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i went for speedlights. they do three things at one price... 1. on camera 2. off camera in-home studio 3. off camera and on-location at best a monolight will do only two of those.. but at a high price... and at beginner level... you dont need the power. a monolight set-up will be vastly more expensive.. especially if you want to do on-location. one battery for one monolight costs more than my entire set-up of three strobes with stands and radiotriggers. i'd say go speedlight.. lern the tricks.. then upgrade. (edit) may i add the modelling light is a mute pro/con anyway. all you need to do with speedlights is fire a shot and chimp.. just look at the image preview... then adjust the light and composition/pose.
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http://www.flashpointphotography.co.nz/ Last edited by candleman; 11-22-2009 at 11:45 PM. |
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Speed lights they are cheep and mobile. If your going with ac strobes I would recomend getting good quality. Not some ebay kit.
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Cameras: Canon 60D, Canon 20D, 35mm Nikon FM2n Canon EF lens used : 50mm f1.8, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.5, 75-300mm f/4.5-5, 85mm f/1.8 Tamron Lens: 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Strobist: Canon 580EX II , "Vivitar DF400MZ, Nikon SB-24, LP-160(cactus v4/v5)" http://flickr.com/photos/bhursey | http://brianhurseyphotography.com |
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With modeling light and flash meter, you can visualize the result and nail the exposure quickly. The learning curve for basic lighting is shorter.
You can incorporate WB into the workflow using color meter for more accurate results . In the movie 'The Devil Wears Parda', Meryl Streep explains to Anne Hathaway that if a client hired you to shoot a cerulean blue sweater then it better came out as cerulean blue. While speedlights's cost of entry is lower but you have to spend more time on trial and error method (chimping) to get each setup right. Once you know your gears and techniques inside out then you can visualize the result from experience (e.g., Joe McNally). Have an open mind and learn both properly. |
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I have both studio light (3 lights) and portable shoe mounted strobes a al strobist. I do not have a dedicated studio room so putting up the studio lights is a production in and of itself. Light stands are bigger, heaver. Modifiers, light boxes, are bigger. Boom stands, counter weights, and a wall out let nearby...you get the idea. But I can light up anything and usually have more light that I could ever use. Plus there are a lot more light modifiers I can use with the big lights.
The portables are great for putting up and down quickly. They are batty powered so I can go in the back yard or the park, etc. The stands, brackets, and umbrellas are light weight. Downside is they have limited power. This may be a telling point and falls in line with Candleman's recommendation go go portables first: I had studio lights before ...got the 'strobist' buzz later when I wanted to do some location stuff. Now I find even at home if I need a quick light set up, the portables come out. |
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You can set speedlights manually just like monolights: your argument is invalid.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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I do know something about manual setting since I owned both Canon and Nikon eTTL/iTTL flashes besides my many sets of studio light and dozens of manual and auto flashes (Nikon, Braun, Rollei, Metz 60, 45, Vivitar 283, 285, 4600) from the old days. As I said in the previous post, have an open mind. What some beginners is doing today have been done by many of us long time ago. We had to face similar decisions, budget and learning too. Chimping is not new either. There was a thing called Polaroid Back. |
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Thanks for the responses. Modeling lights was one of the pros for Monolights. I'm still leaning to speedlites, again mostly because of cost.
I've also heard I should start with one light and learn that before moving on to multiple lights. I think though that once I convince my other half to buy lights I may not get another crack at it for awhile. So I'm thinking a two light and umbrella set. I would still have my SB600 I could use as a third light. All i would need is the trigger. I assume I could put a radio receiver on that using a shoe adapter. Since this is a hobby and not a profession..... Cost is a big big factor. If i go speedlites is the strobist set at Midwest the best way to go. Everything in one kit (and works toghter) or should I piece meal it
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As a man thinks, So he is. |
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I do have an open mind: I've had experience with both monolights and speedlights and chose the latter for my personal work because of their flexibility and portability. One of your main pros for monolights was that they could be set manually: i merely said that speedlights could as well. I dont need a lecture. I know very well that the techniques are not new: if they were, there wouldn't be nearly as much documentation on it. The thing is, though, that many find speedlights simply that much easier vs monolights, especially when it comes to learning them and, once theyve been perfected, using a light meter, you can basically use them like monos. I just dont appreciate the tone, is all.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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