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If you havn't got it all ready, a remote release.
Other that that an alarm clock, to get up, and torch for for seeing what you are doing, and if is a powerfull one to help focus, before the sun comes up.. Re filters. You may need A ND grad for mostly controlling the skies. You will know when you need one when the sky is overexposed and the land correctly exposed. A ND to allow you to shoot longer exposures when the light is brighter. A polariser to help control reflections and saturate the colours a little more. ----------------- The main thing is to pick your times and the weather (light) when you are shooting.
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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Tips From a Pro: Creating a Powerful Low-Light Landscape | Popular Photography
Here's a good discussion on filters: GND filters | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
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GREG - Canon XS with 18-55 kit flickr flickriver My 500px "You can't be young forever, but you can always be immature." - Larry Andersen. |
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Hmmm, those look like 10mm.
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Canon 60D, G12, Leica V-LUX 20, Canon 10-22mm EF-S f/3.5-4.5, 18-135mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS, 100mm EF f/2.8 Macro, 15-85mm EF-S f3.5-5.6 IS, 50mm EF f1.4, 70-200mm EF f2.8L IS II, Kenko tubes, Satechi WR-C100 Wireless Remote, B+W Filters, Gitzo monopod, Sunpak 623px tripod, Sunbounce mini micro reflector, Colormunki Photo, DPP, PSD, Pixma Pro9000 Mark II, MAC, WIN. |
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2nd and 3rd shots are long exposures to smooth out the water, and were probably done either in very low light with a small aperture, possibly with the addition of an ND filter.
An ND filter is like having sunglasses for your camera. It's a neutral-color (e.g., grey) filter that cuts down the amount of light, so you can use a slower shutter speed in brighter conditions. The longer you want the exposure to be, the darker you need the filter to be. Most ND filters are rated in stops. A graduated ND filter is a filter that's darker at the top, and lighter at the bottom, and gradually shades between the two areas. You generally adjust the blended area over your horizon, and use the darker part to keep your skies from blowing out, while properly exposing your foreground. You can also, to some degree, achieve this in post with a gradient mask. ACR/Lightroom's "Develop" module, has this as a built-in tool. You definitely want to be shooting RAW, using a decent tripod, with good technique (cable release or remote, mirror lock-up, etc.), a great scene, great light, and fantastic post-processing skills.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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In the photo,
GND filters | Flickr - Photo Sharing! It says, 2 stop + 3 stop GND. What does that 2 + 3 means ?
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5D Mark 2 , 17-40mm L USM, 70-200mm f2.8 L IS USM Mark 2, 24-70mm L USM, 100mm f2.8 L IS USM, 100-400mm L IS USM. |
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Two separate filters
Each stop means reducing the light entering the lens by 1/2. See this tute on exposure. Exposure (1) A balancing act
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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So, he used 2 filters at once ?
Thats like, attaching a screw filter system onto the lens and putting in 1 ND on one slot and 1 GND on another slot of the filter system ? I have heard, when you are shooting UW, like 10mm or 12mm , for example 17mm on my 5D , there wil be vignetting, if we use such filter system ? Whats the solution there ?
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5D Mark 2 , 17-40mm L USM, 70-200mm f2.8 L IS USM Mark 2, 24-70mm L USM, 100mm f2.8 L IS USM, 100-400mm L IS USM. |
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I find that as long as I zoom to about 12mm on my 10-20mm lens, the vignetting goes away for the most part. Below that I tend to get the edges of the holder in the photo. I have one of the 3 filter holders that I use.
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Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
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