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If you want a larger DoF, stop using a macro lens
![]() Short DoF is almost a defining characteristic of shooting macro, and that means if you're manually focusing, you have to be spot on. As you can see, even at f/10, your DoF ends up being shorter than the length of an ant. As for focusing, just practice. Get a normal lens on the camera, and go around to random things around you and focus on them as fast as you can. I personally find that focusing through something and firing the shutter as I pass through perfect focus is the fastest way to do it, but you get one good shot that way. Taking the time to dial it in and keep it there will let you take advantage of things like motor drive. Also, don't forget you can move your camera/body to adjust focus as well.
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Zooomr|Flickr|Big Stock Photo|dreamstime All work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License unless otherwise noted. (meaning you can edit and repost my images unless I specifically ask you not to) All post-processing done with The Gimp Last edited by Major_Small; 06-16-2008 at 03:34 PM. Reason: more words. |
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Hey thanks Major_Small. Yeah, I guess an over reliance on auto focus has taken away what little skills I had of focusing a camera. I have actually not used the manual focus on my Nikkor 18-135mm lens at all, so it is like learning everything all over again with the Tamron 90mm. Maybe I should start taking all my photos on manual to get more used it.
About your comment on not using the macro lens, I am yet to figure out how these great photos you see here and elsewhere manage to get so much into focus with a macro lens, while I seem to have a razor sharp plane of focus (which I invariably miss ). I will certainly try the trick you suggested about firing the shutter while passing through the best focus, instead of trying to get and hold the best focus first. That should help me get oriented better.
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I am using the Nikon105 mm Macro VR and I use it in manual focus mode...with flash! Aperture priority set at f22 at least and then get the exposure right by adding + stops and + flash, diffused with a Stoffen and you can get better DoF and a sharp shot too helped by the flash..and all hand held. Of course there are limitations to what you can do with flowers and you cannot expect to get huge DoF with a Macro lens when the plane of the subject includes the head and stem of maybe several inches. That is when you need a tripod and ring flash etc etc etc.
John H |
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To illustrate the points made above these were taken with a Macro lens at close distance at different apertures. Focus, exposure and white balance were all manual.
![]() EF-S 60mm Macro, f/11 ![]() EF-S 60mm Macro, f/22 At any given aperture, the closer you get to the subject the greater the magnification and the smaller the DoF. Using apertures f/16 and above becomes important to get more of the subject your focus.
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~ Newt ~ Canon 5D MkII | Canon 40D | Canon A2 | Canon F-1 EF 16-35mm f/2.8L | EF 24-70mm f/2.8L | EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS EF 35mm f/1.4L | EF 50mm f/1.4 | EF 85mm f/1.8 | EF 300mm f/2.8L IS EF-S 60mm f/2.8 MACRO | EF 100mm f/2.8 MACRO |
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If you want more DoF, you can stop the lens way down and add light with a flash, use a tilt-shift lens on extension tubes, or use software and multiple images focused at different points to focus stack.
Focusing with a macro lens is hard. Most of the time, focus is set by varying your distance to the subject. You can also try using the autofocus confirm, if you think the AF is going to be more accurate than your eyes through the viewscreen. Basically, half-press the shutter button, and turn the focus ring on the lens, and when you hit the point the AF system would use, one of your AF points will light up. (I think it's green on the Nikons. It's red on my XT).
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Hi
I had the same problem as you are. With the macro lens - mine's 100mm - some of the flower would be out of focus, and it was really starting to annoy me. It wasn't until I was chatting to someone who suggested using my standard lens, in this case a Canon EF 17-40mm zoom to take the shot. What a difference, as it enabled me to take the same shot but with the whole bloom in focus, without losing any of the detail. It does mean though getting quite close, but that's no big deal. In these instances I do use a tripod, and a remote shutter - as I'm still trying not to wobble the camera I've attached a shot I've done using this lens just to show you what I'm talking about. I'm no expert, but i'm sure someone will explain in my case why this works!
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Jane ![]() Canon EOS 20d using with it 3 lenses: Canon L Class 17-40mm, Canon 100mm Macro and Canon 100-300mm Zoom http://www.flickr.com/photos/lollipopples/ |
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Jane your shot is beautiful.
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Lori Putman flickr ~No one can drive us crazy unless we give them the keys ~~Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to dance in the rain! 7D | 300L f/4 IS | 135L | 35L | 100/2.0 | 50/1.4 430 EX, 580 EX II Speedlites |
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These are really nice PhotoNewt, so delicate and you've captured that well. They remind me of the tissue paper flowers I made as a child in elementary school.
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Lori Putman flickr ~No one can drive us crazy unless we give them the keys ~~Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to dance in the rain! 7D | 300L f/4 IS | 135L | 35L | 100/2.0 | 50/1.4 430 EX, 580 EX II Speedlites |
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Thanks to everyone for the various tips you have provided. I haven't yet got the opportunity to put them in practice (work, work ...) but I will definitely do it this weekend and post the results here.
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![]() It is reasonably OK, so as you say the standard zoom lens do work but they lack the effect of a close up shot of a true macro lens. This was with f/7.1, 1/800 sec at ISO-400, everything set by the camera in "P" mode. |
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