Balancing different exposures.

[compleks]

I've always had difficulty trying to get this right. Generally when I shoot with the sky in the background. I can never properly expose both the sky and the foreground object.

Here's an example I've borrowed online:



How can I achieve a result like above? I either have a good looking sky, with underexposed foreground. Or a good foreground and overexposed sky.

What is the best way to rectify this issue?

Thanking you.

[RichardTaylor]

When shooting: - use a nuetral graduated filter

or shoot multiple exposures and combine them in post processing

or, if possible, shoot RAW and process for two exposure and merge them.

Example:


and

[compleks]

Thanks for the advice.

I can sometimes rescue the photos in post processing, I was just curious to know what else I could do to help.
I tried shooting different exposures today, but it was without a tripod... so I'm not sure if I will be able to merge them.

I'm still only using a point and shoot camera, but I will do what I can.

Thank you again

[OsmosisStudios]

Originally Posted by compleks

Here's an example I've borrowed online:



How can I achieve a result like above?

That's actually nothing special: the sun is off to the right, so it's illuminating the small buildings with a similar amount of light as the sky.

[BCampbell]

Originally Posted by OsmosisStudios

That's actually nothing special: the sun is off to the right, so it's illuminating the small buildings with a similar amount of light as the sky.

No, follow the shadows, the sun is still very overhead, at somewhere around a 1-2:00 position (relative position, not time of day).

Anyway, OP, if you don't have an ND grad. filter, you can fake one in post processing if you use RAW (you might be able to if you shoot in JPG, RAW makes it a lot easier and more effective).

-Develop two versions of the RAW, one exposed for the sky and one exposed for the landscape.
-Add them together as separate layers, full opacity.
-Create a layer mask on the top layer.
-Use the gradient tool to create a gradual blend at the horizon. Experiment with this for best results; you don't want to trace too short a line or the gradient will be too harsh; too long and it won't be as effective.
-You can use a brush to adjust specific areas that may extend above the horizon, like trees.
-You can also adjust the opacity of the top layer to strengthen or weaken the effect.

[OsmosisStudios]

Originally Posted by BCampbell

No, follow the shadows, the sun is still very overhead, at somewhere around a 1-2:00 position (relative position, not time of day).

Regardless, there is enough light falling on the face of the buildings for them to be properly illuminated. 1-2:00 position is still to the right, too.

[BCampbell]

Originally Posted by OsmosisStudios

Regardless, there is enough light falling on the face of the buildings for them to be properly illuminated. 1-2:00 position is still to the right, too.

Sure, but that doesn't mean this wasn't adjusted. In fact, exposing for the sky there would probably overexpose the sand (very easy to do, almost the same as shooting snow). This was probably adjusted in reverse, with the landscape lightened and the sky darkened.

Anyway, a layer mask and the gradient tool is basically a software ND grad. filter. Super easy to use, and is one of the quickest ways to fix exposure in a section of an image. Don't forget that you can start the gradient anywhere (even off of the canvas) and bring it in at any angle. Helpful for shooting indoors if you have a corner of a frame underexposed.

[Photosbykev]

Looking at the blue gradiant across the sky I suspect this is shot with a polarising filter rather than a grad. The sky and foreground light levels would be similar without a grad ND.

But in general a grad ND filter is the way to go to balance the exposure between sky and foreground. The polariser would boost the contrast and colour saturation on the brightly coloured huts.

[BCampbell]

I'd be surprised if there were any filters used for the shot itself. It's a stock photo, it was probably all done in post, probably in five minutes.

But yes, an ND grad. filter is great for lanscape shooting; in fact, sometimes more than one (say, you have a reflection of the sky in a lake). And the drop-in filters are better than screw-on. But, absent using the filters to get it right in-camera, multiple exposures from RAW and layer masking is a free way to fix these problems.

[compleks]

Thanks for the replies everyone.