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| View Poll Results: Use of a light meter | |||
| lol! light meter is for oldies, this is 2010...histogram does it for me |
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4 | 44.44% |
| always use it |
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2 | 22.22% |
| would like one when I have some surplus $ |
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3 | 33.33% |
| light what? |
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0 | 0% |
| Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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Use a lower shutter speed like 1/100 or 1/60 or so it will bring more of the background ambient light in. Remember Aperture controls flash , shutter speed controls ambient.
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Cameras: Canon 60D, Canon 20D, 35mm Nikon FM2n Canon EF lens used : 50mm f1.8, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.5, 75-300mm f/4.5-5, 85mm f/1.8 Tamron Lens: 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Strobist: Canon 580EX II , "Vivitar DF400MZ, Nikon SB-24, LP-160(cactus v4/v5)" http://flickr.com/photos/bhursey | http://brianhurseyphotography.com |
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I know how to use a light meter, but I'm too cheap to buy one. I'd rather just shoot and chimp the histogram. With 14-bit raw capture, I've got enough latitude that it doesn't have to be DEAD on.
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JamieDePould.com + OneYearPhoto.com Nikon D300, D700, Sony NEX5n Zeiss 2/25; 1.4/50; 1.4/85 Please read the rules before posting a critique thread. Rules here. |
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Attempting to balance flash and ambient outdoors without a light meter is not a problem at all provided you and your subject don't mind taking 20 or 30 shots before getting it right.
![]() It is actually quite simple. 1. Forget shooting in bright sunshine. Pose your subject in the shade or wait until evening when the sun is not so bright and use the sun as a hair light and/or background light. 2. Set the meter and camera at the same ISO and also set the camera on manual. I suggest ISO 100. 3. Switch the meter to ambient and take your ambient reading. Set the shutter speed and aperture into the camera that the meter suggested. The shutter speed must be below 125. 4. Set the meter on "flash" and take a flash reading at the subject's face. The suggested aperture should now be one to two stops more than what the ambient reading was. If not boost the power of the flash until it is. When you've got the flash reading one or two stops more than the overall ambient reading, slow the shutter speed down by one or two stops and shoot several captures at each setting. You need to slow the shutter speed down by the same amount you stopped the aperture down or you will underexpose the background by that same amount. This is because the correct ambient reading is a combination of both the shutter speed AND the aperture. The flash is controlled only the aperture. The shutter speed regulates the brightness of the overall exposure (fill, hair, background and kicker "lights)" and the aperture regulates the flash exposure (which is the main light.) Benji |
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No meter, one shot to get it right.
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This was taking with an off camera SB-24 camera upper left I think. Took me 2 shoots to get the light balanced. This was in the shade of a big tree.
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Cameras: Canon 60D, Canon 20D, 35mm Nikon FM2n Canon EF lens used : 50mm f1.8, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.5, 75-300mm f/4.5-5, 85mm f/1.8 Tamron Lens: 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Strobist: Canon 580EX II , "Vivitar DF400MZ, Nikon SB-24, LP-160(cactus v4/v5)" http://flickr.com/photos/bhursey | http://brianhurseyphotography.com |
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ArtByPino I have the same question and its funny I feel the same way. Your question is a simple question. So I'll ask it again because so far all is been answered is how great a photo I can take without a light meter or look at my photo.
Sorry guys but some of us would like to understand both ways with and without light meters. Don't get me wrong or think I'm insulting anyone I love the photos that have been shown here and they are well shot but again the question is about a light meter and the ratio metering percent that shows up. Question: Quote:
Again I am not digging at anyone here just trying to get the correct answer to the question for both of us as I'm as confused as ArtByPino Thanks to all for their help. |
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| ambient, flash, lightmeter, sekonic, strobe |
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