Sigma EF-530 DG Super

[kuul13]

I am getting crazy with my " Sigma EF-530 DG Super" external flash. Sometimes when I am taking pictures of my daughter with this flash mounted on my Nikon D80, it doesn't fire at all. This happens when I am clicking continuously (more than one shot). I am not sure if it's just me (my lack of knowledge) or it's about the flash. Bottom line is that if I have mounted the flash to my camera, I want the flash to fire always - means always. How to make sure I get it right and what am I missing.

I would soon have a family photo shoot (unofficial) and I don't want this to happen there. I would appreciate if someone can give me some suggestion/tip or the work around.

[bhursey]

Your takeing pictures to fast for the flash to keep up. So the flash is not ready by the time you take the next shot. It will then not fire. Fresh bateries will make it fire quicker but you still are limited..

[Rentham]

You can improve the recycle rate by attaching a battery pack as well as lowering the flash output with a concurrent increase in ISO.

[inkista]

What they said.

Originally Posted by kuul13

I am getting crazy with my " Sigma EF-530 DG Super" external flash. Sometimes when I am taking pictures of my daughter with this flash mounted on my Nikon D80, it doesn't fire at all. This happens when I am clicking continuously (more than one shot). I am not sure if it's just me (my lack of knowledge) or it's about the flash.

In this case, I think it's lack of knowledge; not the flash. Burst shooting with a flash can be difficult to impossible, depending on how long the burst is and how high the flash output power is set. If you're not using ambient at all, but only illuminating by flash, it's going to be tough.

Bottom line is that if I have mounted the flash to my camera, I want the flash to fire always - means always. How to make sure I get it right and what am I missing.

What you're missing is that a flash takes time to recycle between bursts.

The only reason the flash can output a huge amount of light from dinky little AA batteries is that it can store up the charge in a big capacitor. Think of charge as water. Current as flowing water, and voltage as the water pressure pushing the water. AA batteries are relatively low on both voltage and current. So it's like turning on a tap to fill the tub. It takes a while to fill up the tub (capacitor).

On most flashes, a full-power recycle is going to take somewhere around the 5 second range, with freshly charged batteries (my YN-560 takes about 3 seconds, my 580EX about 7).

A lower-powered burst, however, won't empty out the capacitor completely. And the flash can recycle much more quickly. For burst shooting, I'd probably be down in the 1/16 power range, and I'd be limiting myself to short bursts. If you want to shoot long bursts continuously with the flash popping every time, you're probably going to have to be at your lowest power settings, which isn't going to be much illumination from the flash to work with.

I would soon have a family photo shoot (unofficial) and I don't want this to happen there. I would appreciate if someone can give me some suggestion/tip or the work around.

Easy. Don't shoot in burst mode. Wait for your flash to recycle between shots. That's why there's a little indicator light or beep on most flashes to let you know when it's ready to go again. We've all had to wait on it.

The trick to shooting Strobist style with speedlights is realizing your tool is underpowered, and to conserve that power and use it to best effect whenever you can. Ambient lighting is going to be your great helper, here. Letting the ambient light source do most of the heavy lifting, and balancing your flash more as fill can help reduce the power output requirements to manageable levels. To increase the ambient portion of the lighting, increase your iso and/or open up the aperture. If you're using TTL, the flash output should be automatically adjusted to be the same. If you're using manual flash, just count up the number of stops you added and lower the flash power by that many stops (i.e., halving the power => 1 stop).

[ccting]

I am facing the same problem too.. So, i have thought of...

SB900 - 5 continuous fire; nissin di622 mark 2 4 continuous fire within 1 second.
YN465 --> 2 in 1 second.

Use Eneeloop batteres with full charge... I believe they are more powerful than normal alkaline batteries that provide less recycle time. Perhaps using external power?
;D

Lets assume YN560 have 3s recycle time at full power. Assume we have switchover electrical switch that can be used, then with 3 speedlights mounted on camera bracket, the recycle time for each YN560 can be reduced by 3/3 = 1s.

But does this kind of switchover available for hotshoe? Currently i only see dual TTL off-camera cord.. ;D

Perhaps, using dual off-TTL off-camera cord, you can reduce the power of each speedlight, thus improving the recycle time? or is there any load-balancing device?

Or perhaps, using TTL wireless triggers, have 4 speedlights mounted on camera, which reducing the power by 4 times.. thus increasing the recycle time..

Sry i am just a noob.. only ideal opinion that might not work. I don't shoot at that high frequency. Perhaps 1 pic per 3-4 minutes.

[kuul13]

Originally Posted by bhursey

Your takeing pictures to fast for the flash to keep up. So the flash is not ready by the time you take the next shot. It will then not fire. Fresh bateries will make it fire quicker but you still are limited..

Ah, that makes sense but while taking pictures with kids you need a faster recycle rate. Thanks for the comment though.

Originally Posted by Rentham

You can improve the recycle rate by attaching a battery pack as well as lowering the flash output with a concurrent increase in ISO.

Thanks Rentham, I will try that.

[kuul13]

Originally Posted by inkista

What they said.


In this case, I think it's lack of knowledge; not the flash. Burst shooting with a flash can be difficult to impossible, depending on how long the burst is and how high the flash output power is set. If you're not using ambient at all, but only illuminating by flash, it's going to be tough.


What you're missing is that a flash takes time to recycle between bursts.

The only reason the flash can output a huge amount of light from dinky little AA batteries is that it can store up the charge in a big capacitor. Think of charge as water. Current as flowing water, and voltage as the water pressure pushing the water. AA batteries are relatively low on both voltage and current. So it's like turning on a tap to fill the tub. It takes a while to fill up the tub (capacitor).

On most flashes, a full-power recycle is going to take somewhere around the 5 second range, with freshly charged batteries (my YN-560 takes about 3 seconds, my 580EX about 7).

A lower-powered burst, however, won't empty out the capacitor completely. And the flash can recycle much more quickly. For burst shooting, I'd probably be down in the 1/16 power range, and I'd be limiting myself to short bursts. If you want to shoot long bursts continuously with the flash popping every time, you're probably going to have to be at your lowest power settings, which isn't going to be much illumination from the flash to work with.


Easy. Don't shoot in burst mode. Wait for your flash to recycle between shots. That's why there's a little indicator light or beep on most flashes to let you know when it's ready to go again. We've all had to wait on it.

The trick to shooting Strobist style with speedlights is realizing your tool is underpowered, and to conserve that power and use it to best effect whenever you can. Ambient lighting is going to be your great helper, here. Letting the ambient light source do most of the heavy lifting, and balancing your flash more as fill can help reduce the power output requirements to manageable levels. To increase the ambient portion of the lighting, increase your iso and/or open up the aperture. If you're using TTL, the flash output should be automatically adjusted to be the same. If you're using manual flash, just count up the number of stops you added and lower the flash power by that many stops (i.e., halving the power => 1 stop).

inkista, your comment is so well written and makes every sense. Thanks for an elaborated and helpful comment. I knew it would be me and not the flash I guess I was trying hard to make the flash work overtime and was not giving enough breathing time to it. I checked the recycle time for this model and found to be 15.5 seconds with new batteries. I guess I need to atleast wait for 16 seconds before taking next shot. I will try this and see if it makes any difference. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Great to learn something new from you guys.

[kuul13]

Originally Posted by ccting

I am facing the same problem too.. So, i have thought of...

SB900 - 5 continuous fire; nissin di622 mark 2 4 continuous fire within 1 second.
YN465 --> 2 in 1 second.

Use Eneeloop batteres with full charge... I believe they are more powerful than normal alkaline batteries that provide less recycle time. Perhaps using external power?
;D

Lets assume YN560 have 3s recycle time at full power. Assume we have switchover electrical switch that can be used, then with 3 speedlights mounted on camera bracket, the recycle time for each YN560 can be reduced by 3/3 = 1s.

But does this kind of switchover available for hotshoe? Currently i only see dual TTL off-camera cord.. ;D

Perhaps, using dual off-TTL off-camera cord, you can reduce the power of each speedlight, thus improving the recycle time? or is there any load-balancing device?

Or perhaps, using TTL wireless triggers, have 4 speedlights mounted on camera, which reducing the power by 4 times.. thus increasing the recycle time..

Sry i am just a noob.. only ideal opinion that might not work. I don't shoot at that high frequency. Perhaps 1 pic per 3-4 minutes.

Thanks for your input.

[bhursey]

Originally Posted by kuul13

Ah, that makes sense but while taking pictures with kids you need a faster recycle rate. Thanks for the comment though.


Thanks Rentham, I will try that.

I fully understand I have a 3 year old.

Really your limited by the way a hot shoe flash is. So if you bump up the iso needing less flash power you can take pictures quicker. Also use Nickle Mettal Hydried bateries they allow for the capacitor on the flash to draw power quicker than alkilines.

[kuul13]

Originally Posted by bhursey

I fully understand I have a 3 year old.

Really your limited by the way a hot shoe flash is. So if you bump up the iso needing less flash power you can take pictures quicker. Also use Nickle Mettal Hydried bateries they allow for the capacitor on the flash to draw power quicker than alkilines.

Thanks Bhursey! I will try bumping the ISO and see the results. NiMH is what I use.