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Hey everyone - I'm fairly new to photography. I've had a DSLR for a few years and have only snapped shots occasionally with a few "professional" things here and there.
Lately, I've been interested in doing some landscapes, but have noticed that my landscapes seem very blah. They seem unsaturated or pale. I've noticed a lot of photos on here (and professionally) that are very rich in color yet are not HDR. How is that done? I thought I read somewhere that ND filters help your camera's sensor draw in more color - is that the secret? |
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A circular polarizer can produce the deep blue skies and more vivid colors. It is most effective at a 90 angle relative to the sun. It can also produce a gradient in the sky, so be aware of that. A graduated neutral density filter will reduce the brightness of the sky relative to the ground, hopefully allowing you to get both exposed correctly. If you shoot RAW, you can "push" the brightness or saturation more on those files vs. jpgs before the image gets noisy. Finally, if you bracket your shots, you might find that the underexposed images have more color. That's usually the case for me if I am taking sunset shots. These shots are all underexposed RAW files converted to jpgs - Cool sunset at Hayward shoreline
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GREG - Canon XS with 18-55 kit flickr flickriver My 500px "You can't be young forever, but you can always be immature." - Larry Andersen. Last edited by Krusty79; 02-24-2011 at 12:07 AM. |
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I need to learn about bracketing (just haven't had time). I just get annoyed because I see other peoples non-HDR shots where the sky so blue, the grass is so green, the trees are so red/yellow/brown, and every color seems to pop. And I take a similar photography and it even though I think it's exposed correctly (not overly white or black and histo looks ok) it still looks like I used post processing and pulled the saturation bar down to make it look awfully pale.
I just read a blog/tutorial about using ND filters on static shots to allow for slower shutter speeds and pull in more color (and of course for vivid colors and correct exposure while getting blurred water/clouds/etc). EDIT: I meant I need to learn about metering. I read that matrix metering is best for landscapes since the camera looks at entire frame? Last edited by Khaos05; 02-24-2011 at 01:38 PM. |
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a few things you need to add to the equation when it comes to color saturation
1) the lens you are using...some just produce better, more saturated colors 2) time of day, and ambient light conditions 3) your position relative to the light source (sun) 4) exposure settings (already mentioned..agree that slight underexposures have yielded better color saturation for me also) 5) overall contrast of the scene 6) atmospheric conditions 7) your camera's custom settings 8) matrix metering is OK, but remember it's looking at all of the light in the scene and averaging it out...sometimes, you'll wind up with an average, blah looking photograph...recoverable in post, though
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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Any suggestions on best bang for buck? Something that is solid and will get job done but will not make me eat spam for 2 weeks? |
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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