Canon DSLRs and Wireless Flash

[McB!]

Hey folks. I've been lurking on these pages for a while, but this is my first post. You all seem like a friendly, helpful bunch, so I was wondering if you'd be willing to help me with something.

I reckon I'm a fairly competent photographer when it comes to shooting in whatever light is available. I've learned a lot over the past couple of years, and so far I've been happy with my work. I recently bought a 580EX II, along with a flash extension cord for my Canon 30D. Again, I've been happy with my results, but I'm realising there's only so much I can do hand-holding my flash. I've been asked to shoot a wedding later this year and I want to try and raise my game a little bit. I've been looking into going wireless but the whole area just seems like a minefield to me right now.

Give or take, I've looked at about a gajillion websites, but the information on offer seems to differ wildly from one page to the next. Either that or the advice is outdated, or laden with acronyms and technical jargon that I can't even begin to grasp right now. A lot of people seem to regard strobist.com as the place to go for flash enthusiasts, but I got the impression that it's "Lighting 101' pages were geared more towards Nikon users rather than Canon.

I guess what I'd like to know is what would be the best way for me to go wireless, being a Canon user? Although I'd like to do this fairly cheaply, I'm not against spending a little extra money if it's well-invested in quality equipment. Basically, I just want to be able to get my flash far away from my camera when I need to. From my research, here's what I've been able to gather (please correct me if I'm wrong):

- Nikon users have an easier time with wireless flash than Canon users (something to do with PC jacks, maybe?)
- To go wireless I'll need at least two external flashes, a master and a slave.
- PocketWizards seem to come highly recommended, but they're pricey. If I choose this method, I'll need at least three - a transmitter, and one for each flash.
- There are cheaper alternatives to PocketWizards, but they can sometimes be unreliable?

Am I on the right track here, or just rambling like a madman? I have a lot of questions, too:

- Is there a better or cheaper-but-just-as-effective method that I should be considering?
- Is it possible to go wireless with just one external flash?
- If not, can I still get decent results with cheaper slave flashes (using the 580EX II as a master)?
- I'm hoping to upgrade from my 30D to a 5D Mk. II by the end of the year. Should that influence what equipment I should get?

I realise this is a long post with a lot to take in, but if anyone has even the smallest piece of advice they could give me I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you!

[i speak in math]

Do you need ttl? That is, do you want the flash to automatically choose its exposure or do you want to control the lighting? If you need ttl, then something more expensive like radio poppers jr will be necessary. If you want to control the lighting yourself, then something very cheap like cactus v5's will work.

Either way, simply place the receiving unit on the flash's hot shoe and the other in the cameras hot shoe. Then shoot away. No need for 2 flashes and 3 transceivers.

[dlambert]

I think you're on the right track. Off-camera flashes can be triggered optically or by radio, and to trigger by radio, you'll either need:

• A camera that can trigger a remote flash and one or more remote-capable flashes. This gets pricey for Canon users because the cheapest camera that can control a flash is the 7D.
• A flash that can act as a master, mounted on-camera (or attached by a cord), and one or more remote flashes. Also sort of pricey, because the cheapest flash that can act as a master is the 580EX.
• A remote kit like the Pocket Wizard, with one or more flashes. Note that with these kits, you use a transmitter on your camera and a receiver wherever your flash is, so you don't necessarily have a flash on your camera, and you can use multiple off-camera flashes. There's another brand of remote trigger called Cactus that people seem to have pretty good luck with, too (search "cactus v4" or "cactus v5").
• Finally, you can trigger an off-camera flash optically, but I wouldn't rely on this in your case because you've got to have line-of-sight to wherever your remote flash is, and anyone else who takes a flash picture will also trigger your flash, which is sort of inconvenient.

One of the biggest considerations for Canon off-camera flash equipment is whether you want to keep full E-TTL capability with your remote flash, or if you'll control it manually. If you want to keep E-TTL, you'll need to go w/ higher-end equipment (the PW remotes support E-TTL, but the Cactus remotes don't, for example). On the other hand, you should absolutely be able to get started with a Cactus v5 transmitter & remote and a LumoPro LP-160 flash.

[inkista]

Originally Posted by McB!

... From my research, here's what I've been able to gather (please correct me if I'm wrong):

- Nikon users have an easier time with wireless flash than Canon users (something to do with PC jacks, maybe?)

Yes, Nikon users have it easier, but now that Canon has put wireless flash masters into the built-in flashes on the 60D, 7D, and 1D Mark IV, this is changing. The two big advantages the Nikon flash system had was CLS commanders in the prosumer and pro bodies' built-in/pop-up flash, and SU-4 mode in their upper-tier speedlights (a dumb optical slave built in).

But generally speaking, nearly all of what you can achieve with Nikon equipment can also be done with Canon equipment.

- To go wireless I'll need at least two external flashes, a master and a slave.

Only if you want to use Canon's wireless proprietary signalling system. (i.e., you want eTTL). If you're willing to go Strobist and all-manual, you only need a set of cheap radio triggers, like the Cactus V5s or Yongnuo RF-603s. About $60 for a two transceiver set, iirc.

- PocketWizards seem to come highly recommended, but they're pricey. If I choose this method, I'll need at least three - a transmitter, and one for each flash.

Only if you want to get both speedlights off camera, otherwise, you only need a transmitter and trasnceiver (assuming we're talking the TTL-capable units). The PW TTL-capable units can also act as an independent master on the hotshoe. But if you were using RadioPopper PXs, you'd need one transceiver unit per flash.

I know. It's a mess. Don't worry, I'll break it down for you a little further down this post.

- There are cheaper alternatives to PocketWizards, but they can sometimes be unreliable?

Yes. But for hobby shooters, without clients breathing over their shoulders, this may be worth it for the price difference alone. And there is a rock-solid mid-range alternative, which are the Paul C. Buff "cybersync" triggers. These are in the $120 per Tx/Rx set price range, and also have added advantages if you go with the Buff monolights (AlienBees, WhiteLightnings, Einsteins) in a studio setup.

- Is there a better or cheaper-but-just-as-effective method that I should be considering?

Yes. The Cactus V5 or Yongnuo Rf-603 radio triggers. They bypass the whole PC port issue by connecting to the flash and camera hotshoes, but can both be used with PC or other sync cords if you want. They're reliable enough for hobby use and very inexpensive. Most of us use these to get toe into the Strobist pond.

- Is it possible to go wireless with just one external flash?

Yes. The cheap radio triggers can act as a "dumb" master on the camera hotshoe: i.e., it can tell the flash to fire. However, you will have to use the flash in Manual mode (distinct from the camera's Manual mode), and dial the power level of the flash in on the flash's back LCD.

- If not, can I still get decent results with cheaper slave flashes (using the 580EX II as a master)?

It depends. Typically, if you're using very cheap manual flashes as slaves (i.e., non-Canon EX units), the only way you'll be able to trigger them without using cords or radio triggers will be dumb optical slaves. Which means you'll always have on-axis light coming from the 580EX II on the hotshoe. And you'll still have line-of-sight and range issues.

With light-based signalling systems, such as "dumb" optical slaves, or the smarter TTL-capable proprietary systems used by Canon/Nikon, the sensor on the flash has to "see" the signal coming from the master flash. That means it needs an unobstructed view. You can't put the flash inside a box. You can't put it behind a door, unless there's a handy reflective surface somewhere nearby. These optical systems work best indoors in a studio-type setting. Once you go outdoors, there are no walls to bounce off, and any sunlight can overpower the flash signal.

And with "dumb" optical slaves, all they do is see-flash-fire-flash. And by "see flash" I mean any flash. Anybody with a P&S camera walking by can set off your lights if you're using dumb optical slaves.

This is why radio slaves are preferred: range, reliability, no line-of-sight requirements and you can select the channel you're operating on. You just have to worry about radio interference.

I'm hoping to upgrade from my 30D to a 5D Mk. II by the end of the year. Should that influence what equipment I should get?

Yes. You don't want any gear that's going to rely on using a pop-up flash, because the 5D Mark II doesn't have one.

Ok. The big clarification, and the one acronym you've been seeing a lot: eTTL.

e-TTL II in the Canon system is a catchall phrase that covers a lot of different functionality. One is the Canon equivalent of Nikon's CLS system: that is, the Canon proprietary light-based signalling system. That's the one where you need a master on the camera (or in the camera's pop-up flash), and you get all the other eTTL-related goodies.

e-TTL II also means the ability of the camera body to automatically set the flash's power output level based upon TTL (through-the-lens) metering. This is the flash analog to having Av mode on your camera. It's automatic, it's fast, and while it won't be exact or consistent (because metering changes as you change what's in the frame), it'll likely be good-enough-for-jazz. And for event shooting, when you're doing run'n'gun shooting, it's probably essential.

Additional abilities that eTTL gives you is high-speed sync (where you can use a shutter speed faster than your camera body's max. sync speed, typically 1/250s or 1/200s), and remote commanding of the flash (i.e., if you're using the Canon wireless system, you can set the power on a remote flash from the camera's LCD--you don't have to walk up to the flash and mess with it. Which can be useful if you've, say, set up the flash over a basketball hoop in a gym).

Furthermore, the Mark II EX speedlights can be completely controlled from the camera body menus instead of the flash's LCD. This can be a really big help if you're ever going to mess with the flash's Custom Functions.

If you want to maintain any of these eTTL functions, and you're on a budget, you'll be limited to non-radio triggering methods. The cheapest way is to use a TTL-capable sync cord (one that connects hotshoe-to-hotshoe, vs. sync port to sync port).

If you go with the cheap radio triggers, you're stuck at or below your max sync speed, you have to set the power on the flash, and you have to use the flash in Manual mode. These aren't insurmountable issues.

But if you want eTTL over radio, then there are currently on three radio triggers that can convey this information: RadioPopper PXs (not to be confused with the RP JrX units), which bridge the light signal over radio (which is why you still need a master EX unit to use them), the PocketWizard Flex-TT5 transceiver and Mini-TT1 transmitter (again, not to be confused with the Plus II or MultiMax units, which are not TTL capable, but manual-only). And the Pixel Knight triggers, of which I know nothing else.

[nickbedford]

A young photographer I know does a lot of band shoots and whatnot and he swears by the two Yongnuo flashes and RF-602 transceiver system.

I've got a single YN-560 flash unit and RF-602 on the way. They're so cheap but they're used by many photographers.

$110 for a big ass wireless strobe!

[McB!]

This has all been exceptionally helpful. Seriously. I doff my hat to you.

From what you've said, it does seem like my best choice would be to go with either the Cactus V5 or Yongnuo radio triggers. I usually shoot all-manual with flash anyway, so it shouldn't be too hard to adjust to. For the wedding, I'm going to scope out the venue beforehand and take some practice shots, so hopefully I'll have a good idea of what settings I need when it comes time to shoot the formals.

Inkista - thank you for taking the time to write such an in-depth response. Not one of the other sites I looked at even came close to summing it all up quite so clearly.

And again, thank you everyone. You're awesome to the max.

[bhursey]

Originally Posted by McB!

This has all been exceptionally helpful. Seriously. I doff my hat to you.

From what you've said, it does seem like my best choice would be to go with either the Cactus V5 or Yongnuo radio triggers. I usually shoot all-manual with flash anyway, so it shouldn't be too hard to adjust to. For the wedding, I'm going to scope out the venue beforehand and take some practice shots, so hopefully I'll have a good idea of what settings I need when it comes time to shoot the formals.

Inkista - thank you for taking the time to write such an in-depth response. Not one of the other sites I looked at even came close to summing it all up quite so clearly.

And again, thank you everyone. You're awesome to the max.

Keep an eye on reviews and forums a bunch of people who own the RF-602 and just bought the cactus v5 are selling their RF-602s because they love the v5. One guy even sold most of his Pocket Wizards Plus II's and bought like 7 cactus v5 transceivers..

My review is here:

Cactus V5 Duo Review – Brian Hursey Photography

[McB!]

Originally Posted by bhursey

Keep an eye on reviews and forums a bunch of people who own the RF-602 and just bought the cactus v5 are selling their RF-602s because they love the v5. One guy even sold most of his Pocket Wizards Plus II's and bought like 7 cactus v5 transceivers..

My review is here:

Cactus V5 Duo Review – Brian Hursey Photography

This is very informative. I think you've sold me on them.

Thank you!

[CBabcock]

Originally Posted by McB!

Inkista - thank you for taking the time to write such an in-depth response. Not one of the other sites I looked at even came close to summing it all up quite so clearly.

I agree. This has been very informative as I own a 30D and the 5DMII and am currently looking for additional flashes. I use my 550EX with Cowboy Studio Tx/Rx, but have to adjust everything manually. What a p.i.t.a. that is. Looking for an eTTL system to use with the 5D. I think have found a starting point for my research.
Thanks so much.