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The biggest thing that didn't occur to me that I've often wished I had, (but don't shoot outside enough to buy now) is some sandbags for your lightstand. However, for the stage you're at, go ahead and get yourself a nifty fifty. Those extra stops you're missing off your kit lens will open up more than you'd imagine.
Then come back and I'll apologize for jumpstarting your LBA.
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But Mom, Pentax IS rebellious Pentax K-7, K20D Pentax SMCP-FA 35mm f/2.0 AL -- Pentax SMC 50mm f/1.7 -- Pentax DA 50-200mm f/4-5.6 ED -- Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 EX DG IF Aspherical -- Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 WR |
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If you're getting a speedlight, softbox, and triggers, make sure you also get a lightstand and umbrella swivel. Or at least the umbrella swivel so you can attach the speedlight/softbox/trigger to something (monopod, tripod, clamp, etc.) to hold your light in place for you.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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A "nifty fifty" is a fast 50mm prime lens. Typically, the EF 50mm f/1.8 II (which I personally think of as the "Thrifty Fifty." To me the EF 50mm f/1.4 USM is the nifty fifty, but people differ on this usage).
The main virtues of the 50mm f/1.8 II are a) it's cheapness--it's about $100. And b) its wide maximum aperture: f/1.8. Your 18-55 IS kit lens's maximum aperture is f/3.5-5.6. That is, when it's set at its widest to 18mm, it can only open up as wide as f/3.5, and when it's set to its longest (zoomed all the way in) to 55mm, it can only open up to f/5.6. These are relatively "slow"/narrow aperture settings. The 50/1.8 can open all the way up to f/1.8. Compared to the kit lens @55mm, that's 3.3 stops wider. Which may not seem like a lot, until you understand that a stop is a doubling of the light. So 3.3 stops ten times the amount of light. With the 50mm f/1.8 wide open, vs. the kit lens @55mm wide open, you could use an iso setting that's one-tenth the one you'd use on the kit lens, or a shutter speed that's 10 times faster, and you'd get the same exposure. In short, a larger max. aperture gives you a lot more wiggle room when it comes to light. It will also get you a much shallower DoF, so you have to pay attention to your autofocus system. But creamy dreamy background blur is much easier to get with a lens that's got a max. aperture of f/2.8 or larger. Also, it's a prime, or a fixed focal length lens. It doesn't zoom. You have to run around a lot more with it than with a zoom lens. This actually isn't a handicap when you're starting out, because it will force you to walk around, and to start contemplating composition by camera position. If you're going to get nearer, then maybe you'll take a step to the side, or climb up on a bunch, or kneel down. Zooms tend to short-circuit your compositional sense down to simply twisting the zoom ring, without necessarily contemplating your angle of attack first. Primes are also much simpler lenses than zooms. They're older in design. And they're much easier to optimize because the designer only has to worry about a single focal length. Primes tend to be smaller, lighter, cheaper, and sharper than their zoom counterparts, as well as having larger max. apertures. The 50/1.8 II, despite being a cheap lens in a plastic mount, is still going to be sharper than your 18-55. For most of us, a fast prime lens is an even more basic piece of equipment than a flash (let alone off-camera flash), especially for portraiture. Take a look at this thread: 50mm Prime only challenge thread. As for the Strobist gear, I'd recommend this youtube video:
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Agreed! Before investing in lighting, get yourself a reflector and learn how to use it. That and the 50mm f/1.8 will give you excellent results outdoors. About 90% of my outdoor portraits are done with my 50mm & reflector, I've never used OCF outdoors.
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