Curiosity

[Jim Poor]

That explains a lot. No photo is going to stand up to that heavy of a crop.

You've got some Chromatic Aberration in the high contrast areas and you missed the focus by just a hair (should be on the eye). Aside from that, it's not all that bad really.
I think you're just expecting too much in terms of how far you can crop in.

BTW, the bird is a Great Blue Heron.

[Optikal iLLusion]

Originally Posted by Jim Poor

That explains a lot. No photo is going to stand up to that heavy of a crop.

You've got some Chromatic Aberration in the high contrast areas and you missed the focus by just a hair (should be on the eye). Aside from that, it's not all that bad really.
I think you're just expecting too much in terms of how far you can crop in.

BTW, the bird is a Great Blue Heron.

Thank you for your input. I wouldn't actually crop the shot like that. I just was just checking for sharpness and noticed the weird halo around it and thought I'd see what i could find out about the cause of it. It sat there for long enough so I put the camera on my tripod to see if i could get a better focus and I still got the same result. That's when I decided on my own that it could have something to do with lens quality partially. (I think I may have said something about that previously but anywho...)

Thanks again for your help.

[inkista]

I have the 75-300 III. I eventually replaced it with the EF 400mm f/5.6L USM.

One really basic thing to keep in mind with that lens is that stopping down to f/8 helps A LOT with the softness. Won't make it ideal, but 300mm and f/5.6 is definitely a weak spot for that lens. Try backing off from 300mm a little bit. Try stopping down into the f/8-f/16 range. That may also help with the fringing you get on blown highlights, although avoiding blown highlights is pretty much the only way to get around it.

Obviously, trying to stop down into f/8-f/16 and keeping the shutter speed above 1/300s (or 1/500s if you do the crop factor thing), is going to require higher iso levels. I generally find myself at iso 800 when I'm birding, even on sunny days.

The one thing that lens will teach you is how to eke out every tiny bit of performance you possibly can from a lens.

[Optikal iLLusion]

Originally Posted by inkista

I have the 75-300 III. I eventually replaced it with the EF 400mm f/5.6L USM.

One really basic thing to keep in mind with that lens is that stopping down to f/8 helps A LOT with the softness. Won't make it ideal, but 300mm and f/5.6 is definitely a weak spot for that lens. Try backing off from 300mm a little bit. Try stopping down into the f/8-f/16 range. That may also help with the fringing you get on blown highlights, although avoiding blown highlights is pretty much the only way to get around it.

Obviously, trying to stop down into f/8-f/16 and keeping the shutter speed above 1/300s (or 1/500s if you do the crop factor thing), is going to require higher iso levels. I generally find myself at iso 800 when I'm birding, even on sunny days.

The one thing that lens will teach you is how to eke out every tiny bit of performance you possibly can from a lens.

I'll be practicing with it when ever I get the chance. I'm sure you don't have that issue nearly as often with that fancy L lens do you?

[Jim Bryant]

Normally, if folks are in a public setting, it's called public domaine, and you are allowed to take pictures of them. However, in this day and age, some get upset about their rights. Like I said... their rights stop at the end of their yard. One cannot go onto someones property to take photos without permission, however, they don't own the sidewalk of street. Most of the time (after I take the photos) I approach them, show what I've captured and offer to send them a jpg. That's normally works!

[Optikal iLLusion]

Originally Posted by Jim Bryant

Normally, if folks are in a public setting, it's called public domaine, and you are allowed to take pictures of them. However, in this day and age, some get upset about their rights. Like I said... their rights stop at the end of their yard. One cannot go onto someones property to take photos without permission, however, they don't own the sidewalk of street. Most of the time (after I take the photos) I approach them, show what I've captured and offer to send them a jpg. That's normally works!

I like your take on that subject lol. If someone did that for me (as long as the shot was good.. or even if it wasnt) I'd be ok with someone sending me a picture like that. I think candid shots are great.

[ArmySoldier777]

Originally Posted by Jim Bryant

Normally, if folks are in a public setting, it's called public domaine, and you are allowed to take pictures of them. However, in this day and age, some get upset about their rights. Like I said... their rights stop at the end of their yard. One cannot go onto someones property to take photos without permission, however, they don't own the sidewalk of street. Most of the time (after I take the photos) I approach them, show what I've captured and offer to send them a jpg. That's normally works!

Sounds like a great way to promote your self as a photographer too! But I'm sure Jim already knew that lol .

[inkista]

Originally Posted by Optikal iLLusion

I'll be practicing with it when ever I get the chance. I'm sure you don't have that issue nearly as often with that fancy L lens do you?

Actually, I run into the I-have-to-be-at-iso 800/1600 thing all the time. And the fringing on blown highlights. But yes, the L is pretty darn sharp wide open at f/5.6, and tons faster on the autofocus than the 75-300 III. Also takes a TC much better. But then, it is a prime.

I run backwards and swear a lot when I'm at the zoo with it, though. Which is why I still have the 75-300 III.

Originally Posted by Jim Bryant

Normally, if folks are in a public setting, it's called public domaine, ...

Er... No. It's not. "Public domain" is any piece of intellectual property where copyright law has expired or doesn't apply, and everybody can copy it at will, in toto, as they please.