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I would recommend never using Auto ISO. That's one of the biggest image quality changing sides of the exposure triangle that Im usually not willing to mess with.
That being said, the reason for that is that the D90 is newer than both the 80 and 40/x, so it has faster and more pwoerful programming and processing to choose those kinds of things.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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I almost always use auto ISO (set to 200 ISO "preferred") and Aperture Mode.
I would guess the biggest issue you are seeing is a difference in metering. I would check you have the D40 set the same as our D90 for metering pattern, or just set it to spot metering... |
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There are two different "auto ISO" variants in the D90 -- Nikon's standard Auto ISO, which bumps up your ISO when you go below a certain shutter speed, and the ADR (forget the meaning) which locally increases the ISO to help avoid underexposed portions of the image. The ADR is much more advanced than Auto ISO, and can be adjusted to various levels of strength.
I always have Auto ISO on, unless I'm in a situation where long exposures are just fine -- with a VR lens, I set my minimum shutter speed to about 1/15 and max ISO to about 800 -- which rarely happens in most situations.
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David Clark Photography, project 365 photo blog, flickr. It is OK to edit and repost my photos on the DPS forums only. |
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ADR is "Adaptive Dynamic Range"....I usually have it set to "normal". In-camera it's called Active D-Lighting.
As I said, I usually have it on, but I also find that it can tend to make some high contrast scenes "flat" so it's not always a good thing. The same results can be achieved in post if you don't want to take the risk. |
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I changed my D90 for some night shots the other day, i then proceeded to take a pile of underexposed rubbish in low light the following day! then it clicked!
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