Fixing underexposure in camera?

[bitoflaurie]

Hello folks,

Just got my first DSLR camera for Christmas, and went on a road trip to Death Valley National Park to test it out. There was a good chance of rain, and I was up early to catch the morning light so I was hoping for some interesting content to shoot. I didn't find as much dramatic cloud as I had hoped, but I managed to give my camera a good try.

Problem is - every one of my shots came out underexposed. I was able to fix it in iPhoto (didn't bother with PhotoShop, although I do have it), but I was wondering what are some techniques I can use to reduce the chance of underexposure and/or noise in camera instead of during post-processing? Other critique of composition etc is also welcome.

Thanks!

See the post-processed version of the below picture on Flickr

Camera: Canon EOS Rebel T1i
Focal Length: 250
Aperture: f/5.6
Shutter speed: 1/250

[dcclark]

Easiest recommendation I have is to know your equipment. You will learn about when it is prone to underexposure -- for example, yours seems like it may underexpose in very bright but uniform scenes (such as your example). Then, when you're in that situation, dial in some exposure compensation -- maybe +1/3 or +2/3 stop.

Then, check it out on your screen. Use a histogram (which your Rebel can show quite easily) and see if it's shifted towards the left. If it is, dial in more compensation and re-shoot.

Learning how your equipment reacts in different lighting situations is essential.

[wulf]

As dcclark suggests, do check your results as you go using the LCD screen. The histogram view is an invaluable tool.

To get the kind of results you ended up with, you may still need to work on developing the shot in your digital darkroom. You have boosted contrast and colour - it might be possible to do this in camera but then you would affect other shots which might need a different treatment.

As far as critique goes, I think you should submit your finished photo for consideration (perhaps add it in a reply below). The above is pretty flat and boring but the one on Flickr looks like it brings out more of your vision of the scene.

Wulf

[kencaleno]

With camera on tripod, A/AV mode, Matrix/evaluative/multi-segment metering mode, exposure compensation at 0-0 and a scene with all tones:

set Exposure compensation (+/-) at +1 take a shot

Now in 1/3 (0.3) increments adjust exposure compensation and take a shot, all the way to -1, giving you seven images.

load these into imaging programme and select the image with best detail in shadows and highlights.

This setting will be your standard, set this on your camera, and you will never need to do this again - your camera will be calibrated for optimum exposure.
This is baseline, so if shot looks too dark or light, in certain conditions, just adjust (+/-) to suit.

Ken

[Jamie Hibbert]

Are you, by any chance shooting in RAW??

[dcclark]

Originally Posted by Jamie Hibbert

Are you, by any chance shooting in RAW??

You can only "push" the exposure in a RAW file so far without consequences. Shooting in RAW is no replacement for properly understanding your scene and your equipment.

[bitoflaurie]

@dcclark, @wulf - Thanks for the suggestion on using the histogram. @dcclark, you mentioned that if the histogram has shifted to the left, it is probably underexposed. Would you recommend any specific tutorials that cover the art of reading histograms?

@kencaleno - I am most definitely putting your suggestion on my to-do list for my next trip. I am looking forward to seeing what comes of it.

I didn't realize that a camera can react uniquely to different situations even after I control the aperture and white balance. I am including the processed version of the picture below - I'd welcome your critique on it, including anything I ought to have fixed in camera. A larger version is available on flickr.

Thanks much!

[wulf]

The two things I look at and think "what are the options?" are:

1. The bushes near the bottom right. Could they be better positioned further into the frame as they are very dark and thus carry a lot of visual weight.

2. Is the sky necessary and are the hills truncated in the right place? The sky is completely blown out but does perhaps give a sense of space.

I love the subtle colours and textures of the dunes though - those have come up looking marvellous.

Wulf

[Jamie Hibbert]

Originally Posted by dcclark

You can only "push" the exposure in a RAW file so far without consequences. Shooting in RAW is no replacement for properly understanding your scene and your equipment.

I realise that - I wondered if the images were looking less saturated because he was viewing them on the LCD with a pre set, however the images were being saved as RAW images.