ND Grad filters

[crockny]

If you could buy only one Singh Ray ND filter for sunset, sunrise photos, what would be your choice? I need to start somewhere but don't have a clue. I'm going to the Washington coast in a month and would like to do some experimenting ...

[milosh]

It would probably be a graduated ND filter or a reverse graduated ND. Many people use reverse GNDs for sunrises/sunsets. A reverse GND is darkest at the transition but then gradually gets brighter towards its edge. The reason for this is that often at sunrise/sunset the sky is brightest at the horizon. With a regular GND you can achieve a good exposure on the horizon but the rest of the sky might end up underexposed, it depends on the situation. The one on the left is a reverse GND: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_peWKOMZRGw...+reverse+2.jpg And it would probably be 3 stops.

[navcom]

3-stop reverse ND grad...absolutely no doubt. I use it 90% of the time. You can take a look at my website below. If it's one of my sunsets/sunrises, chances are it was used. And I only use Singh Ray filters.

Let me know if you have any questions on it. Hope that helps!

[sk66]

I personally don't really see the point. The effect can be applied in post, often better.
I have one new in it's case, never opened. I do occasionally use a variable ND to get slower SS's.

[crockny]

Originally Posted by navcom

3-stop reverse ND grad...absolutely no doubt. I use it 90% of the time. You can take a look at my website below. If it's one of my sunsets/sunrises, chances are it was used. And I only use Singh Ray filters.

Let me know if you have any questions on it. Hope that helps!

Really beautiful website -- thanks! Do you use the holder or just hold it in front of the lens? And may I ask what lenses you are using for those seascapes??? I'll be going to the Washington coast and am taking my Tamron 18-270 and my new Sigma 10-20mm ...

[navcom]

Originally Posted by crockny

Really beautiful website -- thanks! Do you use the holder or just hold it in front of the lens? And may I ask what lenses you are using for those seascapes??? I'll be going to the Washington coast and am taking my Tamron 18-270 and my new Sigma 10-20mm ...

Thanks for the compliment! Much appreciated! I use it both with and without a holder. It depends on the lens and the situation. I use the holder mostly though. My "most used" lens is a 16-45mm lens usually set at the wider end (16-20).

Both of the lenses you listed would work fine for landscapes. The 10-20mm set around the 20mm end will be your best for wide compositions. The 18-270 would work for the 18-50 range with landscapes for the most part.

Steve is right...you can do ND grad-type effects in post processing. Lightroom even has a feature just for that. From my own experience though I might respectfully disagree a bit with him though. Lightroom (or Photoshop and other PP software) can get close to the same quality as an ND grad and there are times when you have no choice as the filter just won't work in certain circumstances. But my own personal opinion is that the ND grad produces much more natural and truer colors. I think this is because it modifies the light before you capture it thus giving you the best quality and also the most color depth. Post processing must rely on pre-recorded pixels and it's (and your) ability to match the colors that you saw. It's sometimes not possible to create colors that were never recorded to begin with...colors that would have been pulled out because of the filter's control of the dynamic range.

But that's my opinion. I've tried many different ways...layering, HDR software, gradients, the specialized features. I still feel I get the best and most predictable results with the filter.

Hope that helps!

[crockny]

Thanks - I am new to landscape photography -- I've been shooting birds and closeups, so the big view is a different animal (so to speak). On a different subject, I am confused about hyperfocal distance. I want to have foreground interest (which I see in your photos) and am not sure how to get the most sharpness front and back ... can you point me to some tutorials or give me some pointers? I know I'm getting off the thread here ...

[navcom]

Originally Posted by crockny

Thanks - I am new to landscape photography -- I've been shooting birds and closeups, so the big view is a different animal (so to speak). On a different subject, I am confused about hyperfocal distance. I want to have foreground interest (which I see in your photos) and am not sure how to get the most sharpness front and back ... can you point me to some tutorials or give me some pointers? I know I'm getting off the thread here ...

I use hyperfocal distance focusing pretty much exclusively for my landscapes. It sounds much more complicated than it is. Since you are new to the method, try to concentrate on performing the focus procedure and forget about all the how's and why's...just do it and it will work.

Here's the easiest way you can use it for landscapes with foreground object(s). Get yourself a hyperfocal chart (paper or software...doesn't matter). This website is a great resource.

With chart in hand, first thing to do is compose your shot in your viewfinder. This means you have the shot ready to go and the focal length set on your lens (16mm, 20mm, whatever you need so you see the final composition in the viewfinder). Now set your aperture for the depth of field you want. I almost always use something between f/11 and f/16. You almost never need to go smaller than f/16 unless your foreground object is almost touching your lens.

Now, find your focal length and aperture setting on your chart. Where the two cross is the "distance" you need to set your focus ring. Forget that it says "distance". Just think of it as a number or a setting. Simply turn it till it reads that "setting". That's it. This setting will give you the best depth of field for that particular aperture and focal length. Forget what you see in the viewfinder...just take the shot and study the final result. It works.

That's it in a simple nutshell. It's all you really need to know. If you find that your foreground subject is really close to your camera and is a bit out of focus, you can adjust the focus ring just a hair either side until it comes in focus in the shot (NOT in the viewfinder). Just remember that if you bring the objects close to you in better focus, objects way off in the distance will start to go out of focus. You can also step down the aperture a stop and reset using the chart for a greater DOF. Play around until you get what you want. And don't be afraid to experiment. It's a great learning exercise!

If you want to understand why it works, that's great...but get a few shots under your belt first so you understand the process and it will be easier to learn the why's later.

Hope that helps!

[crockny]

Oy - I have a headache!

So ... say I use my Tamron at 18mm f16 and I have a large rock in the foreground 3 ft away:

Online Depth of Field Calculator

According to this I focus at 3.56 -- but my focus ring is not that precise (and neither is my spacial acuity) ... I think I'm in trouble! I wouldn't even be sure the rock is 3 ft away ... seems like you have to be really precise with this ...

[navcom]

For now, forget about the distance objects are away from your camera. Don't even think about foreground object distance in the equation for now. It's not that important as the focal ring increments aren't that precise anyhow (as you know). Think of the "distance setting" as just your "focus setting". Only worry about your aperture and your focal length. Keep it simple and just follow the procedure below without thinking about why...


-Frame your composition in your viewfinder by zooming in or out until your composition looks like you want your final image to be.

- Set your aperture for your depth of field. If your foreground object is really, really close, start with f/16. If it's several feet away, start with f/11 or f/13. Don't worry so much about precise distances. It's not that important...just guess for now. Experience will teach you what aperture will work.

- Use the chart to determine where to turn your focal ring to. Just get it as close as you can.

- Take the picture

If you look at the image and the DOF needs to be more, simply change your aperture setting to a smaller opening (larger number) and recalculate using the chart and take another shot.

Think "simple". Focal length....aperture....use chart to set focal ring...take picture.

Let me know if this makes sense. I know it's a bit confusing as you haven't done it. Plus it's hard to explain over email or a forum. It's one of those things that's easier to explain by showing. Once you do it a couple times, it will make sense and a light bulb will go off. I promise.