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First the DOF increases the f-number increases. The DOF is also a function of the FL of the lens in use, longer FL smaller DOF. Also the apparent DOF is determined by the pixel size, P&S small pixel larger DOF, DSLR larger pixel smaller DOF.
But in answer to your question a true macro lens (not a general purpose lens with close focus) will generate a much better image overall than a close focus lens. Not many GP lenses have a macro function (close focus) and will do ok within there range but few will allow true macro (1 to 1) images. So if you are planning to do closeup. flowers and the like, a close focus GP lens will do for a start. But if one wants to get close a macro lens (with far focus ability is the way to go. there are other options like close-up add on lenses which work well. and more complicated options like stacking or reversing lenses.which can get you close. |
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Thank you. I have seen ppl post about stacking or reversing lenses, but I'm not comfortable with the idea of 'rigging' my camera in ways it wasn't intended to be used & I don't think I know enough about the basics to attempt it...lol. I may look into the close-up add on lens. I need to do some research on that since I have no idea what to buy.
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Nikon D40, 18-55mm Kit lens, AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm VR, Sigma 70-300mm DG macro Canon PowerShot SX110 IS |
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You can use extention tubes, these I think will give you better results than close-up filters. Why? Simply with tubes there is no additional glass to degrade the image. Extention tubes will allow your lense to be used at a closer minumum focusing distance (MFD). No need to buy an expensive set. Kenko makes some good ones that in some instances will still allow AF, but for focusing that close manual is the only way to go. . If you are using slower apperatures ( as in f16 or f22) a tripod is a must as the shutter speed will be too slow to prevent motion blurr. In addition to a tripod for times when you need slow SS a cable release will further aid in stopping motion blurr.
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Canon 50D, 70-200 f4L IS, 20-35 f2.8L, 100 F2.8L IS, 300mm F4L IS, 430ex, and assorted gadgets.
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Thanks. I had seen extension tubes mentioned somewhere but wasn't sure about those. Maybe I'll see what I can find. Thanks!
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Nikon D40, 18-55mm Kit lens, AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm VR, Sigma 70-300mm DG macro Canon PowerShot SX110 IS |
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You can also use a focusing ramp, which will move the camers fractionally,when on a tripod. Also you can make several exposures at fractional distances,and stack them with software such as Helicon,or a free one: Combine ZM. regards,Ken
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I've never heard of a focusing ramp. How does that work & what do I need to buy? I do have a tripod. I have photoshop CS3. Will this work for the stacking? I know the basics of the program and can follow a tutorial pretty well. Otherwise, I can download the combine zm. Also, when I try this, would it be beneficial to shoot in RAW? I've not dabbled much with that yet, but since it does retain more data, it may work better with the stacking process?? Does Combine ZM support Nikon's RAW files?
My finacee has a green thumb and fills our yard with pretty flowers every year. If I can get some beautiful close-ups, I'd love to get a handful of frame-worthy shots to put up.
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Nikon D40, 18-55mm Kit lens, AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm VR, Sigma 70-300mm DG macro Canon PowerShot SX110 IS |
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A focusing ramp (image below) fits on tripod. camera fits on focusing ramp. Focusing ramp is adjustable sideways and forwards-once you have focused normally,you adjust ramp for fine tuning your focus,and composition,by moving camera fractionally for extra accuracy. Ken
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