Waterfalls (aperture question)

[nemesis256]

This memorial day weekend, I photographed waterfalls in the White Mountains in New Hampshire. I'm not a professional photographer by a long shot (I have a Fujifilm S1000fd, "DSLR like" camera) but I do enjoy it as a hobby. When increasing the shutter speed on my camera to create that wonderful streaky effect on waterfalls, I quickly realized how over exposed your shots can be. I worked around it and have gotten some decent/good results, but I also realized how half of it is luck (type of waterfall, time of day/amount of natural light in the area, etc). But what I wished I had was a higher F number on my camera, so my shots wouldn't be so over exposed.

So when I got back home I looked around for cameras with higher apertures. I quickly saw that these cameras were out of my budget, since it only appears to be found in true DSLR cameras. But I still have a question...

For example I'm looking at the Nikon D5000 here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16830113198

The title specifies an F number of f/3.5-5.6G. First, what's the G for? Second, when going down to the Lens Specs, I see Maximum Aperture: 3.5-5.6, Minimum Aperture: 22-32. What do the two ranges here mean? Can you really get a lens with an aperture ranging from 3.5 to 32, or is this range only explaining the capable range for the body itself?

I hope that makes sense, and I hope I'm speaking the language correctly.

[MOmilkman]

Originally Posted by nemesis256

The title specifies an F number of f/3.5-5.6G. First, what's the G for? Second, when going down to the Lens Specs, I see Maximum Aperture: 3.5-5.6, Minimum Aperture: 22-32. What do the two ranges here mean? Can you really get a lens with an aperture ranging from 3.5 to 32, or is this range only explaining the capable range for the body itself?

I hope that makes sense, and I hope I'm speaking the language correctly.

I can explain one part of your question for you:

Max Aperture of 3.5-5.6 indicates the maximum aperture when you are at the wide end of your lens (f3.5) and the maximum at the long end of the zoom lens (f5.6) - in other words, as you zoom the lens out you lose some of your maximum aperture

Then for Min Aperture same thing - f22 is the minimum at the wide end and f32 is the minimum at the long end.

Have no idea about the "G" thing. Maybe it's a Nikkon thing.

Some DLSR bodys can be very expensive but you can getinto some lower end bodys (like mine) (used) that can be very resonable. I got my (350D) for $300 with a 50mm Prime Lens. There are plenty of deals out there to be had.

[OsmosisStudios]

Most consumer grade lenses are variable aperture.

In this case, the maximum aperture (ie the LARGEST the aperture can be) is 3.5 at the wide end of the zoom and 5.6 at the long end.

The minimum aperture refers to the SMALLEST the aperture can be, which is 22 at the wide end and 32 at the long end.

What this means is that at 18mm, the aperture can be between 3.5 and 22, and at 55mm the aperture can be between 5.6 and 32.

Aperture in lenses is independent of your camera body.

In Nikon speak, G means that the lens doesnt not have a physical aperture ring and that the aperture is controlled by the camera (but is still in the lens). This is because most cameras meter and focus using the lens wide open (ie at 3.5 or 5.6) and then close the aperture down to the prescribed aperture as it takes the picture.

Remember, aperture is a fraction: f/3.5 means that the aperture is 1/3.5, and f/22 is 1/22. So, bigger the number, smaller the opening.

The thing is, the aperture also affects other things besides just the amount of light being let in. A larger aperture (small number) creates a shallow depth of field (DoF). This is the amount of the picture in focus. at f/1.8, depending on your distance to the subject, the Dof can be a fraction of an inch. Contrarily, stopping down to f/16 gives a DoF that extends almost from end to end. This is why landscape shooters choose small apertures and use a tripod.

I shot some long-exposure stuff over the weekend: My 70-300 stops down to f/44 at 300mm, so I was using that and a 30s shutter speed to get a nice blurring on a ferris wheel. Along the same vein, I was using another lens at 24mm stopped down to f/22 at 30s to blur the water from a waterfall.

[autofocus]

The title specifies an F number of f/3.5-5.6G. First, what's the G for? Second, when going down to the Lens Specs, I see Maximum Aperture: 3.5-5.6, Minimum Aperture: 22-32. What do the two ranges here mean? Can you really get a lens with an aperture ranging from 3.5 to 32, or is this range only explaining the capable range for the body itself?

OK, here's your answer on what's the "G" for straight from Nikon's website: G-type NIKKOR lenses have no aperture control ring and are intended for use on Nikon D-SLRs that allow the lens aperture to be adjusted via the camera's command dial.

Concerning the two ranges question: kit zoom lenses, and less expensive zoom lenses have the fastest or largest opening aperture (in this case, F/3.5) available only at it's widest focal point. As you zoom to full telephoto the largest aperture available will now be F/5.6. Look at it as on a sliding scale. This also holds true for the minimum aperture settings...once again, on a sliding scale. More expensive zoom lenses will offer it's largest opening or F/Stop of say, F/2.8 over the entire zoom range from wide through telephoto. These lenses are referred to as "fast lenses." I hope this is clear and does not find you more confused.

[dcclark]

Everyone here has covered the minimum aperture question well. Here's something else that will probably be relevant for you. When shooting waterfalls with long shutter speeds, in broad daylight, you'll definitely have trouble getting a good exposure (as you noticed). I don't know if your DSLR-alike camera has a filter ring (probably not), but if it does, you could put a neutral density in front of it. That filter's sole purpose is to absorb light, letting you have a longer shutter speed without overexposing.

However, if you can't, then your best bet is to shoot on cloudy, overcast days. Not only will there be less light, but it will be more diffused and soft as well -- which will help even out the light in your photos and avoid very bright, overexposed parts.

Good luck!

[fletch]

And if you can't use filters you can always hold your sunglasses in front of the lens.

[dakwegmo]

Even if it doesn't have threads to take a filter, you can still hold a filter in front of your lens while shooting. I know of several landscape photographers that prefer holding them to using one of the holder. As long as you're using a tripod it shouldn't be a problem.

[kencaleno]

Hi, First thing you must trealise is that you do have F22 aperture on your camera- F8 = f22 where F3.5 = F9 and here's why: (I cannot understand why the camera manuals do not explain this


Concerning Exposure: ( for cameras where you can change aperture/shutter speed)

"Correct exposure" means that a medium-toned subject like an 18% gray card will appear medium-toned in the resulting photograph.
At ISO 100, this amounts to an EV of 14.6. By reciprocity, any aperture and shutter speed yielding EV 14.6 satisfies the rule.

The Digital Version

To the extent that digital ISOs equal film ISOs, the same EV 14.6 rule applies to digital cameras as well. But since the diffraction-limited lenses found in most consumer digital cameras generally preclude f/16 apertures, a reciprocity-adjusted digital version would be handier:

You may be wondering why your smallest F stop (aperture) is only F8,where DSLR cameras go to F22 and beyond- the reason for this is Diffraction-Diffraction is a limiting effect concerning lens optics which affects total resolving power of your lens. Light generally travels in straight lines, but when light rays are forced to enter very small openings (small f-stops) the rays start to spread out, and converge with each other, and bend round diaphragm blades which affects your images, due to the softening that occurs. This achieves a greater depth of field, but sharpness suffers. The reason for F 8 being your smallest aperture is directly due to Diffraction.
The “F” in “F-stop” means Factor. So “F 8” translates as Focal length of camera lens divided by 8 is the diameter of the aperture. For DSLR’s with a 50mm lens focal length, F8 equals 50/8 = 6mm )approx) F8 on your point and shoot with lens set at equivalent of 50mm = 1mm,so anything smaller would be impractical, and all images made would be blurred.
Now if you can change aperture and shutter speed on your camera, you may be interested in setting exposure manually-what was known as the “Sunny-16 Rule”, But will be known to you as the “Sunny 5.6 Rule.”
Basic daylight Exposure (Sunny 5.6 Rule)

Based on “Sunny 16” Rule where at F16 shutter speed =1/ISO (14.6)EV Because of the diffraction problems of very small apertures-(re F8 being the smallest aperture of point and shoot cameras), 14.6 EV equates to 1 / (8*ISO).

DSLR Point and Shoot

F 22 = F8
F 16 = F 5.6
F 11 = F 4
F 8 = F 2.8
F 5.6 =F 2


So, at 100 ISO:

Hard edged Shadows………………………. 1/800 @ F 5.6

Soft edged Shadows…………………………1/800 @ F 4

Barely visible Shadows………………………1/800 @ F 2.8

No shadows……………………………….......1/800 @ F 2

I hope this explains it all for you. Regards, Ken

[fletch]

Originally Posted by kencaleno

Hi, First thing you must trealise is that you do have F22 aperture on your camera- F8 = f22 where F3.5 = F9 and here's why: (I cannot understand why the camera manuals do not explain this

I suspect that camera manuals don't include this is because its bloody confusing and not entirely correct. f/8 is f/8 is f/8 as far as expsoure goes on any camera. Not f/22 as the statement above seems to sugest. f/8 on a P&S has the same effect on exposure as f/8 on a DSLR. Therefore when shooting waterfalls it is no use assuming f/8 = f/22 becuase it doesn't.

When it comes to DoF and diffraction you have a point but it's still way of the mark as far as a manual goes.

[autofocus]

Originally Posted by fletch

I suspect that camera manuals don't include this is because its bloody confusing and not entirely correct. f/8 is f/8 is f/8 as far as expsoure goes on any camera. Not f/22 as the statement above seems to sugest. f/8 on a P&S has the same effect on exposure as f/8 on a DSLR. Therefore when shooting waterfalls it is no use assuming f/8 = f/22 becuase it doesn't.

When it comes to DoF and diffraction you have a point but it's still way of the mark as far as a manual goes.

"Uh Oh...looks like were gonna go to the mattresses"....