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Put your camera at ISO 100 and at your shutters sync speed (likely 1/250). Put your aperture at f/8. Now set the flash to 1/32 power and take a shot of something plain like a wall. Read the histogram. It should be underexposed. Crank the flash up to 1/4th or so power and take a shot again (without moving the flash or camera closer or farther away) Read the histogram. It should be a lot closer to middle grey. Keep adjusting the flash until you get a middle grey exposure. Then remember what setting the flash it at. Once you know, you can set your flash to that setting, and your camera to f/8 and always get a perfect exposure (as long as the distance from flash to subject is the same as the test)
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Are you sure they're not talking about setting your camera to those values? If you're using the TTL function of the flash, you would set the aperture on your camera. You use the aperture to control ambient light and the effective range of the flash. If you set the aperture small (ie f16) the effective range of your flash will be very small. If you set it wide open (ie f2.8), the effective range will be a lot further.
Last edited by Skyyton; 12-26-2009 at 03:28 PM. |
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Nope. They aren't using TTL. With off camera lighting, when you set the light to f/8, that means it is bright enough to give your camera a proper exposure at ISO 100, a high enough shutter like 1/180th and f/8. Usually there is a guide on the back of the flash to help you figure out how to set it to that level. http://www.mpex.com/graphics/LP120d5.jpg
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watch these Dean Collins behind the scenes clips Strobist: Five-Minute Portrait, Dean Collins Style Strobist: Back in The Day...
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My Pentax Photo Gallery | My 500px | My Photo Blog | My Picasa Albums K-5, K20D, Pentax DA 15mm f/4, Sigma 85mm f/1.4, SMC 50mm f/1.4, DA 18-55mm WR, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, SMC M 135mm f/3.5, Vivitar Auto-Extension Tubes, Metz 50 af-1, Yongnuo YN-560ii, Lumopro lp120, Cactus v4 |
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Canon 5D, 40D, 40D Infrared Conversion, Canon Glass 17-40mm F2.8 L, 50mm F1.4, 85mm F1.8, 70-200mm F2.8 L, 200mm F2.8 L, Speedlight Canon 580 EX, Light Meter Sekonic L758dr, Manfrotto tripods, studio lights, pocket wizards. |
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Sorry, I mentioned OCF but in this case, it didn't really effect the subject matter. You could be setting the flash on or off camera. But most pro's aren't using an on camera speedlight. They are using off camera studio strobes. I just started discussing that type of shooting since you are more likely to hear them "setting" the light to a certain f stop.
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My Pentax Photo Gallery | My 500px | My Photo Blog | My Picasa Albums K-5, K20D, Pentax DA 15mm f/4, Sigma 85mm f/1.4, SMC 50mm f/1.4, DA 18-55mm WR, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, SMC M 135mm f/3.5, Vivitar Auto-Extension Tubes, Metz 50 af-1, Yongnuo YN-560ii, Lumopro lp120, Cactus v4 |
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Canon 5D, 40D, 40D Infrared Conversion, Canon Glass 17-40mm F2.8 L, 50mm F1.4, 85mm F1.8, 70-200mm F2.8 L, 200mm F2.8 L, Speedlight Canon 580 EX, Light Meter Sekonic L758dr, Manfrotto tripods, studio lights, pocket wizards. |
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Emma - I'm by no means a flash guru, but the only time I've ever seen an aperture setting on a flash is with my wife's old Nikon (SB-10) flash. It has (basically) a circular slide rule that lets you set the "aperture" on the flash in relation to film speed and distance to subject. So, for example, if you set the flash to f5.6, then the aperture on the lens should also be set to f5.6. The "aperture" setting on the flash doesn't control the aperture on the lens - it's just a way to get the right power in the flash.
I assume that other, older flashes also have this same type of system for setting the power of the flash? And I don't think that your new Canon flash has any type of setting that will let you set the "aperture". If this is helpful, then I just got lucky. If not, I'm sure someone will correct me.
Last edited by Chip; 12-26-2009 at 11:52 PM. |
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