Shadow Problems in Cityscapes

[LenDog]

I have problems with shadows in in my city street/scape shots. I live in Europe, plenty of tall buildings and narrow streets (yet one my favorite subjects), so the shadows are everywhere. I know I can change perspective (but some shadow is always there to be dealt with) and I can do a lot to reduce the shadows (and/or the blowout) in PP. I'm trying to learn what I can do with in-camera processing that would improve the original photograph and at least give PP a better picture to work with. A typical example is attached. Thanks in advance for your advice and comments.

EXIF Data
Date Taken: 5 Sep 09
Camera: Sony DSLR-A330
Lens Focal Length: 18mm
35mm Equivalent Focal Length: 27mm
Shutter Speed: 1/60 sec
F Number: F16.0
Exposure Correction Value: +0.0EV
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Metering Mode: Multi-segment
ISO: 200
White Balance: Daylight (0)
Flash: Not used
D-Range Optimizer: Standard

[dcclark]

You've discovered one of the "features" of digital cameras -- they see shadows darker, and hilights lighter, than the human eye. We see these shadows as nothing much, but they turn them into muddled messes. The concept you're looking for is called "dynamic range", and it's a measure of the range (from bright to dark) that a camera can reproduce in one photo.

There are a few answers. One option is, if you have a newer Nikon, to use the "ADR" feature -- it automatically changes the ISO in various parts of the image, to give you a more natural look. You can turn it on or off, and usually adjust how much it affects the image, through the menus.

Another option is to shoot several shots at different exposures, and do an HDR-type reconstruction later. This would let you take the "properly" exposed shadows, and the "properly" exposed hilights, from different photos and merge them together.

[windrider86]

Per DPS guidelines. we do ask that you post your exif information. It could prove to be vital information if we know what your camera was set on!

[LenDog]

Thanks dc, great advice and you pinpointed a camera function I obviously haven't learned much about, but will now.

windrider, I added the exif to the original post. I use photoshop elements 6 (came with the computer). I'm certain that program does not retain exif data unless the raw file format is compatible (mine is not). Any suggestions ref keeping my exif intact would be greatly appreciated.

[B..]

Originally Posted by dcclark

You've discovered one of the "features" of digital cameras -- they see shadows darker, and hilights lighter, than the human eye.

What ?!?!?!?

Digital cameras vs. human eye vs. film cameras ...

This could be some good info!!! 'Splain, pleeeeease ... (I own one of each of them)!!!

My specific wonder is, how is this different from any camera (film or digital) depending on what film you have loaded or what your digital settings are ...

[dcclark]

OK, here's the idea. The human brain is pretty amazing, and has some excellent image processing abilities. We can see a HUGE range of brightness in a single scene -- very dim through very bright -- and see details in all of it. Our eyes can selectively pull out details in certain parts, ignore others, etc. It's great.

But, cameras are not like this. Both digital and film cameras can only "see" a limited dynamic range -- which is the name for the range of brightness values. The result is that things you and I see as "normal" come out very dark or very bright, because the scene had too broad of a dynamic range, and the camera couldn't capture it.

To solve this, you mainly need to learn to "see" like your camera -- get used to when the dynamic range of a scene is too broad. Shooting in raw can supposedly let you bring out a little bit more range, but I've never really seen a big enough difference. Using filters to absorb light in some areas, can reduce the range and make things look better. Using modern Nikons with ADR, you can bring out some shadows.

But overall, dynamic range is something we just need to understand. It's part of the art.

[sybren]

I'd go for the HDR approach. Take multiple pictures at different exposures and use Hugin to blend them into one natural looking picture.

[LenDog]

I agree that HDR is probably the best way to solve this problem if you seriously want to fix it. I took test shots this morning and the only notable effect of higher DR settings was when the difference between shadow and light was blended (less distinct than in the posted photo). PP in the raw program allows for some DR adjustment beyond the in camera processing, but still a minimal difference. Then again, I'm using a Sony so the Nikon referenced by dc may have a more effective dynamic range. Regardless, DR is important to understand and now I know thanks to dc's reply.

[Free]

What about waiting until it's a bit overcast to take the photo?

[LenDog]

Originally Posted by Free

What about waiting until it's a bit overcast to take the photo?

I take most of my photos when I travel. I don't have a lot of choice regarding when I travel and none about the weather when I do. Trying to learn how to deal with the conditions as they exist.