please help

[k9mom]

Originally Posted by RustySterling

She is shooting with a 40D and the recommended sync speed is 125th for that camera (I have two 40Ds and use them often with studio strobes at 125th). So I don't think that would be a problem. However, I agree with everyone else about dumping the continuous lighting. The Alien Bees are going to blow it out anyway. One on the background and the other key with a reflector for fill and you shouldn't really have any problems shoot f8 or f11 at 125th.

Rusty -- beautiful portraits. I'm new to off-camera flash/lighting and am curious as to why it is recommended to use a 1/125 sync speed with the 40D, instead of the max sync speed of 1/250. My first attempt at studio lighting is shown below, using 1/250 sync. Would the results have been better had I used 1/125th instead? (I chose the 1/250 sync because dogs were in the shoot and they tend to move around a lot, so I thought the higher sync speed might be better. Is that incorrect thinking?

Thanks for your input...I'm still very low on the learning curve, so your feedback would be much appreciated.

[k9mom]

Originally Posted by Rebecca Loupe

Thanks again for all the replies. I have my camera set on Manual Mode so how do you set your exposure compostion with that mode? My camera won't let me do that I have to change to shutter speed, aperture, and iso to move the bar. Sorry if it is a dumb question...I just am not sure if there is a way without changing the above settings.

Sorry, didn't read your orig post closely enough...as Zona said above, when in manual, simply use your exposure meter to over-expose +1 or +2.

[RustySterling]

Originally Posted by k9mom

Rusty -- beautiful portraits. I'm new to off-camera flash/lighting and am curious as to why it is recommended to use a 1/125 sync speed with the 40D, instead of the max sync speed of 1/250. My first attempt at studio lighting is shown below, using 1/250 sync. Would the results have been better had I used 1/125th instead? (I chose the 1/250 sync because dogs were in the shoot and they tend to move around a lot, so I thought the higher sync speed might be better. Is that incorrect thinking?

Thanks for your input...I'm still very low on the learning curve, so your feedback would be much appreciated.

125th is the recommended sync speed in the 40D manual. I know it will also sync at 250th, so no sweat. I was merely commenting because someone else had questioned her using 125th.

BTW, the lighting for those portraits were studio strobes -- one key, one fill, one hair/edge light and one background light. Plus there was a reflector under the key to bounce light back up to the face.

[Rebecca Loupe]

Thanks for sharing those pictures and advice. I have my AB as close as I can to the backdrop on full power, my other AB on the right side of me when I take pictures, and I still can't acheive the bright white effect I am looking for. I don't know what I am doing wrong. I did try using my new 85 mm, 1.4 lens and it seems to be a little brighter with that lens for some reason. My other lens is a 28-135mm lens. I usually shoot on a f-stop of 5.6. How high should I put my lights...usually take a lot of babies and toddlers so should I lower them to their level? Sorry for all the questions just can't seem to get it. I have tried just about everything I think of.....including dumping my continuous lights and now down to the two AB strobes. I have played around with the metering on my camera....don't see a difference. I will post a few pictures when I can get my other computer back from my kids, lol.
Thanks again

[RustySterling]

First of all make sure that your subject is well in front of the background. I have them no less than 4-feet in front of the background. Too close and they will block out the light. I've been placing my background light almost right against the background and shooting straight across. But like I said, I also have barn doors on it to help focus the light. I also have my light about 3 to 4 feet off the ground.

With the main light as you are using it, I usually have it 3 feet or so above the subject, three fee to the side of the subject, and 3 feet in front. It is angled downward with a soft box (you can do the same with an umbrella) and aimed at the subject. If you are keeping the main light low and aiming it straight onto the subject it's light could wash out the background light.

Your ABs should give you plenty of light AFAIC. They have the power. I can't figure out what you might be doing. But the shots I posted were shot with a 5D or 40D (can't remember which for each, since I used both bodies that day), f8 at 125th and I'm getting great light across the back. If I want less I dial it down. If I want more I dial it up. I'm also taking an incident meter reading from the subject nose for the main light to expose at f8.

For the background light, if you want 18% grey then you should get a reflective reading of f8 for the background. To be very white, you should get a reflective reading of f16 or higher from the background. If you have a meter that will fire you strobes, stand right up to the background with a reflective diaphragm on your meter. Point the diaphragm at the background (about 6" to 1' away) and take your reading firing the strobe.

How are you triggering the ABs during the shoot? And frankly, I 'd lose the continuous light and use the softbox on an AB for your main with a reflector opposite for fill, and use the other AB for the background light.