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Old 02-23-2011, 11:56 PM
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Default High Contrast/Saturated?

Hey everyone - I'm fairly new to photography. I've had a DSLR for a few years and have only snapped shots occasionally with a few "professional" things here and there.

Lately, I've been interested in doing some landscapes, but have noticed that my landscapes seem very blah. They seem unsaturated or pale. I've noticed a lot of photos on here (and professionally) that are very rich in color yet are not HDR.

How is that done? I thought I read somewhere that ND filters help your camera's sensor draw in more color - is that the secret?
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:04 AM
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A circular polarizer can produce the deep blue skies and more vivid colors. It is most effective at a 90 angle relative to the sun. It can also produce a gradient in the sky, so be aware of that. A graduated neutral density filter will reduce the brightness of the sky relative to the ground, hopefully allowing you to get both exposed correctly. If you shoot RAW, you can "push" the brightness or saturation more on those files vs. jpgs before the image gets noisy. Finally, if you bracket your shots, you might find that the underexposed images have more color. That's usually the case for me if I am taking sunset shots. These shots are all underexposed RAW files converted to jpgs - Cool sunset at Hayward shoreline
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Last edited by Krusty79; 02-24-2011 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:34 PM
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I need to learn about bracketing (just haven't had time). I just get annoyed because I see other peoples non-HDR shots where the sky so blue, the grass is so green, the trees are so red/yellow/brown, and every color seems to pop. And I take a similar photography and it even though I think it's exposed correctly (not overly white or black and histo looks ok) it still looks like I used post processing and pulled the saturation bar down to make it look awfully pale.

I just read a blog/tutorial about using ND filters on static shots to allow for slower shutter speeds and pull in more color (and of course for vivid colors and correct exposure while getting blurred water/clouds/etc).

EDIT: I meant I need to learn about metering. I read that matrix metering is best for landscapes since the camera looks at entire frame?

Last edited by Khaos05; 02-24-2011 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:06 PM
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a few things you need to add to the equation when it comes to color saturation
1) the lens you are using...some just produce better, more saturated colors
2) time of day, and ambient light conditions
3) your position relative to the light source (sun)
4) exposure settings (already mentioned..agree that slight underexposures have yielded better color saturation for me also)
5) overall contrast of the scene
6) atmospheric conditions
7) your camera's custom settings
8) matrix metering is OK, but remember it's looking at all of the light in the scene and averaging it out...sometimes, you'll wind up with an average, blah looking photograph...recoverable in post, though
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autofocus View Post
a few things you need to add to the equation when it comes to color saturation
1) the lens you are using...some just produce better, more saturated colors
2) time of day, and ambient light conditions
3) your position relative to the light source (sun)
4) exposure settings (already mentioned..agree that slight underexposures have yielded better color saturation for me also)
5) overall contrast of the scene
6) atmospheric conditions
7) your camera's custom settings
8) matrix metering is OK, but remember it's looking at all of the light in the scene and averaging it out...sometimes, you'll wind up with an average, blah looking photograph...recoverable in post, though
Hey thanks for the tips - what is ideal on some of those points? I know lenses vary, but what about time of day? I've heard dawn or dusk but most of the photos I've seen don't look like either (as far as I can tell). What about your position relative to sun? What metering and bracketing do you reccomend?
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaos05 View Post
Hey thanks for the tips - what is ideal on some of those points? I know lenses vary, but what about time of day? On a bright sunny day, I'd have to say that later afternoon has worked out best for me. I think the light is more diffused in early morning and at dusk. I've heard dawn or dusk but most of the photos I've seen don't look like either (as far as I can tell). What about your position relative to sun? From my experience the closer you shoot into the light source, the less saturation you'll get. Light at right angles or somewhat behind you will probably yield richer colors.What metering and bracketing do you recommend?
You always want to consider a tripod or a solid mounted camera if you plan on using your bracketed shots layered together. I do very little bracketing, but I'd think all the above conditions would have to be taken into consideration before you set your various bracket exposures. Matrix metering or center weighted is certainly OK for landscape, but again, you also need to make some of those judgments based on the scene, and the look you may be going for. For example, spot metering off a bright highlight could be OK, as long as you're all right with having the rest of the scene somewhat underexposed. So, depending on the end result you are looking for I guess you could say there really isn't any set right or wrong.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autofocus View Post
You always want to consider a tripod or a solid mounted camera if you plan on using your bracketed shots layered together. I do very little bracketing, but I'd think all the above conditions would have to be taken into consideration before you set your various bracket exposures. Matrix metering or center weighted is certainly OK for landscape, but again, you also need to make some of those judgments based on the scene, and the look you may be going for. For example, spot metering off a bright highlight could be OK, as long as you're all right with having the rest of the scene somewhat underexposed. So, depending on the end result you are looking for I guess you could say there really isn't any set right or wrong.
Thanks! I'm looking to buy a tripod right now. I want one that is good and sturdy, but would rather not drop $300 on one (or $150 for that matter). I found a manfrotto kit with tripod and backpack for $120 so I may do that since eBay and craigslist haven't turned up any good deals.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaos05 View Post
Thanks! I'm looking to buy a tripod right now. I want one that is good and sturdy, but would rather not drop $300 on one (or $150 for that matter). I found a manfrotto kit with tripod and backpack for $120 so I may do that since eBay and craigslist haven't turned up any good deals.
Just make sure the tripod you buy can handle the weight of your camera and your heaviest lenses...anything too flimsy will just be money wasted. However, for general use, you don't have to break the bank with those high end carbon fiber types...a good solid unit should be fine. In our business of shooting mostly fast moving, never in one place kids, we rarely shoot with a tripod. I have an old SLIK that does serve the purpose when we do need one.
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autofocus View Post
Just make sure the tripod you buy can handle the weight of your camera and your heaviest lenses...anything too flimsy will just be money wasted. However, for general use, you don't have to break the bank with those high end carbon fiber types...a good solid unit should be fine. In our business of shooting mostly fast moving, never in one place kids, we rarely shoot with a tripod. I have an old SLIK that does serve the purpose when we do need one.
Well right now, my only lenses are a 50mm prime and a 55-250mm neither of which is super heavy. I understand the need for the tripod head not to tilt with weight - just not sure how much weight it needs to hold.

Any suggestions on best bang for buck? Something that is solid and will get job done but will not make me eat spam for 2 weeks?
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Any suggestions on best bang for buck? Something that is solid and will get job done but will not make me eat spam for 2 weeks?[
Sorry, can't be much help on that, so I'll have yield to those that have more knowledge on the subject of tripods. Maybe start a new post asking that specific question...it may get lost in this string
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