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Hmmm, now that you mention it my Nikon does give a beep even in MF. I was wondering why it does that. I will see if I can get it to beep when I take these macros next time, before clicking.
I wear glasses too, pretty strong ones as well, but I played with the diopter adjustment next to the view finder and I have now set it to where what I see in the viewfinder is more or less what comes out in the photograph. |
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Another trick to try is to insert a high contrast target like a playing card into the scene at the 'plane' where you want to focus (manually or in autofocus). Many digital cameras look for a line of contrast on which to focus in the 'auto' mode and the card may help. Granted, the use of a card is more tedious when doing insects in the garden but may be helpful when doing a studio-type setup shot.
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Sincerely, Lee -clockdoc- |
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I found an excellent guide....http://fotosharp.com/depth_of_field_info.html
It all makes a lot of sense. John |
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Ah, I'd like to think I'm improving my focusing technique. Here's my latest attempt:
![]() I especially liked the way the water glistens in the middle, I put a drop of water into the flower just to see how it will appear. Came out OK, I guess. EXIF: Aperture: f/5.6 Speed: 0.005 (1/200) sec ISO: 1600 Edited in PSE6 to resize and cleanup. The ISO jumped to 1600 because this was indoors and there wasn't any bright light around I could shine on the flower. I tried at lower ISO setting sbut they all came out darker than I wanted. The full flower: ![]() What do you guys think? |
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2nd one looks cracking
If it was the centre of the flower you were aiming for in the first then it looks bang on to me. Did you try ones where you focus on the tips of the stamen too? (just for the sake of practicing!)
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Andrew - My pics on Flickr Canon 7D, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, MP-E 65mm macro, TS-E 90mm, 100mm macro |
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Thanks daft_biker. As for the first one, yes I was aiming for the centre of the flower. I have two more photos on Flickr in which I focused on the tips of the stamen, only I was trying it sideways so that I could focus on the nearer ones and then the middle ones.
It was really cloudy outside and raining as well, so this whole exercise was conducted indoors, which meant lesser light since I don't have any fancy light box stuff. This in turn meant wider apertures and higher ISOs, even after placing the flower next to the window. |
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ISO looked fine to me....as practice shots they are rather pretty so good job there too. If anything shooting at a wide aperture would mean you had to be really accurate with the focus so I don't think that's a problem either. You've got it dialed
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Andrew - My pics on Flickr Canon 7D, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, MP-E 65mm macro, TS-E 90mm, 100mm macro |
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Quote:
A flower that's very 3D,like a rose or Iris defies any effort to get ultra close and still focus everything. However....you CAN do an ultra close that has a whole range of sharp and soft and make that work. A shot like this rose is not something you do from 4" away. If you want a rose in full focus you are best odd with a 35 mm wide angle on a small extension at about f 11. A flower that's more 2 dimensional, like a daisy or my favorite, Cinereria, is easier as you can find the angle to get it all into your DOF. Bugs + bees won't play along with getting too close. I've done macro's with my 300 mm on a bellows. That can get a real up close from more distance---but a long tele won't have much DOF at all,and when you have it on a bellows,it's a bulky beast hard to maneuver on a tripod,but then you are using f 8 to get some DOF and full bellows adds a couple of stops to that.....so it's not a thing you try with a low ASA. Truth is....I'm really mostly still an old school 35 mm guy. Digital is handy,quick. I WANT a nice Pentax digital SLR,once I can afford it. However....for a great macro,I'd rather use a vintage 70's screw mount match needle 35 mm SLR because I have that hardware and I know what I'm getting. |
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