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with a 18-55, it is going to be tough. Too many outside light sources to cause lens flare.
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Yes, take the UV filter off when you're shooting the moon. The moon is actually very bright (as you may have noticed). So there's something called the "moony 11" rule, which is a good starting point. f/11 and 1/ISO. Now, you can adjust that depending on how it turns out, but it is a good starting point. You may have to open your aperture more to increase your shutter speed if you're shooting with a longer photo length depending on your ISO.
Oh, and spot meter for the moon if you really want the crater details and you're not quite sure how changing your aperture / shutter speed will change it.
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Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 12-13-2008 at 01:53 AM. |
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As Inkista correctly pointed out you need a longer lens. I have been able to get decent shots from a 200-300 mm lens but the best are in the 400-600 mm range.
When metering the moon with these long lenses, fill the viewfinder with the moon and overexpose by 1-2 stops to keep the moon white rather than grayish. Use a manual exposure mode to set the value once. Regarding exposure, I usually set my lens at f/8 (depending on the lens) and increase the shutter speed as much as possible (ISO around 400 sometimes to get a faster shutter speed). The best shots are obtained when the moon is low on the horizon, if you close your lens too much and use a slow speed, the movement of the moon will keep you from getting a sharp image. Always use a tripod for this. Also use a a remote shutter release or the self-timer function along with mirror lock to reduce camera shake as much as possible - with lenses in the 300-600 mm range, camera shake is greatly magnified and can ruin a shot in a hurry. Hope this helps.
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~ Newt ~ Canon 5D MkII | Canon 40D | Canon A2 | Canon F-1 EF 16-35mm f/2.8L | EF 24-70mm f/2.8L | EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS EF 35mm f/1.4L | EF 50mm f/1.4 | EF 85mm f/1.8 | EF 300mm f/2.8L IS EF-S 60mm f/2.8 MACRO | EF 100mm f/2.8 MACRO |
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You should be able to get a fairly decent image even with a 55mm lens by using max resolution and then cropping down.
To get resolution on the craters and other surface features you need to make sure you take shots of the moon when it is not full. Also, if you have spot metering then use that to help you. I managed this (see below) with a 200mm lens and a tripod though the moon was low in the sky so might not have been so bright.
Last edited by johnny74; 12-16-2008 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Spelling |
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Sorry, should have added....ISO 800, f5.6, 1/50 sec.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9857793...24211658/meta/ |
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anthony,
I would bet your nice camera can take a great shot of the moon. Here's a tutorial called Shoot for the Moon written to show how even those of us with a bridge camera can get good shots. Let us know how it goes using her tips! I was able to get much better shots than I thought possible on my first try. Unfortunately, it's been cloudy since. Debbie
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Debbie Canon Powershot A650IS (Bridge Camera) Use the talents you possess, for the woods would be very silent if no birds sang except the best. OK to edit and repost only on DPS forums. If you're bored: My flickr |
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