Novice needs help part 2!

[trizzypballr]

I once again have come up with another question that I hope someone can help me out with. It pertains to learning how to properly set my camera up with my new Nikon SB-600 flash. Im not sure if anyone recalls my old thread from about 2 months ago, but I am a reptile breeder and am trying to take nice quality shots of my reptiles to post online. I am striving for the nice white background look, and in my last thread you guys helped me reach my goal by using 4 light bulbs to in a sence blow out the background to give it that great white look. This worked great and was able to take some shots that I was happy with, here are a few quick examples:







These pics turned out pretty much how I wanted to, except for one issue. The albinos that I try to take pictures of freak out and it is impossible for me to get a good picture of them. Ok fine then I need to get a flash and go about it that way. So I chatted with quite a few people and were told the Nikon SB-600 would be great with my Nikon D-5000 so this weekend I picked one up. This flash is great, it has so many different settings, only problem is im having a hard time finding exactly how I need to be setup to accomplish what I am trying to do. Here are 2 examples, please ignore the weird pose, the gecko was not cooperating and I was focusing more on trying to get this flash issue solved then worrying about the pose the gecko was in.

(Post Continued In next post due to # of photos)

[trizzypballr]

(continuation of first post)


Ill start off listing my camera settings:
Nikon D-5000
18-55 lens
ISO 400
F/16
shutter speed 1/125

now as far as the flash settings go. This first example, I got exactly what I was looking for with the background, but washed out the gecko.
Nikon SB-600 flash
manual settings
1/4 power



The second photo, the gecko looks how I would like it to, but I lost my nice background
Manual setting
1/8 power


This is my first time ever using an external flash on my camera. Actually just got the camera(my first DSLR) in January, so please dont laugh at my ignorance when it comes to how to properly set things up.

Everyones help is greatly appreciated!

[RexK_Cozumel]

easiest way of doing this is to build a light table. Basically the subject sits on a piece of glass and the backdrop is behind it so that you can light the backdrop and the subject independently.

[Benji]

A speedlight is the answer to virtually any and all photographic problems according to nearly every amateur I have ever spoken to. Need more light? Get a speedlight. Need less light? Get a speedlight. Need to be able to see what the flash is going to give you lighting wise before you take the shot? Get a speedlight. Don't care that you can't see what the flash is going to do before you take the shot? Get a speedlight.

Speedlights are good for what they are intended to be used for, an on camera flash that will raise the amount of light projected onto the subject. They are expensive and leave hard harsh shadows (as you have already discovered.) Just as in the ambient light scenario where you needed more light on the background than what is on the subject in order to have a white background, in flash photography you STILL need more light on the background than what is on the subject, AND it must match the speedlight's color temperature of 5500 k.

Morris Photographic Equipment morris slave makes a unit, the AC Super Screw-In Slave Flash. They cost about $50.00 and it will light your background quite nicely. I have used them for years. It screws into a standard light bulb socket. Simply aim it at the background from above (just as you did with the light bulbs before) and use the speedlight as the main light (on manual.) It will trigger the Morris unit. You cannot use a preflash for focus assist as it will fire the Morris unit.

Benji

[zona5101]

Actually i think the easiest way is to clean up the gray background in post. Don't need any hand tools

First off the first 3 images you posted were great! That lighting works well too bad you can't sedate the albinos and make 'em be still!

Without post processing it will probably be a lot of trial and error. You need to have 2 different light levels, one for the background bright enough to make it white and one to properly illuminate the lizards. You could use the flash to light the back and then use a reflector to bounce light into the critters as the main light. Because the background is close to the subject you might get too much spill and overexpose the edges of the animals. That is where I would start anyway... with the flash off camera lighting the background and a fill card. You would then manually control your flash output along with making adjustments to your aperture.
good luck!

[sk66]

You can't really get what you want with a single light source, and especially not on camera.
Too bad the 5000 doesn't have commander mode for the built in flash.

Optical slaves triggered by the SB600 are probably your best option. (for this application the 600 was too much). Youll have to tune down the SB600 quite a bit either manually or flash comp...and use a diffuser if it will be pointed at the subject.

[inkista]

One issue that you're also having is that you're not diffusing your speedlight enough--hence the harsh shadows. Using some kind of diffusing material (say, white printer paper) will help.

I use translucent Ikea trashcans and bins as diffusers for shooting fountain pens. But umbrellas and lightstands ain't bad.

The main thing is that your geckos are too close to the background, so you're lighting them together. What you ideally want is enough spatial separation between the two so that you have two different lighting "zones" that you can control separately. And, sadly, you'll need one light per zone to really control what's going on.

To see how this is done on a human scale , see Zack Arias's white seamless tutorial. What Rex is talking about is creating a similar setup on a smaller tabletop scale, with a transparent floor.

[trizzypballr]

Originally Posted by sk66

You can't really get what you want with a single light source, and especially not on camera.
Too bad the 5000 doesn't have commander mode for the built in flash.

Optical slaves triggered by the SB600 are probably your best option. (for this application the 600 was too much). Youll have to tune down the SB600 quite a bit either manually or flash comp...and use a diffuser if it will be pointed at the subject.

I will have to check out Ritz cameras return policy. If I am able to return the flash, since I just bought it 3 days ago, what would you recommend I get?

[trizzypballr]

Originally Posted by RexK_Cozumel

easiest way of doing this is to build a light table. Basically the subject sits on a piece of glass and the backdrop is behind it so that you can light the backdrop and the subject independently.

How hard will it be to hide the fact that the gecko is actually sitting on glass? Im wondering if the Albinos would still flip out seeing the bright background beneath/behind them still

[trizzypballr]

Originally Posted by Benji

A speedlight is the answer to virtually any and all photographic problems according to nearly every amateur I have ever spoken to. Need more light? Get a speedlight. Need less light? Get a speedlight. Need to be able to see what the flash is going to give you lighting wise before you take the shot? Get a speedlight. Don't care that you can't see what the flash is going to do before you take the shot? Get a speedlight.

Speedlights are good for what they are intended to be used for, an on camera flash that will raise the amount of light projected onto the subject. They are expensive and leave hard harsh shadows (as you have already discovered.) Just as in the ambient light scenario where you needed more light on the background than what is on the subject in order to have a white background, in flash photography you STILL need more light on the background than what is on the subject, AND it must match the speedlight's color temperature of 5500 k.

Morris Photographic Equipment morris slave makes a unit, the AC Super Screw-In Slave Flash. They cost about $50.00 and it will light your background quite nicely. I have used them for years. It screws into a standard light bulb socket. Simply aim it at the background from above (just as you did with the light bulbs before) and use the speedlight as the main light (on manual.) It will trigger the Morris unit. You cannot use a preflash for focus assist as it will fire the Morris unit.

Benji

I wish I would have done more research before making the purchase. I thought I did enough, but apparently I just spoke to the wrong people I will definitely keep the extra flashes in mind, but I would hate to spend even more on the lighting unless it is an absolute must.