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Call me old school. For that matter, call me old, but I want a handheld meter. I don't really trust the camera's metering system. It's great when it's working just right, but I'm not convinced that I know exactly what I'm metering. "Center weighted" doesn't tell me how wide the "center" is ... and "spot" leaves the area undefined too.
I miss my old Weston Master 5, but it's long gone. What do people use these days? I'm sure that I am not the only one who likes to take specific readings ... so the question is, what do folks use? The technology is so different from what it was i don't know quite what to make of it! |
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I don't have one, but I do know several photographers that swear by the Sekonic L-358.
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I have a Sekonic L-308S.
It's a good meter, and has the ability to measure flash exposures. The main disadvantage compared to the the Weston Master V is that it needs a battery and you have to trn it on (It's been a long time since I used my Weston Master V). Mine sees little use because of I am very happy with using my camera's metering system, with some exposure compensation etc dialed in if need be, and the histogram for those difficult exposures.
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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358 is a good choice. For a basic meter that will also do flash: the L308s
I have a 308 - primarily for metering flash or calculating lighting ratios... Sekonic-Exposure Meters-Color Meters-Illuminometers |
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I got a used (great condition, I believe) Sekonic 358M, the old Studio Master (no battery), probably because I am old and nostalgic and besides, I actually know how to USE it. I found the instructions for it online in PDF form at Sekonic's website.
I figure this particular meter was THE standard for about 40 years, it would probably do what I need which is give me the ability to "walk the scene" and see how the light is playing. I am highly amused at it's total like of electronics. It is ALL mechanical with a photocell. Short of dropping it off a cliff or running over it with your truck, it should be more or less indestructible. I wish I could say the same of me! Happy weekend all! |
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The Sekonic website you linked to is a gold mine of information, by the way. Everything you need to know is there in English, Japanese or Urdu. Like a museum of Light! |
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I often feel battered by batteries. My entire life runs on batteries. Should there be no more batteries or rechargers, at least I will still be able to measure light. To what purpose I am not the least sure. I'm happy with my camera's metering except when I'm not. With a handheld in a complicated lighting situation where there is lots of contrast, shade, light, water, trees and maybe throw in a human or two to add to the fun, you can "walk the scene" with a meter and get a good feeling for what you have to do in the way of shooting and bracketing. Which is just what this old meter was born to do. |
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Cool, I was gonna recommend something else before I read this thread (I.e.) off the title...
I use an old gossen Luna Pro - absolultely great for incident readings, which I sometimes prefer. For what you're looking for, I think there's good choices mentioned above
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I love my Sekonic L-358. I have the optional module to trigger my pocket wizards and it works great. Highly recommended if you really want to nail a consistent exposure.
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Web Site: GreggObst.com Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/greggobst/ Photo generalist, eternal student of light. Devout follower of Saints McNally, Hobby, Arias and Kelby. |
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I don't know about Oympus, but on my Nikons I could always set the diameter of the "center weighted".....Spot is SPOT, one sensor only.
If I want an incident reading I can put a cheap W/B cap on my lens and use the camera.....But I almost never do. The only reason I can see for a handheld is for studio/strobe work...and a couple test shots negates that need (which you'll probably take anyways)
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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