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Try HDRing it but from one shot. I've used it to fix shots like this before.
Use centre weighted metering on the people so they are exposed correctly and take the shot. Then, open the picture in camera raw and reduce the exposure to get the sky back from being overexposed and save it as a copy -2. Then, still working with the original shot; boost the exposure to get the detail in the shadows. Now save this as a copy +2. You now have 3 pics; the original, the -2 copy and the +2 copy. Use a program like Photomatix to merge them into 1 pic and adjust the tonal mapping till you get something you like. It’s worth a try if you constantly having trouble and if you don’t mind spending a little time doing post works on your shots. |
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Hi
I would take a look at your lens to make sure its clean and mounted properly. I knew of a wedding photog (not me!) who did not have her lens mounted properly on her medium format camera, and took half the wedding out of focus. I would have rotated the whole crew a few degrees to their left, so the sun is more in their faces, would have helped with the underexposed people in the back. I would use a higher aperture (f/8 or f/11) to try to keep depth of field without blowing highlights. I also would suggest trying to take a spot meter of someone in the front, with as close to 18% grey as possible. I carry an 18% grey card with me, and will meter and test shoot on the card first to check exposure. This also helps with post processing color balance. There are a couple of guys in the front with grey-ish shirts on, so I would try to expose them properly, and would likely come close to proper exposure for everyone else. If your camera has a histogram, you can look at that, and if the curve is too far to the right, your highlights will be blown. With a group shot it's better to play with shutter speed rather than aperture, so you don't lose depth of field, and get the curve more towards the mid-range. As others have said, a neutral density filter or polarizing filter would go a long way, too. Hope this helps. Jeff Last edited by bigkahoona; 08-27-2009 at 04:52 PM. |
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I really love to know a lot of basic shoots in digital photography. I am still an amateur but I slowly understand the world of photography better. I observe that it all depends on the lens. Whew, this site is cool.
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Hi, there is no problem shooting into the sun IF you have the right filters. When the sun is significantly above the horizon you need to graduated neutral density filters of various stops; when the sun in just above the horizon you need to use reverse graduated neutral density filters or various stops.
Basically, dividing the filter in half, a graduated neutral density filter is darker at the top and slowly becomes lighter moving towards the middle of the filter until it is clear from the middle to the bottom. A reverse graduated filter is dark in the center and gradually lightens until becoming clear at the top. I suggest you read the various posts on: Focus on Singh-Ray Filters as well as the information presented on: @ Singh-Ray Photographic Filters. |
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I also live on the west coast in sunny long beach, ca and do a lot of beach camping and always have my camera. I have only been shooting intensely for a little more then year but have found with shooting both surfers and the ocean to try and have the sun to one side or the other of the subject you are trying to get a photo of or with the sun at your back but normally out here it would have to be early in the day with the ocean in the background. I personally like to shoot the ocean at sunset cause if there is a cool haze or clouds in the sky the colors just pop off and create cool effects. Also there is a chance you can catch catalina in the background shooting out of Huntington Beach or Bolsa Chica.
I have attached two of my better shots taken, one at Huntington Beach of a surfer last August and a sunset shot taken last November at Bolsa Chica State Beach. Both of them are the pure image with no modification. |
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Apart from the focus issue. I see a blown out background. One way around this is to expose for the ambient light i.e. the background. Use a high sync speed, the higher the better. This will leave your group underexposed. Then you can use a little flash to bring the group up to match the ambient light.
It's a question of balance so you have to check your LCD display on the back of your camera and adjust your flash output accordingly. |
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[QUOTE=OjaiAnna;602220]Ok ... I live on the west coast and the sun sets in the west, so when I am trying to take photos of the ocean or with the ocean in the background in the afternoon, I am facing into the sun ... or even partially into the sun if I change my angle a little bit. Does anyone have any suggestions on taking pictures like this? Thank you.[/QUOTE
![]() try using flash to fill in the shadows on your subjects .expose to suit the subject.try to move the group around a bit so the sun isnt so direct to the lens im not sure what camera you have but if you can set the exposure meter to spot it would help .change the time of day you take the shots . back lit shots of surfing takes a lot of practice you have so many things to confuse the camera eg white surf ,sun ,dark water , sun glare to name a few,dont let this put you off trying because when you get it right you will be stoked i hope this helps you ,regards Kym
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Generally the West Coast faces West (I would bet that is why everyone calls it the "West Coast")
However some of our San Diego area beaches are not West facing but are South facing and some Southwest facing. That way, you get some nice side or 3/4 light at sunset. We also normally have a fog bank (I have always wondered why people would want to deposit fog in a bank. Oh well!) out on the horizon. This prevents us, on most occasions from getting a really nice sunset. The sun is exciting as it dips lower on the horizon and then, puff, it disappears). However, the fog bank obscures the setting sun enough that you can shoot almost directly into it without much problem. Almost like having Mother Nature's GND filter. Just use a fill flash to somewhat even out the exposure between your subject and the background. Also, don't forget to use a lens hood. BTW: Despite the fact that a UV filter might cause flare, I always use one when shooting on the beach. Salt spray is a bearcat to clean off the front element of your lens. I will also most often protect my camera with an OPTECH Rain Coat. |
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Nicole,Thank you for your beautiful landscape photos.They are very beautiful.Are the photos are taken by you in EU ?They are the special landscape in UE I think
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