Serenity Sunset

[Sooner266]

I am mostly wondering about composition (maybe the stalk should be more toward the right vertical third line?) but feel free to point out anything else I could work on. Also, is the DOF too shallow? The problem is that there are buildings in the shot that detract from the mood if the aperture were closed down more. I consider it a close up/macro; I was at the Nifty Fifty's minimum focus distance. Color correction in PS CS2.



Thanks,
Dave

Forgot to mention, this shot is easily repeatable so don't be afraid to say, try again.

[bruceliv]

I like this shot. It has a temporal feeling. I also believe the lack of DoF is what makes "this" image work. I'm not sure if I like the "sky" washed out, but your explanation is a good one.
This photo is a keeper because of its uniqueness! Lovely!

Since this subject is repeatable, why not use it as a study series to learn from?
Edward Weston used the same teacup set up for months as a study piece. He was probably one of the great masters of the 20th C.
If you wish suggestions on how to go about this, just ask. Use your imagination. You have one heck of an eye!

[Lolkat]

I REALLY like this shot, this only thing I think anyone might nit-pick about would be the bit of stalk cut off on the right, but it has a great feel to it- very summery, warm and serene.

[Sooner266]

Thank you both for your input. Ok, I will go back when I have some time and adjust the composition.
Hm, A study series? Yes, that sounds interesting. What exactly do you mean by that?

[kianblue]

Nice! I too think a little better composition and a little more blue in the sky would make it pop. I like how you took wheat and made it a terrific picture, such a small thing but very dramatic. Did you do this in the morning light, it is a beautiful golden? I'm trying to learn to.

[bruceliv]

To do a study, mount lens on tripod.
1. Shoot different times of the day.
2. Shoot from different angles.
3. Shoot a set with different f-stops.
---a. learn to control depth of field.
4. Do a set using fill-in flash at different angles.
5. Set up a remote flash off the camera.
6. Place a paper backdrop behind subject.
---a. Try different color backdrops.
---b. Try to use selection tools in post-processing to isolate subject.
---c. Try inserting a different background as a layer and experiment with gaussian blur.

Enjoy as you learn the craft!

Edward Weston (Wikipedia):
"...at that early stage of his career he was highly particular about his work; in an interview at that time he said '[photographic] plates are nothing to me unless I get what I want. I have used thirty of them at a sitting if I did not secure the effect to suit me.'"

[Sooner266]

It is actually a sunset at about 6 pm.

Ok that's kinda what I thought a study series was, thanks for explaining it.
Well this particular patch of grass, (its actually not wheat I don't think, i'm not sure what it is, just some type of long headed grass) is actually just about a 6 foot wide patch of decorative landscaping in amongst a bunch of buildings, so there aren't alot of angle options.

I took more than this one, I just put them on my flickr, but not of the same exact blade of grass, just differing shots in the whole bunch of grass messing with focus length and actually alot of the stuff you mentioned, and placing of the sun through the grass, so you could say I've already been doing a study series

This was also a question I might ask, if any one is willing to look quickly at my flickr set of this (relatively small, ~50 items i think), I have a few others that I liked but wasn't sure if they were as good as this one, so I was wondering which ones are the best of the others and maybe even if you like any better than this one? I would be super appreciative!
Sunset Grass - a set on Flickr
As you can see, I color corrected some of my favorites but didn't bother with others since it was a pain to convert each .RAW for CS2 before adjustment.
Again, thank you for the input and suggestions everybody!

[bruceliv]

Well, you certainly are doing a study and are obviously very serious.

Looked through and commented on some photos in the set. There are angles that you can appropriately shoot backlit, but yet not have the actual blown-out sun in the image. Viewing the blown out sun in so many pictures became tiresome. You may have to move in closer to your subject for that. Many images should be cropped. If you enable "notes" on flickr, I could have marked it. You are certainly exploring possibilities with your little 50mm. You might like to research the purchase of the thinnest extension tube available so you can move in closer. Also, I suggest you do your closeup work with manual focus. Save up for a macro lens.

You can now begin being more selective of which images you post to flickr.

RE: RAW. Doesn't ACR in CS2 convert from your camera? Or is your camera too new? That's how Adobe makes money -- they stop developing new camera raw updates and make you buy an updated version of CS. CS2 can be updated, but probably not for long. I try to keep no more than one version behind. If you lose rights to upgrade and buy a new camera, you have to shell out the price for the complete package.

[Sooner266]

Huh, I hadn't thought of not putting the sun in the shot. I was so entranced by getting a good shot of its effect coming through the grass before it went down, I was snapping away but not really thinking. Another thing on my list to go back for.

Thank you for looking through them! I'll try your suggestions and keep them in mind when I head back for more.
Its funny you mention those suggestions on shooting, I have the non-electronic 3-section extension tubes, I will give them a try here, and have the Tokina 100mm 2.8 macro lens in the crosshairs once I save enough change. I have also been using manual focus for all of these shots, i'm not a big fan of AF in general (probably just my slow cheap lenses), and definitely not for closeups/macros. Good to know I'm on the right track!

About RAWs, I don't think so, I've researched and tried and what CS2 says should open RAWs, doesn't open these. I've been considered getting CS5 since I'm a digital art student (cheap student license), also considering photography, so I guess this is another reason I should.

[bruceliv]

Very glad I could be of assistance.

I suggest the Sigma 105 EX f/2.8 Macro. It goes to 1:1, delivers excellent sharpness, has a really long free working distance, no focus breathing. This might be better than the Tokina for what you want to do.

You are too serious not to be able to use RAW files in PS. Student discount? Gosh, get CS5. It's for you! You may want to consider the entire package so you can work in Illustrator with vectors too.

If your camera takes the M mount, you might be able to fit the very limited supply (only produced a couple thousand in the early 1990's) of the Cosina Voigtlander 125mm f/2.5 Apo-Lanthar in an appropriate mount for you. This manual focus lens is the the best lens ever made for 1:1 to infinity, from f/2.5 to f/22 tack sharp at all setting with the most beautiful bokeh ever, no focus breathing and no chromatic aberrations whatsoever. I have the Nikon version and it's wonderful -- my favorite lens of all times.