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I manual focus a lot but only with my old MF lenses. Trying to manual focus a camera and lens that's built for auto-focusing is a pain.
Ken mentioned choosing the right process for the shot but you also have to choose the right process for the tool. Modern DLSR's and lenses are designed to be auto focused. They removed the split prism focusing aid from focusing screens to allow a clearer view but this also makes manually focusing more difficult. They shortened the focus throw in lenses to speed up AF but it also sacrifices precision during MF. The smooth damped feel of a MF focusing ring is also very hard to achieve with a focus ring that is now attached to a set of gears. It all adds up to a less than satisfactory manual focusing experience. I understand that it is necessary in certain situations, but I wouldn't want it to be my normal modus operandi. This is why I ended up modifying my camera when I started using more manual focus lenses (added a split prism focusing screen). Make my tool fit the process.
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flickr Why I Like Photographs "It's more expensive, but it lets me adjust really specific settings that most people don't notice or think about." - Abed |
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Only time I use manual focus is when it's too dark for autofocus to work, or when I want a play at second base when shooting from the 1st base photo well. Good write up Ken
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url:www.jimbryantphotography.com http://pa.photoshelter.com/c/jimbryant http://jimbryantphotography.blogspot.com/ (3) EOS1D MKIIs', (1) EOS1Ds MKII, 14mmf2.8, 16-35mmf2.8, 28-70mmf2.8, 70-200mm f2.8, 300mm f2.8 and a 400mmf2.8. |
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It always feels a little intimidating answering anything after Ken has(dPS bible) but I prefer manual . In the early days I would come home and see that auto had decided that something other than what I wanted had become the subject of my image aaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!! So I started to do it myself .
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradzo66/ I'm as honest as the day is long , the longer the daylight the less I do wrong !! |
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I have tried using manual focus many times, especially when photographing birds which are usually behind a branch or piece of grass that my camera likes to focus on instead of the bird.
My problem is that even though my viewfinder shows the subject relatively sharp, the end result is usually blurry. One example can be found here and more examples at the bottom of thisblog. I see the advantage of using manual focus, but it just doesn't come out very sharp.
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My Camera Canon Rebel T1i - Full Equipment List My Photo Blog http://www.JonathanZenor.com |
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Anyway, I use AF most of the time. Especially with my 7D the AF is fast and precise, and AF tracking is very much improved (coming from a 350D). As for shots as macro and landscape, where my camera is on a tripod and the subject is stationary I use MF via live view, by zooming in 10x on the part I want to focus on. That gives me exceptional sharpness exactly where I want it to be.
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Website: http://stuvel.eu/ Gear: All Canon: EOS 7D • EOS 350D • 10-22mm F/3.5-4.4 USM • 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM • 70-300mm F/4-5.6 IS USM • 85mm F/1.8 USM • 60mm F/2.8 USM Macro • Speedlite 580EXII, 430EX and 430EXII |
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Mostly auto, unless I'm shooting action; at times, I'll pre-manual focus, keep it there and shoot continuous as the whatever passes the whatever-in-focus. Aside from that and dark places... it's auto focus.
I sincerely did not like using manual focus when shooting weddings last time, I can tell you. |
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All of my AF lenses focus at max aperture, then stop down to take the shot (speed of focus is one of the reasons I went for f2.8 over f4 for my 70-200). I can't see, in that case, how being stopped down will have any impact on "visibility" for focus points.
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Neil www.hargreavesphotography.com.au | Twitter | Blog | email Canon 5D2 | Canon 50D | Canon 10D 17-40L | 24-70L | 35L | 70-200 f/2.8L IS | 100L Macro IS | 135L | 85/1.8 | Sigma 50/1.4 | Pocketwizards & other lighting stuff |
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