What Canon Lens should I buy?

[awc]

Hi I have a Canon EOS 1000D I think it is called a rebel in some places. I got the twin lens kit = EF-S 18- 55mm and EF 75 - 300mm neither have an image stabiliser. I rarely use the 75-300 because I find I get a lot of camera shake (not sure if IS would help), I hardly ever take photos with a tripod, I also find that I will want to take a photo close up and then the next one I want to zoom in and if I have the 75 - 300mm lens on it is too close and I can't get the shot and so i have change to my little lens. I am going to the Maldives in a few weeks and I am wondering if anyone has any advice for a lens purchase. I'd love to have something that allows me to do the two things together (18 -300mm) It would be great to have the versatility without having to carry two lenses overseas and to be able to take photos close up and far away without camera shake etc. Does such a thing exist?
A

[jpsilva206]

AF18-270mm/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical (IF) Macro Our ultimate all-in-one lens features Tamron VC image stabilizer to reduce camera shake for blur-free pictures.
its not canon but its what you want.

[OsmosisStudios]

These are called Superzoom lenses. Canon does make one, but it's only 18-200. That being said, though the lenses exist, they're hardly ideal. They do make some significant compromises in image quality and useability to get that range.

[awc]

Thanks
I've seen some people using Tamron lenses on their canons.

I checked out the canon site - and found the 18-200 you mention - there is also a 18-135 do you think that would also mean making compromises in quality as it doesn't zoom as far? Also what is the difference between a standard zoom lens and a telephoto zoom lens.

I'm only just starting out and take photos for my own personal enjoyment - so they don't have to be perfect. In saying that though it is disappointing when you get back from a holiday with a bunch of blurry photos. Maybe I should just pack my 18 - 55mm. I'm not that keen on taking heaps of equipment but I know that there will be some great photo opportunities at the maldives! Hmmm - it would be great to be able to try these lenses out somewhere.
Thanks

[inkista]

About using the 75-300 III --it is possible to get shots without camera shake. But you need to know what situations will let you use it. The problem with the 75-300 III is that it's a slow lens. The maximum aperture on the lens is f/4-f/5.6. That means @75mm, the widest you can open it is f/4. And @300mm, the widest you can open it is f/5.6. All these lenses you're looking at have the same restriction.

The rule of thumb for eliminating camera shake while handholding is to use a shutter speed of 1/focal_length or faster. So, with a 50mm lens, that means 1/50s or faster. But with a 300mm lens, that means 1/300s or faster. Getting to 1/300s with f/5.6 often means you need to use a very high iso setting (800 or 1600), and probably shooting outside in relatively bright sunlight. This is possible. In addition, the 75-300 sharpens considerably if you stop down to f/8, which limits you one stop more. But within those limitations, this lens can get you good sharp pics.



As for the lens switch issue, have you considered just running backwards? I often do that with my EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, or my EF 135 f/2L USM. Shooting with primes is my main form of exercise.

Personally, I think you just need to get used to the lenses you have, or that if you do want to extend the zoom range of your kit, that you should probably be considering something more like the EF-S 17-85, or the newly introduced EF-S 15-85 IS or EF-S 18-135 IS, instead. Or thinking from the other end, and replacing your 75-300 III with the EF-S 55-250 IS instead.

As long as your subject matter is mostly still, IS can help you out with the camera shake issue. But IS won't be doing a damn thing to help you freeze subject motion.

Personally, I think your money is best spent on a $100 EF 50mm f/1.8 II, just so you can see what a fast prime can do for you, and you'll have some handholding capability for lower light situations. Right now all you have are relatively slower lenses. Having f/1.8 as your maximum aperture opens up a whole new range of situations you can shoot in.

[Woody]

Hello AWC,

I really cannot understand if you bought your camera in Australia why you did not receive IS lenses as part of the twin lens kit.

Never the less I have a non stabilised 100-300 lens and it works a treat. You need to ensure that your shutter speed is up (at least above 1/60) and perhaps up the ISo to 200 or higher if you cannot get the shutter speed higher.

Are you shooting in AV? If you do this then you can play with aperatue settings.

Looking for a new lens, then try a 50mm f1.8. I just love mine and shoot indoors, portraits and landscapes.

Picasa Web Albums - jamwood - Fathers Day 2009

I took the above on Fathersday with my 450D and 50mm lens.

[LoveDSLR]

Such a lens does exist. You can get a Canon 18-200 IS or Tamron 18-270 VC superzoom--one lens does it all. Both have image stabilization to avoid camera shakes too.

Don't expect them to match image quality from a bag of lenses or pro gears. Just treat a superzoom as a versatile walkabout/vacation lens.

I recommend practice with your new lens first and try the technique of auto focus with the center focusing point only.