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For me it would be bounced on-camera flash the majority of the time. You never quite know what the couple is going to do in terms of head position. I find the ability to change the light source on the fly to be valuable. Off camera flashes can be nice for accent, though.
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Sometimes KISS works best
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Scott |
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I would probably be looking to use on camera but with a bounce card (rogue flash bender) or mini soft box (lumniQuest).... And either could be removed/stowed quickly. The flash bender is particularly nice/versatile for the money
The problem with cieling/wall bounce is it eats up a lot of power (or at least a lot more) and lights up everything.... That's not always good. BTW, "on camera" could mean on a bracket, but I don't have one anymore....
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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![]() In this example, a bounce card was used, and you can see the shadows caused by forward thrown flash. It did mean I shot at ISO 400 f/5.6 ![]() Same venue..... year later & more wisdom under the belt. This was just bounced off the ceiling. so I did need to go ISO 800 f/5.... but no shadows. I obviously have better first dance pictures of each couple, but I wanted to show both against a similar wall in the same venue. If you are using a bounce card, you really need to know what is behind the subject, how well it will exemplify the shadow, and exactly how amazingly far you can throw a shadow (which grows in size as it travels). The Demb flipit card is pretty good, as it is hinged and you can flip it out of the way when you would be throwing shadows with it. Might not be a bad idea as you can have the choice.
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Scott |
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Well said, Scott. I'm happy to eat the extra power for bounced flash. I can get through most receptions with 4AAs in the flash itself and 8 AAs in an attached battery pack bouncing 100% of the time, usually at +1/3 or +2/3 FEC.
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I most commonly use an off camera flash for back or sidelighting combined with an on-camera flash bouncing up or if there is a white wall that I can hit even better to bounce behind or to the side.
First example is extreme to illustrate what I am talking about... 0959.jpg The second one is more subtle but the highlights from the second light (to the right of the frame) really adds dimension and depth to the image. reception lighting 1.jpg Or this oldie but goodie... 6a00df35204ab78833010536a8a8a9970c-640wi.jpg |
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Scott, in your bounced shot it looks like the flash is too hot and could have been pulled back some.
Probably a stop or more. Of course, you might also have to bump the ISO up as well in order to dial back the flash enough. Nice thing about the card/bender is you can simply fold it out of the way and go to straight bounce if you choose. Or it can be used so that a large portion of the light still goes "ambient" to bounce off surrounding surfaces. Used that way you get bounce to help "ambient" and card for fill (kind of like the reverse bounce, but with much less loss). Or it can be used as primary light...but then you get into the harsh lighting effects and you need to dial the flash down and open up aperture/boost ISO. Most just point the flash up and put the card in front at 45*....that's the worst way to use one. Don't do it unless you absolutely have to. FWIW, I don't like the shiny (plastic) cards, they can be much harsher.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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