|
|||
|
Hello, I'm a self admitting wanna-be photographer newbie and one of my main problems I'm trying to work on is getting a bit better with skies.
I'm looking for a bit of advice on how to not have them be so blown out. This day the sky was overcast, but there is still no detail of the clouds. Had it been a clear blue sky I would still have a white sky picture. Ideally I would like to not have a lot of post processing to do, especially since I haven't quite jumped on the HDR bandwagon just yet. Any comments and critique are welcomed! ![]() Climatron at festival by StarsShadow, on Flickr EXIF data Canon T2i 1/250 f/4.5 23mm 100 ISO (Let me know if there are any other details I need) -Raina |
|
||||
|
One basic rule about photography is that sunlit skies (even filtered skies) and shadows don't play nicely on a digital camera sensor. When your sky is well exposed, the ground below is likely to be underexposed. And if your ground level subject is well exposed, your sky will be blown out. Like you have here. Some people use GND filters to accommodate this problem (I don't), and others use the computer to blend two (or more) images where each part is well exposed. There are some good tutorials on blending images in Photoshop or GIMP. And, you can also use Photomatix to automatically blend different exposures to get what you're looking for, without necessarily resorting to HDR.
Also, if you have overcast skies, you're likely not going to get detail out of them no matter what you do. Sometimes you just don't have the atmospheric conditions to pull it off.
__________________
Photoblog Subscribe here! Flickr 500px In landscape photography, when you shoot is more important than where you shoot. |
|
||||
|
I mostly shoot near sunset, use a 2 stop graduated ND filter and I still have problems with blown out skies sometimes. I've been blending the exposures to compensate for that. If you're shooting in the day, you're going to constantly be battling dark foregrounds and blown out skies. I'm thinking of getting a 3 stop ND grad. Navcom says he uses that one all the time. That way, you are altering the light before it hits your camera, not altering the pixels in the image you have already taken.
Also, I'm curious why you used such a large aperture for a scene that looks like you would want to maximize your DOF.
__________________
GREG - Canon XS with 18-55 kit flickr flickriver My 500px "You can't be young forever, but you can always be immature." - Larry Andersen. |
|
||||
|
If you are worried about taking multiple shots for HDR, you can try doing RAW, take 1 nice shot in RAW then do your HDR from that 1 RAW file. Do a search in this website, there is an article written by the nice photographers from this website.
__________________
Not A Photographer, Not Yet. Flickr Photostream Olympus OMD EM5 9-18mm 40-150mm 12-50mm Hokkaido Gallery Egypt Gallery |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Each day we send out a quick email to thousands of DPS readers to notify them of updates. This email is just short excerpt of the first few lines of our latest post with a link if you want to read it all. You can unsubscribe from this this service at any time.
This service is provided by a third party (Feedburner) and you can subscribe to it by leaving your email address in the following field and confirming your subscription when you get an email asking you to do so.
Enter your email address for
Daily Updates:
For those wanting a weekly summary of what happens on this site this free email newsletter is probably your best option. It includes a summary of the tips posted to the site each week. This newsletter is subscribed to by over 25000 readers (many who also subscribe to the other options above) - come join the community!
To subscribe to this weekly newsletter simply add your email address to the following field and then follow the confirmation prompts. You will be able to unsubscribe at any time.
Enter your email address for
Free Weekly Newsletter: