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Nice. It's been a while since I've seen one of these. I'm so busy nowadays. I really do need to take time out and go for a nature walk, as well as maybe go through a formal garden or a park or something like that. It's just so busy right now.
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Canon EOS 40D, 400D (EF 75-300mm, EFS 18-55mm, Sigma 50-200mm, Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L) Earth Home Construction Project Site: Stockton Underground Also: Photos @ Google and Photos @ Flickr |
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It might be the sizing, but it isn't very sharpfocus?
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- D300 - D80 - Nikkor 18-200mm 3.5-5.6 - Nikkor, 28mm 2.8, 50mm 1.8 - Crumpler 7 MDR - LR - CS3 - I shoot in RAW - http://www.flickr.com/photos/photojulius/ Feel free to edit and repost my pictures on DPS only. |
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What is the sunny 16 rule? |
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Hi Heidilyn...here's a brief explanation of the "sunny 16" rule..it's geared mostly to film but you can apply it to digital if you're shooting in manual mode.. hope it's helpful...
In photography, the sunny 16 rule (or, less often, the "sunny f/16 rule") is a method to estimate correct daylight exposures without using a light meter. The basic sunny 16 rule, applicable on a sunny day, is this: Set aperture to f/16 and shutter speed (reciprocal seconds) to ISO film speed. For example, for ISO 100 film, choose shutter speed of 1/100 second (or 1/125 second) The elaborated form of the sunny 16 rule for more general situations is: Set the shutter speed to the setting nearest to the ISO film speed Set the f-number according to the table below: Aperture Lighting Conditions Shadow Detail f/16 Sunny Distinct f/11 Slight Overcast Soft around edges f/8 Overcast Barely visible f/5.6 Heavy Overcast No shadows f/4 Sunset [1]
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DSLR -Nikon D50 & D300 - Pentax K20D POINT 'n' SHOOT - Panasonic Lumix DMC LX5 and LZ8 - General Electric X5 |
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Heidilyn, Welcome
Good subject and color combination. The sharpness seems confined to the bloom's center, very little of any petal showing much detail. Very narrow DOF could account for that, but EXIF doesn't seem to agree. Were you in any Macro or other mode? If you imagine blooms as faces, and treat the image as a portrait, your subject is looking right, and is on the right side of the composition. Your viewer follows that look out of the frame, again and again. In the viewfinder, just before the shutter completes your shot, is the time to move that face to a position that arrests your viewer, makes them stay and enjoy it. That increased sharpness is important for the same reason: for a longer, more enjoyable viewing. Cropping is sometimes the last chance you have to get better composition. If this is how you framed in camera, you're left little choice but to go in closer for a tight center shot. If you get in the habit of leaving "breathing room" around all your bloom's petals, they are a more relaxed sight, and it leaves you the option of a different composition. I have to wonder what you saw as you took this? Did you notice just the edges of some petals were clipped?
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OK to re-edit and repost photo(s) only on DPS forums Proud user of a Fuji FP S3100, Nikon P90, a Canon T3i, and persistence. |
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Thanks you so much for your suggestions. I have a lot to work on
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