Fill flash with non High Speed Sync Flashes..

[gs.davies]

So, further to my post in another part of the forums, I have my first wedding gig on April 30th, and I've found a gaping hole in my arsenal of techniques; I can't do fill flash!
I have a 5D, good lenses etc but my flash guns aren't up to scratch.
I'm expecting good weather, bright light, probably almost sunny 16 conditions. Trouble is, I'm going to really need minimal DOF to lose the rather ugly surroundings and there is quite a bit of dappled shade to deal with.

My flashgun is a Jessop 360AFDC, or a Vivtar 285HV which I usually use off camera for strobist kind of stuff when I can't be bothered to cart my studio heads around.

Clipping the Jessops flash on limits the shutter speed to 1/200 on the 5D body and I cannot override this, even with having the flash in manual mode. I can exceed 1/200 with the trusty old Vivitar but it means setting manual flash exposure which brings me to the question;

- If I'm shooting at say, ISO50, f2.8, 1/2000 (so five stops wider aperture than sunny 16 - dependant on meter readings on the day) and I set the Vivitar flash to give fill to get rid of any shaded areas on the faces/outfits of the subjects (i'm comfortable with manual flash, just not under the pressure situation of a wedding...) and can get it to fire(!), will I get the same effect as High Speed Sync which I understand to be a series of closely timed smaller bursts?

Obviously I will be testing the theory that it DOES work fully, but any experiences anyone could share with me here might make the learning curve that bit less steep are very very welcome!

Note to self, add a 580EX to the shopping list...

Thanks all,
Gary

[zona5101]

Originally Posted by gs.davies

I can exceed 1/200 with the trusty old Vivitar

??? If this is happening it is because your camera doesn't recognize the flash is on board.

If I'm shooting at say, ISO50, f2.8, 1/2000 and I set the Vivitar flash to give fill ... will I get the same effect as High Speed Sync?

No. You may get some fill effect but only on the segment of the sensor that is open when the flash fires. It will not be even flash exposure over the entire frame. Depending on the orientation of the camera, the additional flash exposure may not even be where you want it.

Note to self, add a 580EX to the shopping list...

yes - or rent one!

[gs.davies]

Originally Posted by zona5101

??? If this is happening it is because your camera doesn't recognize the flash is on board.

No. You may get some fill effect but only on the segment of the sensor that is open when the flash fires. It will not be even flash exposure over the entire frame. Depending on the orientation of the camera, the additional flash exposure may not even be where you want it.


yes - or rent one!

No, it doesn't recognise the flash is on board - there's only the central pin present on old flashes like the 285HV (yes, i've checked the trigger voltage is safe), so because the TTL pins are blank it doesn't recognise it.

So, I'll still get some of the 'black line effect' then - realise that now having thought it through, though of course, I'll get a darker spot where the ambient isn't affected by flash.

I'll look at renting a decent gun for the event - otherwise, I'll work on my reflector technique if all else fails. Or shoot at f16 :-(

*prays for overcast weather*

[scootermcq]

I very seldom use high sync..... mainly because it sucks the power out of the flashes.

Try a ND filter. A 4 or 6 stop filter will do wonders for opening up the aperture

Shade vrs Fill flash

[bhursey]

I don't think your gonna be able to expose some one with a single speed light at 50iso and f16.... You need allot more power then you have.. Basically you need to get a ND filter, 580EXII, still gonna be hard on bright days even with HSS, or like 3+ flashes to help over power the sun. I would recommend shade. You may just have to deal with the sky being blown out. I normally put them in the shade under a tree or something and fill at 1/250 f5.6 or 6.3 at 100iso.. Note I have a 20d it syncs at 1/250 you would have to be at 1/200.

Or you could rent a AB1600 with a bat pack and over power the sun. at like f16..

You have ran into the issue that all people with flash do. This is why people bay big bucks for flashes and stobes.. Ever think of using a reflector?

[gs.davies]

Originally Posted by bhursey

You have ran into the issue that all people with flash do. This is why people bay big bucks for flashes and stobes.. Ever think of using a reflector?

Yep, looks like a few ND's might be the answer as suggested earlier until funds allow for a better strobe. I have a reflector but only the one pair of hands; I'll try it anyway.

There's some shady areas at the venue, they're just not that photogenic unfortunately, nor is the building itself. I'll be aiming for bride and groom in the expanse of countryside.

Hopefully it'll be typical English weather... ;-)

GD.

PS, b&g planning on putting the money shots onto wallpaper for their lounge...

[bhursey]

Just remember the nd filter from my understanding also knocks some light out from your flash. Really there is no win win.. Its compromise. I have yet to try the nd filter method but let me know how it does. From what I read get a high quality nd filter..

[candleman]

Originally Posted by bhursey

Just remember the nd filter from my understanding also knocks some light out from your flash. Really there is no win win.. Its compromise. I have yet to try the nd filter method but let me know how it does. From what I read get a high quality nd filter..

If you open up the Aperture, by the corresponding number of ND stops, the flash power is not affected.

[gs.davies]

Thanks for all your help and advice, that's what I love about this forum!

Problem solved thanks to CameraWorld in Chelmsford - a very clean and tidy 550ex has been added to the camera bag. High Speed Sync is now available as well as some other new tricks to try (I shall have fun with the stroboscopic flash settings!)

Next up, some of those nice Cokin filters..

Never ending isn't it?!