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You need to buy a hardware calibrator. A few people are satisfied with making adjustments by eye on quality monitors, but the path to success for just about everyone involves a hardware calibrator.
In general, the less expensive the LCD monitor, the more expensive the calibrator will need to be to get good results. The inexpensive calibrators tend to have a lot of trouble with inexpensive TN-type LCD monitors. Hardware calibration involves three separate parts:
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I agree with harware calibration being your best choice. An inexpensive one like the Spyder (basic) is probably good enough....LCD's only (generally) have basic adjustments available.
The other issue is probably the software you are using to view the images (if RAW format). You'll probably need to set up a "camera profile" in you default settings/preferences. |
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I used a spyer2 on mh HP 22" LCD with great results.
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Nikon D700, D300, D5000, NIKON GLASS 85mm F/1.8 D, 105mm f/2.8 Micro AF-S VR, 70-200 AF-S VR f/2.8, 28-300 AF-S VRII,10.5mm Fisheye, 24-70 AF-S f/2.8, TC-20E II AF-S, Sigma 12-24 HSM, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM, Sigma 150-500 OS, 2 SB-600 Speedlights, Manfrotto 190MF3 tripod & 322RC2 ball grip head. - NJ, USA Flickr Photobucket Ok to edit and repost my shots on DPS forums |
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I have a somewhat similar problem: photos look great on my camera's LCD, then I move them into my computer and they look dark and skintones look burned, I fixed it but then came the printing part (wich was the reason my monitor was calibrated that way in the first place) and the photos came out only slightly dark but my other prints (my homeworks for university.. Im a graphic design student) came out really dark.
So now I guess im stuck pretty much it the same problem you have; any advice? (Im new here so forgive me if I'm supposed to open a new thread or it's not the right place to post this) |
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I suspect that the issue you're having with the images on your computer not looking as nice as they do when you view them on the camera could be down to your camera showing you a compressed-to-tiny Jepg which is embedded withing the RAW image file. I know some cameras do that, although I don't know if they all do it - it'd make sense if they did though.
As for calibration - I'm using a Spyder 2, and for the amount it cost, I'm pretty pleased. I use it to calibrate a 19" Iiyama CRT monitor (which is about to be replaced with an Iiyama LCD), with great results, and I just used it to calibrate the LCD screen on my lappy, and that also made a noticeable (and pleasing) difference. I'd thought that the monitor on the new lappy was pretty good for colour tones and balance and stuff, but now I realise how far off I was. Russ.
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I shoot Canon, and use Elinchrom lights. My Flickr Page - feel free to leave comments |
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This is the Color Management part of Digital Imaging.
First, you need to calibrate the screen to a known standard. The most accurate way is to use a hardware calibrator (colorimeter). The same apply to printers and scanners. For the camera, you need to take a photo of the MacBeth color chart and white & black objects, grayscale/card etc. Then adjust it in post processing against the known color values of the real things. The result will be the adjustments needed for your camera. The Gretag Macbeth ColorMunki Photo is becoming popular because it is a monitor/printer calibrator combo. BTW, I use Datacolor Spyder 3 Elite for monitor and PrintFIX Pro for printers. |
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Pssssst you can buy the spyder basic from Amazon for $59 and google spyder pro and download the pro version software which uses the exact same hardware. Just thought I would tell you.
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2-Canon 5D's & 1- Canon XTi 50mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8, 18-55mm f/3.5 Kit Lenses, Canon EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 III To see more of my photos check out my flickr page: flickr WV KY OH DPS Photography Group JOIN NOW!!! |
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And here's the suck part of calibration....
Every other web viewer out there without a calibrated screen is NOT seeing your images the way they were meant to be seen... And you are not seeing their pictures correctly either. That's what makes me question giving advice on color/exposure issues in the critique forums. |
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Quote:
The spyder 3 pro can be upgraded to spyder3 elite. |
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