the subject. As for a shutter speed I try to use a shutter speed at least 3 times the normal recommendations for ss. The normal would be 1/focal length. i would try to get 1/)3 x Focal length) for hand held. That being said I seldom hand hold macros and if I do I try to use flash. Most of what I shoot are shot from a tripod with a remote release.. hope this helps. |
|
|||
|
When you say better DoF, are you wanting deeper or shallower DoF. The 105 2.8 can give you much deeper DoF or it can drop the background out to a beautifully painted blur. It does exhibit a bit of purple fringe on brighter object sometimes, but that can be controlled to a manageable degree by controlling the contrast with a diffuser. I've also seen excellent results from the Sigma 150 macro. A tripod or developing a very good technique will help to reduce motion induced softness in any lens that you decide to get.
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Each day we send out a quick email to thousands of DPS readers to notify them of updates. This email is just short excerpt of the first few lines of our latest post with a link if you want to read it all. You can unsubscribe from this this service at any time.
This service is provided by a third party (Feedburner) and you can subscribe to it by leaving your email address in the following field and confirming your subscription when you get an email asking you to do so.
Enter your email address for
Daily Updates:
For those wanting a weekly summary of what happens on this site this free email newsletter is probably your best option. It includes a summary of the tips posted to the site each week. This newsletter is subscribed to by over 25000 readers (many who also subscribe to the other options above) - come join the community!
To subscribe to this weekly newsletter simply add your email address to the following field and then follow the confirmation prompts. You will be able to unsubscribe at any time.
Enter your email address for
Free Weekly Newsletter: