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A few simple things to remember:
1) The meter in the camera is not as smart as you 2) The meter will try to reproduce everything at 18% gray 3) That said, pure black will come out looking gray, and pure white will also come out looking gray. 4) Because of number 3 above, black items that are dominant in a photo will be overexposed, (to gray) as will all else in the photo. As for white items, as in snow, bright beach sand, and wedding dresses, they too, will be rendered as gray...or muddy white. 5) The solution to number 4 above is to underexpose when there's a lot of black/dark items in the photo (limos, tuxedos, animals, etc) and to overexpose when there's a lot of white/bright subject matter. If you want snow to look white, you will need to overexpose the image. In either case, one to two stops is usually enough. 6) Remember, any exposure changes over, or under will also effect your other subjects in the image...so, those are the times that you may need to make some decisions as to what in your composition is most important, and possibly consider use of flash or a reflector. Overexposed snow or beach sand may look great, but the kids standing in it will wind up blown out...not good. Your first image above is very backlit. The camera's meter will make an exposure decision based on all the ambient light it's seeing, and therefore underexpose your subject. Your choices here are to use fill flash (or reflector) which will maintain your background part of the image...or you can spot meter off your subject which will blow out your background, but render OK on your subject. Hope this helps... Vinnie
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com Last edited by autofocus; 10-08-2010 at 03:04 AM. |
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Just one thing, in your second shot, the flash is actually doing what it's supposed to. It's the flare you're getting from shooting straight into the sun that's washing the picture out.
Hoods are good things.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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Look carefully at your 1st and 3rd shots. In the first, your boy's face takes up what, 5% of the frame? While in the third his face takes up about 50% of the frame. Your camera can provide a much more accurate exposure for something that fills up half the frame versus a tiny portion. |
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The other issue you're having here is that when you use the fill flash, the shutter speed automatically drops to the sync speed of 1/200
Between 1 and 2, you're going from: 1/800, iso 200, f/1.8 to 1/200, iso 200, f/2.8. So while you're dropping one stop (well, 1 1/3) in aperture, you're gaining 2 stops in shutter speed. So you're still over exposed.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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thank you all for your thoughtful replies. i feel a little clearer now.
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now may i ask what you all make of this "expose to the right" idea (as in Expose Right) would i be doing that here? esp in the first shot ? i have been savings raws and jpegs for each shot... |
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Not necessarily. The camera will set the shutter speed to any speed SLOWER than 1/200. The camera can only sync the shutter to the flash up to 1/200s, but any slower speed also works.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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As a well spent day brings happy sleep, a well spent life brings happy death. |
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Remember, photography like so many other things in life, is an ongoing learning experience, and we all can learn from each other's experience regardless of how long you've been doing it.
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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