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The ones where you can see the hairs on the legs of a bee ... without being right on top of the bee? That's just an example. I have an Olympus E-5 and a Olympus 50mm f/2.0 Telephoto Macro ED Lens and while I get some great shots with it I can't seem to get those crisp clear detailed images like you see. Do I need an extension or ??? Help please.
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You need a true 1:1 macro lens or extension tubes.
For example, I use Kenko Extension tubes on my Canon 60D with the 55-250mm lens. Here's an example: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...00/spider3.png https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...720/spider.png https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...12/spider2.png https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...4/s640/fly.png Those are literally the first shots I took with that lens in combination with the tubes. I have a lot of practicing to do and also in need of a flash. The tubes run about 130 shipped on eBay. In those shots I used the 36mm tube in combination with the 55-250 lens. Works great. I believe they make the tubes for your Olympus as well. With the tubes and that lens I literally am about 2-3 inches away from the subject. The spider was smaller than my pinky fingernail. If you want TRUE macro, I suggest a real 1:1 macro lens. They are pricey but the results are worth it. I'm planning on getting the Canon 100mm for myself in the near future. Good luck with your photos !
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Camera: Canon 60D Lenses: Canon 18-135IS, 50mm F/1.8, 55-250IS, 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM (soon), Kenko AF Extension Tubes |
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A lot of the images you're probably thinking about are stacked images. Some of them may use literally hundreds of images that are then "focus stacked" to provide the final result.
Google the "focus stacking" also a lot of good macro specific information on photomacrography.net.. Canon shooters have Canons wonderful 60 macro lens that goes to 5x, that can help a lot. Most macro lenses only go 1x (1:1 on a full frame sensor). I use extension tubes a lot to get past 1:1 and favor 100mm type lenses so you can get a little more distance from shy bugs. A fast (F2.8) 100mmish macro lens can also double as a pretty darn good portrait lense. Some of my bug pictures are out HERE. Mine are all shot with "normal" macro lenses/extension tubes and no focus stacking. My gallery should give you an idea of what you might be able to expect from a "normal Joe" photographer with "normal Joe" gear. Last edited by arlon; 09-08-2011 at 05:05 PM. |
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Tubes put the lens out pretty far in front of the camera. I built a "snoot" out of some scrap foam core to direct the light in front of the lens other wise your subject will be in the lenses shadow.
I have pics of the " macro snoot" in HERE. |
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Hm.. if you want to get a "macro lens" that does about 1.8 magnification, you could check out the EF 35-70, though it isnt a macro lens, when you remove the front element, it can get really up close shots, and you have to be really close too, less than 3 inches.
Amazon.com: Canon EF 35-80mm f/4-5.6 III Lens: Camera & Photo If you want even closer ones, you could do this Macro photography for $10 | Pixiq, I didn't use pringles, i used a shuttlecock tube thing, peeled a few inner layers so it fit the lens and the cap, glued the cap to the tube. (No aperture changing though) There was ONE thing that happened when i opened the lens though, i spoiled the aperture D: So, now my alternative is a black paper, making it an f11 lens all the time, meaning the viewfinder is super dark and i can only shoot during daytime. |
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I've gotten a rig that allows me to put my flash on a bracket like
this that can then be moved out to the front of the lens/tubes. I shoot macro primarily with a Canon 50mm f1,4 and kenko tubes. My flash is a Speedlite 430ex, camera is a Canon Xsi. With this rig, handheld, I can get results like this: Closer than really necessary.jpg and this: Oh Baby.jpg Enjoy! |
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